Rear Disks

[jmohara]

OK easy one for the Christmas break.
   Steps to remove rear disks / rotors from a MKIV?
   Don't want to damage anything by being over zealous with the blunt instruments...
   Thanks
   Michael

[jmohara]

Anyone any thoughts for a Cobra novice?

[wenzeh]

Michael,
   
   In my opinion one of the most difficult tasks on this car, and if not performed correct, big costly damages can happen to bearings and half shaft afterwards.  Not sure so if the design has changed over time or not, but on my car it was not easy.  In order to disassemble the disk you need to get the half shaft out of the bearings from the nuckle and on assembly re shim again the bearing play.  The rear main nut needs to be locked again with 400Nm if I remember correctly.  (I asked how strong to lock the guys where I purchased all spares in UK - there answer was f***ing tight!  As this task was performed incorrectly by the previous owner of AK 1005 as the axial play was not correct, I had to purchase a entire new half shaft as well as all new bearings and seals. I can remember also that originally the shims are very thin and multiple will be needed.  I decided to manufacture after knowing the thickness a single shim by a lathe.  I know others on this forum had done the same as well.  Don't know also why, but the shaft material is very mild steel and therefore will be the first to be damaged.  This unfortunately is the most expensive part at the end as well.  I can look up some pics if you like and send, if you provide email.
   
   Regards, Heinz

[lightblue]

Michael,
   
   I'm afraid Heinz is correct, not an easy job!
   
   The disc/upright assembly needs to be removed from the car and the single central bolt clamping the upright to the stub-axle removed.  This allows the upright & bearings to be removed thus giving access to the nuts securing the disc to the stub-axle.
   
   With air tools and good access - hoist or pit - it might be possible to remove the drive shaft and access the centre bolt with the assembly still on the car but I haven't tried this!
   
   The central bolt is very tight and it seems the factory often used a high-strength Loctite which means it is tight all the way off not just the initial break-torque.
   
   Good luck.
   
   John.

[jmohara]

OK thanks guys - I know just the man for that job :-) Appreciate the guidance.
   Michael

[1985 CCX]

Michael

I know this is a long expired thread.....
Did you ever perform this task?  I am planning to repack bearings to avoid dry bearings and spindle fracture this month.
35year old car, 8000 miles indicates its sat for some time.

[jmohara]

I chickened out and had Cobra Automotive do it. Nick Acton would be a good man for this too.
Its all perfect now!

[1985 CCX]

All in on Cobra Automotive, not so much otherwise......

[jmohara]

I find Nick great but your shout!