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Owners/workshop manual?

Started by GSouthee, October 14, 2015, 12:21:29

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GSouthee

Does anyone know if such a thing exists.  I do have the original red general instructions books which is very useful. However, it does not give things like torque settings etc.
   
   Also would like to know what the compression should be on a 2 litre 1949 engine fitted with 7.5 pistons.
   
   Cheers  Gary[?]
A car is only original once, but, you can modify it as many times as you like.

My car my rules.

Robin A Woolmer

Gary
   If you go into the members area you will find several articles on the cars/engines which will be helpful.
   If you have 7.5 pistons then in theory you will have 7.5-1 compression!
   
   Robin

administrator

The red "General Instructions" book is AC's version of an owner's handbook.  I have never seen or heard of a workshop manual for any AC so if anyone knows of one, please post details!

GSouthee

Hi Admin  cheers for that, GI's not the most informative re such things as torque settings for bolts, head studs etc  etc.
   
   Hi Robin, Yes I worked that out but more wanted to know what compression psi would be when I test the compression, so I know if all good. Again GI's not much help.
   
   If anyone knows where I can find this info would be much appreciated
   
   Cheers  Gary
A car is only original once, but, you can modify it as many times as you like.

My car my rules.

Klassik Metall

The Ace/Aceca handbook lists the torque for both the head & main bearing studs at 40 ft lbs.
   
   As for a compression test I'd expect to see at least 150 psi on a dry test and a slight increase on the resultant figure for a wet test. What you are really testing for anyway is consistency between the cylinders rather than a set maximum.
   
   Regards Luke.

GSouthee

Hi Luke cheers for that.  G
A car is only original once, but, you can modify it as many times as you like.

My car my rules.

rod briggs

In response to G.Southee's enquiry and the many similar that I have received, I can now reply that I have been writing just such a manual for quite some while now but have not said much about it as these things take ages, especially with a business (AC Engines) to run. However, progress has now reached the point where I can break cover!
   
   To quote from the book's Introduction:
   The purpose of this book is to provide the owner of an AC two litre, light six engine with the knowledge necessary to understand his engine, its design features, how it works and what to do about it when it doesn't.
   This book is designed to de-mystify the engine and to cut through the mass of largely inaccurate techno-folklore that surrounds it and to provide practical guidance to the average owner who is reasonably handy with a spanner but who is not a trained or even self-taught engineer and who does not have extensive workshop facilities or special tools.  At worst, the book will give the owner who never dirties his hands a much clearer idea of what lurks beneath his bonnet and what is going on when it cries out for attention.
   
   Especially worth reading is the highly erudite History for which Tim Isles must take the lion's share of the credit.  The book is being copiously illustrated with a selection of the thousands of photographs that I have taken during engine rebuilds over the last decade or so.
   
   And when will it be finished?  Very soon, I hope.  And the title? 'Living with an AC Engine'.
   
   Best regards,
   
   Rod Briggs

GSouthee

Hi Rod
   
   Excellent I shall be quickly on your mailing list as soon as in print,  also will be after s few bits for over winter work.
   
   Ps Can I change the front oil seal with engine in situ?
   
   Cheers  G
A car is only original once, but, you can modify it as many times as you like.

My car my rules.

rod briggs

Hi Gary,
   
   Thanks for the encouragement re-the book and always glad to sell bits as well!
   
   Is the word 'seal' missing from your last question?  If so, the answer is yes but probably only if the engine is very clean.  It is possible to prise the seal out and to fit a new one but in reality you are likely to get in a horrible mess and the sump and block seal housings have to be clean and in good condition for the seal to sit properly.  You would stand a better chance if you take the sump off first.  If you are fortunate there will be no grooves in the crankshaft caused by the seal.
   
   If you need a seal, we've got plenty.
   
   Best regards,
   
   Rod

GSouthee

Cheers Rod,
   
   Yep engine is pretty clean in all as kept tidy by myself and previous owner, thought would probably have to remove sump, I will be ordering accordingly shortly and be looking at a remote oil filter set up.
   
   Cheers  G
A car is only original once, but, you can modify it as many times as you like.

My car my rules.