CF9

[Emmanueld]

Damien, Hi
   
   Yes, the Frua has a complete dual brake system, 2 master cylinders actuated by the pedal through a balance rod, 2 lines each going to each booster. As you said, front brakes are actuated by one booster and rear by the other. It is quite a simple system. The boosters and master cylinders are Girling and are standard, available anywhere. 60's Lambos used a similar system except the boosters are in the trunk. I will let you know which operate the front and the rear brakes, I have to look under the hood. If you are missing the window switches, good luck, I could not source them anywhere, let me know if you find any!
   
   By the way, I have found a place for the steering wheel, I am going to send mine to be refinished there, If you are interested you can talk to the guy and have him copy it! He is in Florida, let me know. [:)]
   
   Regards,
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

Damien, Hi
   
   On my car, the right master cylinder controls the right booster and the front brakes.
   
   Regards,
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

Damien, I have to find another place for the wheel, Mike Lampert says he can reproduce any flat wheel but he does not have the tooling to do dished ones. The wood is no problem of course. So I have find somebody else!
   
   There is always Bill Rau, he is the best with wood, but we might have the same problem with making the aluminum frame! The good thing! he is a few blocks from my house! I know a machinist next to my office who specializes in aircraft parts, he is very good and he has CNC machines , I will ask him if I give him the frame can he reproduce.
   
   http://www.rau-autowood.com/rroc.htm
   
   Emmanuel

[Damien]

Thanks Emmanuel, I am still very interested in a faithfull reproduction of the original steering wheel.
   Kind regards,
   Damien

[Damien]

I will start painting the car shortly.  Does anybody have the code of a dark blue used originally by AC ?
   
   Damien

[Englishman]

Damian,
   
   I believe the name of the blue is Guardsman Blue and I have just had CF64 repainted in its original colour.
   
   The guys that painted the car punched in Guardsman Blue and got the answer that it is an AC specific colour and obtained the formula.
   
   Good Luck
   
   Peter

[Damien]

Thaks for the tip.  Work is progressing well on the car :
   ;
   ;
   
   
   and I have two further questions.
   Firstly, it seems that one of transfer boxes of the chassis has been 'moved' (see picture). Is this original because of the lengthening of the Cobra cahssis ?
   ;
   Secondly, I am looking for a dust protection cap of the suspension end (see picture), does anybody know where I can source it ?
   
   Regards,
   Damien

[dkp_cobra]

Hi Damien,
   
   I use the dust cover from a Jaguar XJ axle in my MK IV. Look here at the bottom of the page http://www.racecar.co.uk/acoc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=224&whichpage=3
   
   Maybe this works also for you.
   
   Regards, Peter

[Damien]

Can anybody tell me where I can get the formula of Guardsman Blue ?
   
   Kind regards,
   
   Damien

[cliffordl]

Gerry Hawk at Hawk Cars has had the caps made up IIRC 01892 750341.

[Emmanueld]

Damien, Do you have the 4 small square tubes welded at the back of the inner fenders? Also the holes at the back are not original and may help cooling or may help pass on heat inside the cabin! Without the tubes, the inner fender will warp once the accessories are attached!
   
   
   
   
   I know that this crossmember is differently placed on the Frua than on the MKIII. I tried to install a full Cobra 427 Aviad Oil pan and the crossmember got in the way. It seems that AC moved it forward on the Frua. The Mustang Aviad pan fits fine by the way. It could be that on your car (Early model) the factory used a leftover Cobra 427 chassis and modified it for the Frua! Small companies do that. If you give me the distance between the tube front and the back of the motor mount, I can compare with mine and see if it is the same! Why? I think it has to do with the motor mounts which are much taller on the Frua. Bringing the crossmember closer to the engine might reduce engine vibrations and flex! Pure speculation on my part. Also your car is equipped with anti sway bar mounts which had to be added on mine. You could get a 3/4" anti sway bar from Kirkham and bolt it right in! Great handling improvement! Also, now is the time to move the steering to the other side if you want to do it! I am thinking about the brake pedal assembly which is begging to be moved to the left! very easy to do at this point! just reverse the panels or make new ones. If you plan to do the conversion, just make sure your engine with exhaust manifolds and Transmission are in place. the steering shaft is so close to the engine that you might have a problem if you don't do it that way. We are talking about a 1/2" here.
   
   Emmanuel[:)]

[Damien]

Emmanuel,
   
   Yes I have the square small tubes on my car, they are all in good shape.
   The distance between the crossmembers is 54,5 cm.
   
   Regards,
   
   Damien

[Englishman]

Hi Damian,
   
   I believe that the formula for Guardsman Blue will be obtainable by your local car resprayer from the paint manufacturers data base which is accessed via the internet.
   
   Just spoke to my guy who confirms that the code is Ford America "F" in Deltron Base Coat. Hope this helps.
   
   Peter

[Emmanueld]

Hi Damien,
   
   I meant the distance between engine mounts and crossmember right behind them. 6".
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

Damien Hi,
   
   Did you relocate the steering to the left?
   
   Regards,
   
   Emmanuel