Greyhound for sale in Ohio

[RevitAuto]

Hi Motorheads,
   
   Thank you all for the replies, sorry for my delayed response I was out of the country. I really appreciate all of the assistance in sourcing parts! I will keep you posted on our results!
   
   Happy Motoring,
   
   Blair

[nikbj68]

Hi Mark.
   I`m trying to establish locations on the chassis that might have a number stamped, will get back to you when I have done, but if you look in the Greyhound Register, there were only 4 LHD cars listed as exported to the US ex-factory, and only 6 showing as currently (2009!) in the USA, with one listed as being a "BEF" chassis number, but LHD.
   One is listed as being Green, with Grey interior, in the US, but it is a "BEF" chassis number with no mention of it being LHD.
   
   Best of luck getting her on the road,Post PHOTOS please!!!
   Nik.

[BEX298]

Hi Mark,
   I own BEF2545 which has been completely apart and is now going back together. It is the car with Mike Engaard at Ragtops. We found the chassis number in the following places:
   (1) On chassis itself, top of front shocktower on right side - on the lip closest to the engine (might be on left side if LHD car) - full number BEF2545.
   (2) Stamped on the wood frame in the rear trunk lid (I believe number only, e.g., 2545).
   (3) Hinge in hood (bonnet for you in UK) between bolt holes - number only.
   (4) In pencil on the back of at least two of the door cards and other trimmed interior components - number only.
   
   As an update to the above conversation about brake drums, I was speaking with Crossthwaite and Gardner (I know them pretty well from other projects) and they manufacture the drums but don't sell them directly - you need to contact Mr. (Mark?) Finburgh of Classic Autos of King's Langley for purchase for Ace (01923 262994). Apparently,they are now out of stock at C&G but Finburgh may have some Ace drums on the shelf. However, since they are OOS, C&G will soon be making a run of Ace drums. If you want these but with the Greyhound PCD or undrilled, then contact Finburgh and maybe he can run some with the others. As stated above, no one uses pure Alfin process to manufacture the drums.

[RevitAuto]

Thank you for that lead, I will be sure to give them a ring. I was talking with the Glassman who just restored a greyhound and was telling me about the hefty price for them! I really appreciate the info!
   
   
   

quote:Originally posted by B.P.Bird
   
Blair,
   Crossthwaite and Gardner still list the Wellworthy Alfin drum. On the G'hound, if on 15" wheels, the outer two, sometimes 3 fins need turning to reduce in height. Their part number AC100 is for the Ace/Aceca and the G'hound rear hub mounting PCD is larger and has larger mounting holes. However there is enough room between the Ace holes to machine the 6 holes for the G'hound. This was common practice at Thames Ditton if they were short of one type or the other:
   
   http://www.crosthwaiteandgardiner.com/parts/ac-parts-list
   
   You could ask C & G if they would supply drums undrilled or even ask them to copy a G'hound drum.
   
   Warning - If you go anywhere near the hub interior remember G'hound rear hubs are handed on the threads for the locking ring D63240-1 and locking nut D63024-5 (as in all A.C. part numbers if you see an oblique or an hyphen with another sequential number following it means there are two parts one left and one right.) The hub on the port side should be the one with LH threads, but they can be built into the wrong side .....
   
   

[RevitAuto]

Thank you for this, Mark sent it over. We will be adding bearings as we had a failure of a wheel seal and the spindle and bearings have rusted. The spindle is salvageable and part numbers are clearly on the bearings. Wish I could say the same for the wheel seal! Any chance you might have one?
   
   

quote:Originally posted by Teamdeck
   
Nik,
   Would love your thoughts on what car this is. I have done some research but no luck.
   It has a "southern Oregon vintage racing enthusiast" sticker on it, which is a club in Oregon. I reached out to them and they had no knowledge of the car when they asked a few of the British car nuts...surprising given the rarity. I've contacted the museum that owned the car a time or two and nothing back.
   I haven't found any numbers on the car yet.
   Would love any intel you may be able to provide.
   Hoping to get her on the road soon.
   Best
   Mark
   

[RevitAuto]

Thanks for that Info! Do you know the Front Wheel Seal part interchanges? We have the driver side inner door panel off. Next time I am at the car I will be sure to check those 4 places. Although we do not have keys for the doors or trunk! Working on that this week!
   
   

quote:Originally posted by RevitAuto
   
Thank you for that lead, I will be sure to give them a ring. I was talking with the Glassman who just restored a greyhound and was telling me about the hefty price for them! I really appreciate the info!
   
   
   

quote:Originally posted by B.P.Bird
   
Blair,
   Crossthwaite and Gardner still list the Wellworthy Alfin drum. On the G'hound, if on 15" wheels, the outer two, sometimes 3 fins need turning to reduce in height. Their part number AC100 is for the Ace/Aceca and the G'hound rear hub mounting PCD is larger and has larger mounting holes. However there is enough room between the Ace holes to machine the 6 holes for the G'hound. This was common practice at Thames Ditton if they were short of one type or the other:
   
   http://www.crosthwaiteandgardiner.com/parts/ac-parts-list
   
   You could ask C & G if they would supply drums undrilled or even ask them to copy a G'hound drum.
   
