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Hi Nick,
I've tried the same seal from Vintage supplies and the problem is that the fit on the glass is too loose.
I suspect the same will be true of the Ebay version as well.
I would recommend going with the felt seal as a 1/8" x 1" felt seal is available from Woolies.
[url]https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1717-black-felt-strip/url]

PS. AE503's window frames are exactly the same section as yours and the felt seal was definitely the one fitted
originally in 1955.

This is the closest newly available "Terry" clip. The only real difference is the design change to a single rivet style
as the original double rivet clips often crack across the rivet holes.
The normal size for an AC starting handle is 22mm.
//https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252046159080?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.

I removed the original window channel material from AE503 so that the frames could be re-chromed.
It wasn't fitted with a preformed channel section but with a 3mm thick x 24mm wide strip of black felt.
I plan to refit new felt as per original as I couldn't find a U channel that was the correct size for the 10mm
x 11.5mm frame inside dimension, in combination with the 5mm thick glass.

I tried all the usual suspects but the nearest option that I found was this one, it's really for 6mm glass though.
//https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182259203994?hash=item2a6f7ebf9a:g:-

Regards, Luke.

Sorry about that, I thought this was the same as the Vintage Car Parts lock, which is definitely the correct pattern.
I have bought both boot & bonnet latches from them in the past & they are a very close match to the original units.

Moss Motors Part No. 470-455
MG Midget/Austin Healey Sprite trunk latch.

Regards, Luke.

Speedograph Richfield Ltd in Nottingham have AC cables listed on their website under control cables.

Hi Robin.
The variations within the different classifications is what I was getting at.
For example nowadays if you take two C2 class bearings from different manufacturers one may have more play than the other.
like many other items now, you have to be very careful when selecting components. it's not something that happened in the past
when using good quality bearings like SKF or Koyo.

You'll need a hub puller to separate the hub from the shaft.
This can take a considerable amount of force, depending on how well or not the taper on shaft is mated to the hub.
I use this style of puller.[url]https://www.orsonequipment.co.uk/product/hub-puller-type-42-8-tpi-k021-8//url]

It sounds like play in the bearing but could also be wear in the upright, on the OD of the inner bearing.
The only way to know for sure what's going on is to remove the hub, half shaft & bearings.
It's now seems difficult to find new rear hub bearings that don't have a small amount of axial play.
A friend of mine recently had to go through several brands of bearing before finding an acceptable pair.
Although all the bearings were specified to be of the same internal clearance, in reality they all showed different degrees of play.

No need for any phasing, the shafts are independent of each other via the action of the differential.

The lower shaft is correct. Just undo the retainer on the incorrect shaft, slide apart and realign it.
A lot of odd things can happen to a car that's nearly six decades old! :)

The half shaft yokes should be in line with each other. One half of the shaft is normally marked with an arrow and the other yoke has a small notch to show the correct alignment.
As Chris said, incorrect alignment can be a cause of driveline vibration.

Regards, Luke.

The closest match that I've found to the original Ford dark blue/green paint is RAL 6005 Moss Green.
I've also seen an original 2.6 block in a lighter turquoise green but couldn't be sure that it hadn't been
repainted sometime in the last fifty years. Red & American Ford engine blue are not correct in my opinion.

Regards,Luke.

The three unrestored original cars that I've worked on had bitumen based underseal on the wheel side of the front wheel boxes.
All of the floors boot included were just bare ali. I've observed that many restored cars seem to have no coating on the front wheel boxes
so can only assume that they never see any rain or salt.

When restoring these cars I coat the under wing areas with an epoxy primmer, either by spray gun or with a small foam roller.
I then spray these areas with a modern synthetic stonechip/underseal, I use black Teroson Terotex 3000.

As for the floors, I just mist coat them in ACF-50 or a light anti corrosion wax from an aerosol can.
I find this is easy to clean off & renew if it gets very dirty, it also offers a good level of corrosion resistance.
I also use the same spray along the inner sill tube area.

For the inner panel edge seal I use 16mm square section closed cell EPDM foam strip. This is the closest thing that I've been able to find to the original sealing material.
I slit the square profile half way through with a small split steel jig with a 16x16mm square through hole. The slit is cut by a box cutter blade clamped in a recess
between the two halves of the jig. I glue the seal in place with UHU all purpose adhesive which seems to hold up well & doesn't melt the foam strip.

Hope the above helps & good luck with your restoration, Luke.

These were still available from the ACOC spares list when I bought one three years ago.