The right engine for the Frua!

[ak1234]

Emmanuel,
   
   I had drag race 427 & 428CJ's for about 15 years.  Couple things are definately sure about those FE big blocks ...they dont like rev's and dont need to rev. My SS CJ's we did extensive research and developement.  They make a LOT of HP and Torque at 6400 rpm after that it drops off fast.
   
   Couple tricks I recommend.  Restrictors in the heads .. solid lifter motor dont need all that oil up top.   FE's like a lot of oil pressure and light wieght synthetic oil.
   
   
   not to high jack your thread but ...Oliver used to make a nascar H beam rod CUSTOM for nascar 6.125. This is a set.
   
   Technically my 351 is a 377 with a stds bore ..its new SVO block.
   
   Ron

[Emmanueld]

Ron, thanks for the info! How old are these rods? Never seen these. We typically run 10Lbs pressure per 1000 rpm on the 427. My new crank is not crossed drilled so it's probably better for oil pressure! On the Kirkham, I ran a side oiler with stock crossed drilled forged 427 crank and billet crower rods. My engine builder does not like to run more that the figure above, he says it creates too much drag on the motor.
   
   I was thinking about trying 15W50 Mobil one which has a higher zinc content than others. We have had problems with cams running flat over here because most oil companies have reduced the zinc content which is supposed to be bad for cats on modern cars. Meanwhile, if you run solid lifters and a bit of spring pressure,  you might have a problem. People are running diesel oil, or Racing Valvoline to prevent this. Crower makes solid lifters which have been polished to a mirror like finish, have you heard about these? They say they resist better! We will see!
   
   Emmanuel[:)]

[ak1234]

Emmanueld,
   
   In my heart the FE is a great choice.  They make loads of HP and TQ with low rpm.
   
   I used 5W-30 Synthetic and changed it after each race day.  Found in the long run the motors lasted about 50 more runs.  The lighter the oil the better it flows thru restricted oil lines in the block.
   
   Dont be alarmed .. a close friend is a metalurgist, engineer and builds weapons for the gov.  We tested a few bad cams that ran flat and it was the metal and not the oil. The cams are foriegn metal ... its porousity and hardness is not per spec.
   
   I ran solid lifters and a high spring pressure for many years .. make sure what you are buying is back by guarrantee on the quality of the metal. Comp Cams had a bad run for a few years.
   
   Also be careful FE's a thin around the freeze out plugs .. they crack.
   
   Hey I wish I could post pics here .. I have a nice motor for you .. I picked it up for 3800.00 ... 2 - 427 SOHC's  LOL
   
   Ron
   
   Ron

[Emmanueld]

Thanks Ron,
   
   I avoid comp cam, I have heard that the quality of their parts is not so hot. My engine builder is partial to Crower and I have been happy with their cams and lifters. Crane and Iskenderian are very good as well.
   Rollers are great for racing but on a street car which will be in traffic, there are lubrification problems at idle for the roller bearing which can lead to massive (expensive) failure.
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

A week from tomorrow, I have a date with the dyno! we will see what type of power my new motor will make. 10 to 1 compression, ported Edelbrock heads from Keith craft, the block has been bored .15 over. I selected a relatively mild solid cam from Crower. We will see, I am dying in anticipation! Hopefully, all will not end in a loud bang!
   
   Emmanuel[:D]

[Emmanueld]

Hi, I got a call from my engine builder, Dyno results are 502HP at 5200RPM and torque 532lbs at 3200 or 3400rpm I don't recall exactly. All with a smooth idle and plenty of vacuum for the power brakes. He also says the curve is very linear which should make the car enjoyable to drive. This is with a mild solid lifter cam. I am happy! I did not want a racing engine with no vacuum, ruff idle and fouling plugs every 5 minutes. With it's Stock 427 Holley vacuum secondary carb, this engine should feel and behave close to stock with a lot more grunt of course. It will also look stock too except for the aluminum heads. He said there was another 20 to 30 horses with leaning out but I chose not too because of possible pinging and overheating problems with the gas available here. I need to start looking for MKIV hubs because the wire wheels will self destruct!
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

Here are some photos of my new motor!
   
