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Removing rear hub

Started by aex125, July 20, 2008, 06:22:34

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aex125

I am trying to remove the rear hub on AEX1078 and am having trouble breaking it free. The manual says to use a hub drawer (which I assume is equivalent to a wheel puller) but I do not have one that fits wire wheel hubs. Does anyone have any special tricks that would make removing the hub easier if there is not a wheel puller available?
   Thanks,
   Jay

Robin A Woolmer

I designed a hub puller for splined hubs & arranged for a company called Orson Equipment Ltd in the UK to manufacture & sell them (incedentally i have no benifit on these from Orson) Your hubs i expect are 40mm size & they also make the 50mm size for PVT cars.
   Orson Equipment  web site  ' www.orson-equipment.com '  ' sales@orson-equipment.com '
   Phone 44 1384 241 717  fax 44 1384240 403
   
   Contact Steve Powis or Phil.
   
   Robin

Robin A Woolmer

Correction on hub types, Ace & Cobra splined hubs are 42mm & PVT are 52mm, Orson do both types.
   Perhaps one of the US members could purchase both & lend them out to other members locally as they are only used infrequently but are a must to safely remove the rear hubs.
   Robin

aex125

Thanks for the leads on tools Robin, but I managed to get it off with out a hub puller. First I tried putting a reversed halibrand tri-spinneron the hub and attached a 3 armed gear puller to it. My 2 foot breaker bar was getting tough to turn, so I switched to the impact wrench and in using it, I managed to fracture the main screw of the puller, so on to plan B. Plan B was removing the hub carier ass'y and go use the 10000 lb press. I did this and after a loud thud the stub axle was displaced from the hub, but neither the axle nor hub was loose. Next I used a brass drift and after beating on the stub axle,was finally able to get the it free, but the hub was still not loose. Finally, I used the drift on the inner bore seam between the hub carrier and hub and after working my around for a few minutes, I was able to get the hub off. Whew, It was much harder that I expected but its finally off for a clean, paint, and rebuild.
   Jay

Robin A Woolmer

Jay
   I had similar problems with my 16/80, that is why i decided to design a simple extractor which fits onto the thread with a central bolt with a fine thread acting against the axle end, once the whole thing is tightened up a sharp blow on the head of the bolt releases the hub from the taper.
   Whilst this extractor is rearly used it does save a great deal of grief, lost time & damage to the hub, as pulling on the flanges generally causes damage.
   Perhaps the US section of the club should have a set to lend out!
   By the way my first version used an old spinner with a threaded turned central nut,a 3/4 UNF bolt & a good hammer? that was OK but a good beefy lump of turned steel extractor works better!
   
   Robin

nikbj68

There doesn`t appear to be anything at the Orson link... I suspect that an email to that address may not reach anyone either.[|)]
   Contact details:
   
   Orson Equipment,
   Unit K2,
   Peartree Industrial Park,
   Crackley Way,
   Peartree Lane,
   Dudley,
   West Midlands.
   DY2 0UW
   
   tel:01384 241717
   
   What are the chances of finding a motorcycle flywheel puller that would do the job? Something like this:
   
   I just googled to find that image.
   [:)]

Robin A Woolmer

I can photograph the hub pullers i have if you would be good enough to put them on the site, the photograph you show indicates the principle, basically the hub puller has left & right female hub threads in each end of a round billet in which the centre section has tommy bar holes on the outside & a 3/4'' UNF thread in the centre into which you thread a high tensile set screw.
   The puller is screwed onto the hub & the end of the set screw bears onto the axle end after you have loosened the shaft nut a few turnes, it is best to have a short plug between the axle & screw so the axle thread is not damaged by the screw!
   Once the 3/4 UNF screw is heavily tightened give the screw head a blow with a substantial hammer & the hub should jump off the axle taper.
   Orson unfortunately are out of stock & will be making more in a months time.
   
   Robin

aex125

Robin, I would be interested in seeing picture of the pullers you have since while I did not mind pulling the entire hub ass'y off this time, I would like to have the capability to pull only the hub at a future date if needed. As a reference, it looks like there is puller available on this side of the pond from the MGA guru.
   
   http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/18G363.htm
   
    Not sure how this differs from what you have and so I would be interested in seeing your version.
   Thanks,
   Jay

Robin A Woolmer

I will take a photo tomorrow, would you be good enough to let me have your 'E' mail address & i will send them to you, have not mastered the inclusion of photos on the site as yet.
   The pictures of the pullers on the MG site are very similar however, i am not sure who made the UK supplied ones on their site though!
   If members in UK would like to borrow the pullers  am happy to do so providing they pick up the cost of shipping & keep them in good order. The club should really offer this service though on some of these specialist tools.
   
   Robin

aex125

Robin,
   My e-mail is sfm081 at yahoo dot com.
   Thanks,
   Jay

nikbj68

nikbj68 at yahoo dot co dot uk, and I will host & post them into this thread.
   Alternatively, I did a photo posting guide, 5th post down, HERE.
   The MGA tool looks promising, assuming the threads & dia. are similar:
   

nikbj68

Pictures from Robin Woolmer:
   
   
   ...And words too!
   "Basically the pullers are heavy lumps of quality steel with left & right hub threads to suit 42mm & 52mm hubs, the bolt/set screw is high tensile 3/4''UNF ,toggle holes are for tightening the puller
   onto the hub.
   They weigh 1.6 Kilos & 2 Kilos respectively, it is advisable to loosen the axle nut a couple of turns & use a small steel pad between the bolt & the axle end to avoid damage to the axle thread, you will need to have some good leverage on a socket wrench to get a good load on the bolt, with this done a good hammer blow on the head of the bolt generally breaks the hub off the taper. Leaving the nut on the hub loose is for safety as you do not want the hub hitting where it hurts!
   Sometimes it is best to leave the puller tightened up for 10-15 minutes then retighten before using the hammer as sometimes the hub loosens without the need for the hammer blow!
   Orson made both of these basically to my drawing, one could be fabricated from old spinners but these are nice & beefy.
   I hope this assists,
   Robin."

   
   2 more images, comparing the first one to the bottom one above shows that each puller is double-ended, for left & right sides, the second clearly shows the 'toggle' holes.
   
   

Robin A Woolmer

Nik
   Thanks for putting them on the page.
   
   Regards
   
   Robin

aex125

Robin and Nik, Thanks for getting the pictures organized and posted. They look very similar to the MGA guru one so I'll try giving him a call to check if the one he has is the correct size.
   
   Jay

AC Ace Bristol

quote:
Originally posted by aex125
   
I am trying to remove the rear hub on AEX1078 and am having trouble breaking it free. The manual says to use a hub drawer (which I assume is equivalent to a wheel puller) but I do not have one that fits wire wheel hubs. Does anyone have any special tricks that would make removing the hub easier if there is not a wheel puller available?
   Thanks,
   Jay
   

   
   Jay
   
   Regards rear hub extraction on the Ace & Aceca, please refer to ACtion ...Vol 11  No 9 ....   February 1988.   Page 16 refers whilst Page 17 gives details & dimensions so you can turn one up on a lathe.
   
   I was lucky and bought my one second hand earlier this year  for £20.00 as advertised in ACtion, most people missed it as it was advertised amongst loads of second hand misc Ace / Aceca parts.
   
   At that price, I simply  cancelled my order to have one specially made.
   
   If you haven't access to early copies of Action I will scan and email the two relevent pages.
   
   Keith