Head gasket,valve timing done, All good at last!

[GSouthee]

Well managed to get valve timing wheel round one tooth, but on starting it appears to be still out, had to advance dizzy too much to get running and misting back through carbs indicates inlet still opening too early.  Not sure if another tooth will be too far the other way yet, if it is may have to get the wheel off and drill some adjusting holes in it as per Leo Archibold's book. Got to out this pm so will leave it till tomorrow.
   
   Ho Hum the joys of old AC's.  (Almost had thoughts of taking engine out and slipping in one of my V8's either Rover 3.5 and 5 speed  or Daimler 250 Auto, maybe one day if this engine gives up).
   
   Cheers  G

[GSouthee]

Valve timing set eventually, getting good at slipping timing wheel  and chain off now. Got it spot on with some holes drilled in the wheel so as to turn by less degrees than one tooth allows. Fired up easily and spitting gone from carbs, carbs running beautifully.
   
   But and a big but!  there is now a awful deep knocking from down below (in the engine not me). Was not there before head gasket done, sounds like ends, not sure how or why it should happen but get to just over 1200 rpm and its starts to knock away.
   
   Had a word with Steve Gray who suggests dropping sump and checking ends, though he does not understand why it should appear if not there beforehand. So it looks like only option at mo, just put in all fresh oil as well, Dam.
   
   If ends are cooked, I will have to consider options. Rebuild bottom end, if to do that I might as well have modern seals fitted front and rear, possibly have big ends shelled instead of white metaled and have a front damper conversion instead of flywheel damper.  Not sure of costs (but am led to believe an arm and a leg come to mind).
   
   Other option is to fit another type of engine, possibilities inc a Rover V8 (tad too much power), Daimler 2.5 V8 (much more in keeping with early style and less power) or some other straight 6.  I know Rovers very well and would be my obvious choice as have built many in past. But I do like the look of the AC engine and it keep it all original. Just not sure if alleged costs would be viable for a Saloon.
   
   Still it will give me something to think about in the Xmas to New Year gap.
   
   So with the consultant telling my pins in foot won't be out before New Year and now the engine looks like for trip to the New Years parade is out of the window.
   
   Ho Hum.
   
   Cheers  G

[Flyinghorse]

I would be surprised if the big end had just suddenly gone what with no miles done,unless you had an oil blockage. Also would your oil pressure not have dropped?
   Did you drop more into the engine than you suspected when your spanner slipped?
   
   Have you retimed it and reset the valve tappets (Can create surprising noise) since all the valve timing issues?
   
   I use a long screwdriver to find the precise knock location.
   
   Its not clear to me from your note if the knocking gets worse above 1200rpm or below? I always thought the big end were worse at low idle.
   Good luck as I had been enjoying this thread with someone wielding the  spanners.

[GSouthee]

Hi Flying horse.
   
   No only dropped the spanner once. after that made sure it was stuffed with rag around it.
   
   Oil pressure excellent, I thought I would see a drop but not on this occasion.
   
   Knock only comes in as engine revs climb, don't want to do it too much as may cause further damage.
   
   I am going to check valve timing and gaps again as someone has suggested it may 180degs out, not sure how I would have done that but who knows.
   
   Oh my head hurts.
   
   Cheers  Gary

[3.5 Pints at the Bar]

If you're valve timing is okay, then you might want to check that the distributor isn't over-advancing as the revs pick up. Check the centrifugal weights, etc. Big end trouble seems unlikely.

[GSouthee]

Cheers  3.5 pints, will check that as well. I hope it is something basic that i've missed.
   
   Cheers G

[Flyinghorse]

You did mention you had advanced the timing previously so pinking/knocking is possible as 3.5pints suggests. May be an easy fix for you.
   I would start from basics and do the tappets/valve clearances first,then set static timing off flywheel/using a light, followed by fine tuning with a strobe.
   
   I don't know the AC 2 litre engine or  saloon but my Bristol 400 (an in period competitor)  also has an advance retard knob in the cabin,and has no vacuum advance--did you set the static  timing with this in the right position(i cant recall what the Bristol manual says) but you will see if retards or advance by pulling the lever.
   
   Good luck -sounds like you need a break!
   
   Graham

[GSouthee]

Hi Well went back down garage this am, I went back to basic and first checked the valve timing again and it was a tad out so went round another hole (the ones that I drilled in it to allow tighter timing) on the cam wheel, now right on the nose at timing point. Then ensure the dizzy in the right place, all good within a degree or 2 for start up, Then checked the valve gaps again and blimey so far out it was untrue they were nearer 10 thou not 20 thou some were almost 8 thou. I can only think in all my adjustments that I forgot to re-gap after all the adjustments. Went through each one, marking the top with a dob of typex so I knew where I was up to. Double checked the timing again.
   
   Connect Battery, put rocker cover back on, turn on ignition, turn on battery, lean down press solenoid on starter and, and , and  it started first time. No noise, No rattles, a little fast on tickover so will probably have to reset carbs and ignition timing after xmas.
   
   Let it run up for 15 minutes to get hot, still no prob's.
   
   So moral of the story is do a checklist as you go along, double check every thing, listen to other folk, check again.
   
   So thanks all who gave advice/ideas etc. Now don,t have to think of costly rebuild or retro fit another type of engine (the V8's will have to wait for another project).
   
   Now if the consultant is good to me on new years eve and removes my pins from foot op I shall go the London New Years parade.
   
   Cheers all and a merry xmas.
   
   G

[BE774]

Good news, Gary! Don't forget to re-torque the cylinder head. Have a relaxed Christmas and an even better New Year's parade.

[GSouthee]

Cheers,
   
   Have already re-torqued it after running it up hot will do again later in week, and then hopefully give it a run on New Years eve before another re-torque.
   
   Cheers  Gary

[GSouthee]

Well went to New year parade and all was well. No running probs. Just re-torqued head, very slight tightening before wrench clicked in. Now leave it alone for a couple of hundred miles before last tighten up.
   
   However will need to get a couple of rocker gaskets as this blue paper type I got from Rod Briggs has come apart now and is currently held in place with a smear of Hylomar.  Does anybody do a cork rocker gasket or is there something better. I thought a smear of vaseline would stop it sticking to the head/rocker cover by no.
   
   Next on list will be doing the leaky front oil seal.
   
   Cheers  all
   
   G

[BE774]

Glad the car behaved itself and you were able to attend the event, Gary.