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Clutch Quadrant Replacement

Started by jmohara, August 26, 2019, 23:05:26

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westcott

Quote from: Flyinghorse on August 30, 2019, 21:03:08
That's hilarious as same seller in UK charging £150 plus shipping
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-RS-Turbo-Billet-Aluminium-Uprated-Clutch-Quadrant/123635719689?hash=item1cc9435e09:g:qpgAAOSwt5dcXY~g

Graham, the more expensive one is for use with reinforced upgraded racing clutches, the cheaper one for standard clutches.
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

jmohara

I did check with Anembo - will not work with our pedal box.

Flyinghorse

From one of the old threads (Search quadrant) the ford part number for a 50mm plastic one is (UK RHD CRS at least) 6183029

Graham

Flyinghorse

#18
Re adjusting -its an automatic adjustment which  you activate/set to correct position  by putting your foot under the clutch pedal (once cable  is installed  etc) and pulling up on the pedal with your foot. This adjusts the mechanism/ratchet pawl  and cable to the correct position.

What ever you do , dont start the engine till clutch cable has  been adjusted properly  and has a bit of slack.
Graham

jmohara

Thanks - I bought the plastic replacement. I still would prefer an alluminium one, but that can wait for the winter.....

jmohara

Just to close it off, I found these instructions useful for resetting the self adjusting mechanism.

Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly away from the hole in the clutch release lever.

Install the clip retainer that holds the cable assembly to the bell housing.

Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the isolator with a screw.

Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then, pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.

Depress the clutch cable several times to adjust the cable.

Flyinghorse

Good find- that sounds a sensible & correct way of fitting and adjusting the cable/quadrant.

I started the opposite way round (in the pedal box)  hence had tension in cable at clutch arm.

Graham

jmohara

I am still desperate for a nice alloy one that gets rid of the adjuster if anyone comes across one! That or I may be making one this winter  :)

westcott

#23
The plastic quadrant itself is not the big problem. It is the ratchet mechanism which will breake and strip the teath.

The racing pedals have a manual adjustment screw which makes the quadrant itself more reliable over the time used.

That could be implemented into our basic pedal (which is cutted and welded to a MK IV shape) by drilling a hole and welding some nut inside.

But then you need to adjust the tension and position of your pedal manually on a regular base.

I will post some pics for that simple fix without going to aluminum quadrant.

Update:

This is a real OEM part for harder treatment, the so called racing or motorsports pedal.

It is just a allen head screw going through the pedal and adjusting the quadrant mechanically.

The welded nut inside the pedal is self locking and completely metal, so the adjustment is simple and straight forward by turning the screw in or out,
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

jmohara

OK new approach. Its for a Mercury, but the Quadrant is the same and I think this will work well.
Will publish photos if when I get it together.
M

westcott

Michael,

the diameter or distance from center to cable surface on quadrant MUST be the same at the point where the cable is hooked to it.

If the Mercury part has a bigger diameter the cable will be bended up directly after the footbox to follow the bigger diameter quadrant.
That will cause friction and bending of the cable every time you push the pedal resulting in early cable damage.

I think it is even not possible to mount  the pedal to the pedal box with a much bigger diameter quadrant.
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

jmohara

#26
Hi Uwe,
The diameter is slightly bigger. I made a small modification to the footbox to allow it to clear the frame in that area.
After fitting I watched the action very carefully - the cable runs cleanly through the firewall to the engine bay. There is no snagging or bending.
And the good news is that the clutch action is now so nice. Amazing difference.
Attached is a picture of the pedals before refitting.
Adjustment is so easy now!
Michael

westcott

Hi Michael,

well done, finally you found an other replacement part, working for our cars ! 👍👍

Uwe

Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

jmohara

Thanks Uwe - the clutch quadrant was driving me nuts - it never felt good with the uprated clutch I have in the car. I don't have much room to put a hydraulic unit in - so this makes me really happy. I drove it today and it feels really good.
Step by step.....

Flyinghorse

Michael,
I was thinking about why the clutch action is now "so nice"-perhaps the small change in diameter increases the mechanical advantage enough over the standard quadrant to make a difference, but the spring force in the clutch  is not huge---I have a mcleod clutch in my uprated(Stroked)  CRS and I tested it in my 10 ton press and could hardly measure the force--I also asked mcleod what the force was in lbs but they never replied.

I would be keen to try one of these new quadrants you fitted but can find it on internet --can you plese PM me or link it here for others as well.

Regards,
Graham