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[cliffordl]

CF25 is now residing on my driveway with an expired Aug 2005 tax disc (so must have been running up to this date or thereabouts). Battery still has power. Bonhams have touched nothing so it arrived with hood down and windows down. Hood is almost ok but only one window has gone up so far. Petrol tank is leaking near sensor. Body is interesting muli-shade blue. Looks like a water explosion (head gasket?) occured and ended its running. Mileage shows as approx. 55600. Number plate has changed at least twice. Very little paper documentation with it.
   
   So questions for the forum...
   
   Does anyone have a copy of an owners handbook that they can let me have (photocopy or email) if such a thing existed.,
   My central console (of switches) has large black rocker switches rather than the flip switches that I have seen in most photos and is missing the cigar lighter..any comment??
   Overall interior seems fair passenger green plastic visor has lost its mounts..are these available elsewhere?
   Hood works but is torn on one edge..any uk recommended sources of replacement?
   Do you run these cars on unleaded with a conversion or use additive??
   
   Sorry for so many basic questions but I'm in at the deep end here and would like to get it right..as for state of the underbody I'll keep you posted.
   
   Photos to follow
   
   Cliff.

[Emmanueld]

Hi Cliff,
   
   I own CFX54 another roadster, The way I would approach it first is as follows:
   Disconnect and remove the battery and plug it on a charger away from the car.
   
   Drain the gas tank, it probably has old gas in it! Use a siphon and a Jerry can. the old gas must be disposed of.
   
   Disconnect the gas gage sensor wires, and remove bolts and sensor to give access to inside the tank. With a flashlight look inside the tank and see how it looks! If it's all rusted and dirty in there, the tank will have to be removed and sent to a specialist who will repair it. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR IT YOURSELF, even if it looks empty and dry, it can still explode if you bring any kind of flame near or inside it. If it looks OK inside, make a new gasket and close the panel using sealing compound.
   
   Engine: if indeed a head gasket went bad and the engine sat with coolant inside, the engine is finished, complete tear down will be necessary. I would look at all the hoses first, a "water explosion" is likely to come from a busted hose! next remove the spark plugs and inspect, they should be black and the electrodes white, if that is the case, there is no water in the cylinders. If one or more are rusted, complete tear down will be required. Pull the dipstick and inspect, if it's black it's ok, if it's rusted or it looks like it's covered with mustard, there is water in the oil then the motor is finished. If you don't see any trace of water in the oil or the cylinders, then I would try to rotate the engine by hand, if it turns, it's a good sign. Put a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder a rotate the motor by hand, if it's frozen you can start by warming up some oil and poring it in the cylinders try to pry the engine gently with a wrench on the harmonic balancer back and forth. This might take a couple of days! little by little it should free up. Do it until you can rotate it freely by hand. I forgot, drain the oil and leave the sump open and see if the oil you have put in the combustion chambers comes out the bottom, if it does, it means the rings are stuck and it's not good. You have to work very gently otherwise you might break a ring. DO NOT USE THE STARTER MOTOR UNTIL THE ENGINE IS FREED UP. If it turn freely, close the sump and fill the motor with a very light weight oil like 5W30, also install a new filter that you have filled with the same oil. Install new plugs, new fuel filters. The original fuel filter on the left side of the engine is of the type that can be cleaned. There is a small one on the carburetor that has to be replaced. If the motor starts, it will smoke a lot for 10 minutes and then if you are lucky, the smoke should disappear. If it does not, the engine will have to come out.  If the engine runs fine, run for an hour until temperature is normal, then drain the oil again, install a new filter as before and fill with 10 or 20W50. The carburetor might need rebuilding if the motor misses.
   
   The hand book is available from the AC Club!
   
   The car will run OK on unleaded for a while but a valve job will be required eventually to convert the guides. You can buy a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads which come already set up with SS valves for about $1400 here in the US, your motor will run better with those.
   
   If the motor is shot, I would source a good motor from the US and replace your old one, it will be cheaper than rebuilding the original one and there are no engine numbers, just date codes. I can help you with finding a good engine builder this side of the ocean.
   
   The later model cars had black rockers like mine, check out the "4 speed conversion" thread and you will see pictures of my Frua's cockpit. Is it the same?
   
   Cigar lighter is the same as Aston Martin DBS and early V8. Try "Puddleduck" on line, I have bought Aston parts from them and they are friendly. www.puddleduck.uk.com
   
   For the sunvisor hinges, try this it might fit: http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/858~sun+visor+bracket-details/
   
   Hope this helps!
   
   Emmanuel

[Emmanueld]

Hi, If you need instruction on how to remove the petrol tank, I can help!
   
