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Battery isolation switch

Started by wirewheels57, March 26, 2019, 20:06:20

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wirewheels57

I intend to fit a battery isolation switch to my standard " Thames Ditton" 289 but am struggling to decide where to fit the switch . The priority being access from the driving
position but hidden from view . Can anyone help with suggestions ?

nikbj68


wirewheels57

Thankyou for your reply nikbj68, Yes perhaps this would have been a great place but as the car has never been rebuilt and so original throughout ( albeit with a few amendments over the years ) I am hoping to be able to run the cable and the fixing of the switch without drilling any holes in the car . Any further thoughts ?
I have been looking at the triangulation bar which starts under the dash to the left of the glove box and contemplating some sort of a fixing plate to this for the switch but it is not easy to get to this area when in the driving seat . Then I was stumped with how to run the cables without drilling any holes ?

A-Snake

Is it vital that you're able to reach it from the drivers seat? A simple knife-blade cut off switch on the negative post of the battery works. Lift the hood on passenger side, reach in and lift or lower the blade. With the battery being tucked under the fender it's not easy to notice.

nikbj68

Tricky to achieve without drilling any holes! I can understand your reluctance though.
Do you want a removable isolator key, or could you live with a nice period-looking switch like a Cole Hersee?
Mounted on a plate behind the scuttle tubes, above the tranny tunnel, it would be quite discreet and accessible?

Rob.Hendriks

http://www.brise.co.uk/Battery-Isolator-EV200-H.html
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7701/ML_Solenoid_-_12V_DC

If you do not want to go the route of a cable activated cut-off, with a big ugly cut-off switch, then would recommended either of the above. They are both bi-polar relays/solenoids, whereby power is only used for the mircosecond required to carry out the switching, the relay being held in either the off or on position magnetically.
The EV200 is approved for motorsports
The BlueSea solenoid is double the size but comes with the added function of having an additional level of security, in that the solenoid can be manually locked with the yellow switch at the end

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2145/SPDT_Remote_Control_Contura_Switch_-_%5BON%5D-OFF-%5BON%5D
Both solenoids can be easily switched, however the above switch gives the user another level of security in that the "gate" has to be moved to the other side before the switch can be operated.

I have the BlueSea solenoid and switch fitted and it has operated flawlessly. The switch is mounted on a small alloy bracket, held to the back of the alloy dash with 3M tape
https://www.command.com/3M/en_US/command/products/~/Command-Small-Picture-Hanging-Strips/?N=5924736+3294529207+3294737341&preselect=8706801+3293786499&rt=rud

rr64

#6
I wanted a small panel to be able to install two switches under the dash fascia without drilling more holes in our old red car that has many extra holes already courtesy of former owners. I drew up a bracket to be made from sheet aluminum, formed, painted camera case (a.k.a. crinkle or wrinkle) black, and fixed in place by two worm gear type stainless steel band clamps. See below.

Not having the sheet metal working equipment Nick Acton fabricated it for me from my drawings of the flat blank and formed part.

Works for me, and I like it.  The basic design could go full width between the scuttle hoop supports.   






Dan Case
1964 Cobra owner since 1983, Cobra crazy since I saw my first one in the mid 1960s in Huntsville, AL.

nikbj68


silty

I have an isolator fitted to the scuttle braces.  The panel is leather covered and a close match to the dashboard.  I'll try and post a pic but it's a first for me....

It was fitted by a previous owner and although it may be a bit too conspicuous based on the for OP's requirements, I've found it quite handy at times.

Regards

Jim