   
   
   
   
   As you can see the motor looks completely original externally with the exception of the heads. This is the way it was Dynoed! Oil pan will be different and the fuel pump will be installed. Even the valve covers are rare sand cast original GT 500 pieces.
   
   Emmanuel  [:)]

[Emmanueld]

Hi guys, well many things have changed since 07. I have removed the 4 speed gearbox and installed a TKO 600 with a .82 fifth gear. no modifications to the car were necessary. The Toploader would not go into first gear after being in reverse and it drove me crazy. I was told it was because I selected a Hurst Shifter. With the 5 speed gearbox, the car has become so nice to drive. It has immense power all the way to 6500rpm, runs cool and the inside stays cool as well and now it's off to the body shop for probably 6 to 8 months. Gear ratio will be lowered again to 3.31 and the springs will be uprated again to 550 front and 600lbs rear like Jeffrey 's car. I will post photos from time to time to show the progress.
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

Siegfried, I thought you may be interested in reading this thread when you are doing your motor. I spent a couple of years experimenting with different engine configurations. Sorry to bring back an old thread for other members. Jeffrey and I did engine mods at the same time, he stayed more conservative than I. He had a 428 police block from the start, my car being a much later model was outfitted with a service block which I suspect was due to the fact that Ford had already discontinued the FE when it was built, so I decided to start with a 427 Side Oiler block. Its a 1968 which has the advantage of being outfitted for the use of both hydraulic and mechanical lifters.
   
   Emmanuel[:)]

[Rheinubung]

Hello, Emmanuel:
   
   You may recall I built a rather similar 427 for CF-21. I used the 428 SCJ crank, the Chevy bearing & pin sizes in Jahns pistons at about 9.5:1 compression. I chose a Crane solid (but mild for auto trans) cam. I, too, have the Edelbrock heads but elected to go with 406 Tri-Power carbs.(The look is cooly excellent.)
   
   This is a slow project thus far, but I expect dyno numbers very close to yours.
   
   Thank you very much for sorting out ring/pinion and coil spring specs. I shall plagerize. Did you convert the rear suspension trailing arm to Cobra (i.e., adjustable) type? Which pin-drive conversion did you use for Halibrand mag wheels?
   
   Best Regards,
   Rheinubung

[Emmanueld]

Yes I did the adjustable upper control arms came from Kirkham as well and have a heim joint instead of the rubber bushing, you can now adjust the camber and raise the car, just like a 427 Cobra. For the pin drive conversion I tried to use the original hub but the rear did not work, they are not machined for pins and the thread does not go far enough to secure the wheel properly. I ended up replacing all 4 hubs, by specific pin drive ones. The man who use to make them for Shelby is still around and he still makes them for the Cobra restoration people, his name is in the back of my mind and when it comes back to me I will give it to you. Shelby would thrash the English made hubs which were braking in racing and install those. I bought a set of locally made Halibrand copies in 15" but I also bought a set of MKIV Halibrand wheels in 16" which I have not tried on yet. The 16" are not that different but there are a lot more street tires available in 225-60X16 than 225-70X15 rear.  This is the best size for the car with all that power. Up front I currently have 215-70X15 to keep the steering light same as a 365 GTB4 Daytona. Any thinner tire makes the car a bit scary at high speed. I have purchased a beautiful set of Dayton wire wheels with aluminum rims and when I installed the big motor I switched to pin drive for safety. Jeffrey is currently using those. They are mounted with 225-70X15 Michelins OEM to later Jag XJS. The original india made Dunlop wire wheels which I still have are really cheap and weak for a car with a built motor and a manual box. Let me know if you want the name of the hub guy.
   
   Emmanuel[:)]