   Warning - If you go anywhere near the hub interior remember G'hound rear hubs are handed on the threads for the locking ring D63240-1 and locking nut D63024-5 (as in all A.C. part numbers if you see an oblique or an hyphen with another sequential number following it means there are two parts one left and one right.) The hub on the port side should be the one with LH threads, but they can be built into the wrong side .....
   
   

   

[B.P.Bird]

Blair, Do you have the G'hound 'General Insructions' as there are some very helpful diagrams and part numbers therein. Reprints available from The Club I believe. As it happens the seal you refer to is only listed by A.C. part number D63512. However in many cases you will find a suppliers part number. As I remember it the seal was an Alford and Adler part, like the rest of the front 'Vertical Link' anyway many years ago now, but I think it is possibly the same part on a TR2/3 which of course also used the same Vertical Link.

[Robin A Woolmer]

Hub Seal is Burtonwood  150-250-85
   
   Robin

[Teamdeck]

Hey Robin,
   
   Thank for a partnumber, any idea where I can purchase Burtonwood components? Google and parts retailers were not much help.
   
   

quote:Originally posted by Robin A Woolmer
   
Hub Seal is Burtonwood  150-250-85
   
   Robin
   

[Teamdeck]

I do not have the General Instructions, But I will get Mark to pass those along. Last time we worked on the car I went into the members section and saw some of the part numbers that were originally from A.C. I had no luck finding cross referencing those. I am going to do some disassembly tomorrow take some measurements and compare. I will confirm our findings. Thank you again for your help!
   
   

quote:Originally posted by B.P.Bird
   
Blair, Do you have the G'hound 'General Insructions' as there are some very helpful diagrams and part numbers therein. Reprints available from The Club I believe. As it happens the seal you refer to is only listed by A.C. part number D63512. However in many cases you will find a suppliers part number. As I remember it the seal was an Alford and Adler part, like the rest of the front 'Vertical Link' anyway many years ago now, but I think it is possibly the same part on a TR2/3 which of course also used the same Vertical Link.
   

[Robin A Woolmer]

I have tried to find a cross reference for the  Burtonwood seal (burtonwood were sold in 1959) so assume are not now trading Unfortunately there is not cross reference, I expect it is a 1.5" Shaft,2.5" housing & 0.85" wide, the width is much greater than similar imperial seals available now which appear to have a maximum width of 0.5"
   We do not know either what type of seal it is ,so unfortunately you will need to dismantle the part & measure the size & type of seal then look at manufacturers data to find a suitable seal!
   
   Robin

[RevitAuto]

Hey Gang,
   
   Sorry for the delayed response.The Hoon had its first drive around the block this week! Very exciting stuff, especially with the v8 pulling it around.
   
   If someone could please add these parts to the parts interchange.
   
   Napa Autoparts Oil Seal 15160. This is for the Hub Seal. Purchased from Napa Autoparts
   Timken 1997x-20024 Front Hub Bearing Purchased from Dalton Bearings_ Summit Racing has these also
   Timken 09067-20024 Front Hub Bearing Purchased from Dalton Bearings_Summit Racing has these also
   
   Girling Master Cylinder, Small Reservoir - 0.62 inch Bore Purchased from Pegasus racing online Part Number 3500-.62
   
   
   Rear Brake Line Part Number 813-1203 This connects the braided line to the rear wheel cylinder. It is 12 inches long and requires one adapter G60693-0303, This comes with the fittings on the line already that will work with the wheel cylinder. We Purchased ours from power track LTD
   Purchased from Napa Auto Parts.
   
   Happy Motoring Guys!
   
   Blair

[johngoose]

Thank you so much Blair. Will do.
   So pleased you are happy with the Hoon, a Greyhound with a V8 is a wonderful thing
   I wonder if you have found any sign of Chassis Number yet ?
   As I've explained, BEF 2563 would fit except that it is/was right hand drive  and you are are left
   Are there any signs of a change in drive ?
   I look forward to hearing how you progress
   Good luck
   John

[RevitAuto]

Hey John,
   
   I was not able to find any chassis numbers yet. I wish I had another car to compare it to in order to know what is original and not. I did find a piece of the frame section that holds in the master cylinders to be cut from the now passenger side. (If that makes any sense to you)  The rest of the paneling that is riveted on covers additional signs, and peeling back all the carpet proved to be more difficult with the amount of glue sprayed.
   
   I am just starting to get into the rats nest of the wiring under the dash, is there any way you could take a photo of the dash and label what each switch is supposed to do. It would save me huge amounts of time! Also the key that starts the motor does not open any of the doors, is this a common thing? I am trying to find a proper locksmith!
   
   Happy Motoring,
   
   Blair

[johngoose]

Thank you Blair
   From what you write, you may have found the remains of the pedal box and master cylinder frame on what is now your passenger side ?
   If so it could indeed be 2563 converted to left hand
   From one of your pics the dash board looks like solid wood rather than veneered. All the Greyhound wood dashboards I've seen have been veneered
   If you could let me have your e-mail address I will send pictures of the instruments and the pedal box area - and anything else you would like
   Best wishes
   johngoose@btinternet.com