   Regards,
   
   Emmanuel

[cliffordl]

A little wet but awaiting recommissioning
   
   
   
   Interior as follows
   
   
   
   Was really just trying to get photo posting worked out. More will follow when the rain stops. Thanks for all help and advice to date.

[Hunter]

Hi Clifford, not sure if it'll be of any help, but having read Emmanuels advice thought it might be worth mentioning that the engineer at Bonhams told me that he'd ran the engine (though he had to wiggle the key to get it to start)..and that it ticked over ok but cut out whenever he tried to rev it. Tony.

[Classicus]

Hi Clifford
   
   Very nice [8D] [8D] .... how does it all feel now she's yours ? Have the family given her a name yet ? [:)]

[Emmanueld]

Clifford, Hi, if thats the case, it's probably fuel related, change and clean the filters, drain the tank and renew with clean fuel, clean the carb and it should run. You can inspect the tank through the fuel sender opening! It still might have to come out!
   
   Emmanuel

[cliffordl]

Played around with the ignition today, almost fell away into the dashboard. there is certainly an ignition switch problem - the key spins around with little connection (how does one get behind the centre panel?).
   
   In addition there is a further ignition switch operated by a key which sits below the dash behind the steering wheel - seems to be an early version of an immobiliser - again this needs careful fettling to allow the main ignition switch to work.
   
   On the brighter side the drivers window is now up - using the overide crank lever and pulling on the glass.

[Emmanueld]

On the brighter side, looking at the photo of your dash, it looks like a hybrid with the original style instruments (Mechanical gages exept for the tach) and newer rocker switches. I don't know if the switches are original, I have never seen it like that. The rear view mirror looks like a Series II E-type. Nice car!
   
   Emmanuel

[cliffordl]

Close up of dash centre on its way. Are the more usual toggle switches still available? Am awaiting my AC membership to come through and enable me to obtain a copy of the handbook to figure out what everthing is for.
   
   Emmanuel - thanks for the vintage car parts clue - have ordered two brackets. Any ideas for sourcing an electric window mechanism? and does that door trim just pop off?
   
   Clifford

[Emmanueld]

Clifford, I have not removed the door panels myself, I will ask the guy who worked on my car!
   
   Emmanuel

[david langford]

Hi Clifford!
   Congrats on car, looks much better than some of the descriptions i'd heard.
   I brought a coupe a couple of years ago that had been standing idle for a number of years (about 10 I think)and had to go through some problems similar to yours.
   I took out both tanks and had them cleaned because flakes of rust were making their way to the fuel pump and getting stuck in the one way valves which meant no petrol to the engine.
   I also installed a filter between the tanks and pump.  Even though the tanks had been cleaned the filter still became clogged with rust flakes, so for a stander this is probably worth while and much easier to change than the pump.
   On the door trims, after the handles have been removed, there should be one screw, then it is poppers all the way around.  Once these are released you lift the whole panel upwards to unhook it at the top.
   On another note it is worth getting the radiator checked out, as mine was silted up and they need no encouragement to overheat!
   Best of luck.
   Dave.

[david langford]

A footnote to last reply.If you have'nt removed door trims before, the poppers are best removed with a large flat screwdriver,one at a time.Insert between trim and door and twist.They can be sods.
   Dave.

[Emmanueld]

A little precision, the roadster has only one petrol tank located in the trunk. 2 bolts at the base of it behind and another 2 bolts at the front. You get to it by removing the panel behind the seats. The soft-top bay liner is actually glued at the top of the gas tank.
   
   To remove the tank:
   
   1, Remove the filler pipe, 4 bolts inside the filler door, loosen the 2 clamps and pull the unit.
   2, Disconnect fuel line and breather line.
   3, Gently remove padding at the top of the tank. (without ripping it)
   4, Remove panel behind the seats (2 screws at the bottom and 2 bolts in the soft top bay behind trim panel).
   5, Remove front and rear bolts, pull the tank out from the trunk.
   
   Emmanuel

[cliffordl]

Thanks for this advice. Fuel tank has been looked at and seems ok however time will tell.....as for the door trims - my suspicions of sodness are confirmed - the type that unless you are really really careful end up being damaged on removal and never quite going back in as well as they should.
   Progress to date has been good. CF25 went to my mechanic on Monday, with new points and condenser he got it up and running, on Tuesday he sorted the brakes and Wednesday (once two exhaust brackets were repaired) it passed the MOT. I'm told that it drives v.well however on return from MOT the rear axle started making nasty noises so that's being investigated today.
   I'm really hoping to get my hands on it for the weekend...and then I'll see what other issues occur.
   Meanwhile where in the UK should I go to for the ordinary engine/cooling parts?