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AK 1106 rework ...

Started by westcott, November 07, 2011, 09:59:01

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westcott

Sorry for the white, early model indicators,they can be replaced by the original ones in a minute.
   
   This is the working space I'm limited to, it's just a universal concrete garage module 2.5 by 5.0 meters. The blue Royal Mail bag is storage for cleaning rags :-)
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

My plans to replace the t-dash by the straight one require the use of the Ford column instead of the Rover unit. Just one thing is not clear for me, the intermediate steering shaft between column and steering rack.
   
   Was it a Ford production part or a fabricated one?
   
   Who has some pics of the installed shaft?
   
   Westcott
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

French Frie

beautiful engine, Uwe ! is it the MSD EFI "4 barrels -like" injection ? any feedback on it ?
   
   regarding the engine, did you start from scratch, or was the short engine from AK1106 ? if so ; you changed the water pump and serpentine pulley system (what is the brand of the new one) ?  thanks !
   
   and sorry, no clue for the steering shaft...
   
   Olivier

westcott

Olivier,
   pulleys are from March Performance, water pump is aftermarket Edelbrock, thermostat housing and heater tube fittings are from Performance Stainless Steel. The engine is based on a Keith Craft shortblock build to my specs. All tubes are silicon tubes from a race shop.
   
   The engine is topped by a MSD Atomic throttle body injection. Feedback on this system will be delivered as soon as possible but not before end of July.
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

French Frie

thanks Uwe... the Atomic system seems interesting, as it is supposed to be more trouble free than 8 stacks injection, and preserves the 4 barrels look. it was on my wish list, but is quite pricey (vs a trad carb) and has not a lot of feedback yet ! So, your experience will be interesting...

French Frie

PS: fitting video here : http://www.atomicefi.com/AtomicInstallationVideo.aspx... as Lambda sensors are already fitted, as well as an adequate EFI fuel line, the fitting would be even easier on a MKIV !

westcott

You can choose between the full system and the system without fuel kit. What you need without fuel kit is a complete fuel system with adequate EFI Fuel feed(3/8") and return line plus an adjustable pressure regulator to adjust the pressure to the required 45 PSI.
   
   If you decide or need to go returnless you need to buy the full kit because of the pulsed fuel pump required for this case.
   
   You can buy the basic kit for around 1900 USD or the same value in Euro from Gooze Garage in the Netherlands which is one of two official MSD dealers in continental Europe.
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

French Frie

very interesting ! as you're a skilled engineer, do you assume it would produce more power than a traditional carbed solution ?
   
   did you plugged the wideband O2 sensor of the kit, and if so, was it a direct replacement of the MKIV one ? did you left the other unplugged ?
   
   last but not least, is your distributor "matched" to this system, or will you have to run a CDI box (6AL like) ? is your camshaft a hydraulic roller one ?
   
   sorry for all these questions, but it's very intersting for me !

westcott

The system has one O2 sensor and i will place it to the side which is better to reach with the wiring harness, the other opening will be closed by special plugs available on the market.
   
   The main things I'm expecting from the system is getting rid of re jetting a carb to match it to the engine what i did in a excessive way with my last engine projects FE and Clevelands. The programming should also be much easier because of the self learning ECU(hopefully).
   
   The initial fuel map will be created by the ECU after you answered the basic inputs about idle rpm, target afr, cam characteristics and so on. The rest of fine tuning will be done by the ECU during driving in different conditions. So you have to drive it as much as possible to give a mass of different information to it :-)
   
   I'm expecting not a big step in performance gain, just better drivability and throttle response in all rpm ranges and a bit better fuel consumption.
   
   Don't forget, I had a carburetted engine with catalyst....it was not a performance thing, in no way and I wanted to keep the carb look.
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

During the last few weeks I installed the exhaust system with two catalytic absorbers and the 4 silencers normally included in a MK IV with dual rear exhaust.
   
   The clutch system is changed to hydraulic actuation by the following steps.
   
   1. Installing a CNC Inc. slave cylinder with bracket to the side of the T5
   2. Replace the cable clutch pedal by a pedal from a 90s Mondeo
   3. Installed a 3/4 inch Girling master cylinder with integrated tank, extended/replaced the Girling push rod by a Ford Transid pushrod mounted to the original position.
   The cutouts and holes for the cylinder are prepared by the company in the front metal reinforcement inside the drivers footbox. I just had to drill the GRP of the foot boxes
   4. Used Dash 4 reusable aluminum fittings for brake or clutch lines and stainless braided teflon tube
   
   All fits together but it s still not filled with fluid, a travel stop for the pedal has to be made too.
   
   All the clutch system changes are done by clipping or screwing parts together. Fabrication is needed for the travel stop and eventually the pushrod.
   
   I'll keep you updated.
   
   Westcott
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

The head light functions on my car did not work when I bought it. Now I'm in the middle of wiring work and I wonder if the head light function is dependent from the ignition switch position or not.
   
   Actual it is not so you can switch to dipped/low beam  without turning the ignition switch.
   
   I would expect that the headlights cut off automatically if you turn the ignition switch into the off position. How is it in your cars with the T-dash?
   
   Thanks, Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

wenzeh

AK 1005 has also no connection to ignition switch for light function, except beam in permanent function, it would only work when engine is running.

MkIV Lux

on my Mk IV (AKL 1417) with T-dash manufactured 1993 for a German customer all light functions (except direction indicators) are independent from the ignition key switch. Low and high beam can be switched without key.

westcott

Hmmmm,
   
   I should have looked it up in the manual....
   
   It's written there that the headlight functions are independent from the ignition switch.
   
   Thanks for the answers.
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

Flyinghorse

Proof you must be an engineer.
   
   Graham