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AK 1106 rework ...

Started by westcott, November 07, 2011, 09:59:01

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westcott

After my introduction i promised the rework of AK 1106 and here we go.
   What i did so far:
   - Interior completely removed
   - Heating completely removed
   - Engine pulled
   - Transmission pulled
   - Windscreen is removed
   - Radiator removed
   - All front end panels removed
   - All exterior parts removed
   
   + The wheels are away for polishing just the outer rims, they will come back in the next 2 weeks
   + Quotes for interior leather and carpets are available, work will start in CW 51
   + Quote for body work and painting available, work will start in cw 47
   
   Westcott
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

#1
After inspecting the now visible framework at the front end I found the following: The vertical square support tube at the front inner fender is splitted...
Has someone else faced the same problem?
The side walls of the square tube are curved and not longer flat. It looks like the tube is cracked by inside pressure or is it just rusted from inside to outside ???
      
The tube itself is not bended, just has curved walls.
   
Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

First question to all MK IV gurus:
   I found the big control box in the passenger side foot box mounted inside to the top surface and i wonder what functions are implemented?
   Answers found in the www: PartNr. E5ZF-12B567-AA is a engine ECU for carbed Mustangs......The 1985 Mustangs,only the 5.0/5 speed manual versions,were supposed to come with a Two Speed Accessory Drive System,which used a twin accessory drive setup,controlled by a computer and electrical clutch,to let all the driven units,alt. A/C, PS, run at half speed under different conditions,to save HP and extra fuel mileage.
   The idea was withdrawn,before production. However,some cars got thru with all the wiring harness and the computer control box.
   
   What I can see is that the wiper motor connects directly to the box, is anything else controlled by the box???
   
   Second question:
   I removed all emissions devices in the engine bay.
   Will the wiring harness still work and the car operate according to ignition and other non engine bay related functions?
   
   I don't want to change the wiring because of a possible rebuilt to original specs in the future, just create a new engine harness with less connectors.
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

Who could post some pics of a heater installed in a straight dash car? Pics with and without carpet/covers would be highly appreciated.  I need to know how the air inlet and bowden cables are covered! Is the heater hardware the same a in the T-Dash cars?
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

SB7019

Uwe.
   
   I have sent you an e mail regarding the heater covers.

westcott

Peter,
   thanks, sent you a answer by mail via the forum.
   
   Good pics with all the information i needed, thanks !!
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

#6
O.K. the engine bay is empty, quality of the gel coat is quite good, nothing damaged, ready for cleaning and a new polished stainless cover after the car is painted.
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

#7
The interior is gone completely, the aluminum floor panels as well, some small rusty  pits on the frame, no big deal.
   
   The pits will be sanded out and painted with gloss epoxy paint.
   As anybody before, going the same route, I'm looking for the rubber bumpers for the hood.
    There are some general purpose rubber bumpers used for GM or Ford, has anybody found out what general purpose rubber bumper will fit the MK IV dimensions?
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

nikbj68

Hi Uwe, unfortunately we can`t see the photos without registering on the Deutsche forum!
   All the best with your project, and thanks for sharing your progress, Nik.

westcott

Hi Nik,
   
   I'm going to bring  up the photos tomorrow.
   
   Uwe
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

#10
The spare wheel set is back, the rims(normally brushed and covered by clear paint) have been polished a bit. Good enough for me. They must be cleaned before mounting in spring. The complete set of 5(incl. spare wheel) incl. Avon tires was about 800€. It's a lot of money just to have a spare set, but this allows me to keep the thing rolling during restoration and switch to shiny wheels as soon as the new engine will turn.
   
   
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

#11
A lot of things going parallel right now. The car is at the paint shop, the interior is away and the engine is dismantled.

Because the engine saw some water over a longer period I decided to bore it one size up. Machine work, cleaning, hot tanking, painting and new engine hardware in Germany is in total more or less the same as a new Keith Craft 331 short Block.

Therefore i ordered a 331 at KC. It will be topped by KC ported 165 AFRs and a slightly better cam will go in for a broad torque band and good vacuum to be drivable all day with some fun factor. The Weiand Stealth will provide good flow from idle up to 6000.
   
This is the final simulation result without going to the limit. For sure I have to cut 20-25% for real rear wheel numbers.
   
I'm going to convert the clutch to hydraulic actuation. The slave cylinder is a series 305 pusher from CNC Inc and attached to the side of the T5 with a powdercoated bracket. The primary cylinder will be choosen from my shelf.
   
Has someone replaced the Sierra pedal box by a different solution to get more leg room? I know that the early cars had different pedals.
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

westcott

A late Merry Christmas to You all.
   I'm looking for pictures of the harness attachment points on the substructure behind the bulkhaed. My car has the early harness layout, the static belt is attached to the rectangular subframe behind the seats. The upper point is near the outside shoulder, the lower point is outside as well located in the rocker subframe. The latch bow is screwed to brackets behind the tunnel rear end.
   
   I want to implement the automatic harnesses of the later models and need to know how the attachment points for the rolls look behind the bulhaed above the tunnel?
   
   Is the bow comming out of the top welded into the subframe under the rear top body or is it removable attached to the framework?
   
   Thanks,
   
   Westcott
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

ak 1240

Hi Uwe,
   
   i was the second owner of AK 1106. If you have some questions
   
   about 1106, you can send me an email.
   
   taxoffice@t-online.de
   
   Günther

westcott

All the parts for the engine assembly and the Keith Craft 331 shortblock arrived this week. Engine completion will start end of this week and should be finished middle of April. I will keep you informed and come up with more pics soon.
   
   The body is stripped and bare aluminum now, the paint preparation started, hopefully the car will be finally painted end of March.
   
   Westcott
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!