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Wiring diagram

Started by David S, November 22, 2014, 14:39:04

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David S

So update is that having bought a set of Torx heads (£5 from e-bay) I have removed the MAF and cleaned the fine wire/filament - sad to say it did not need cleaning so the problem still exists.
   The car is presently with a Car Electrician who has sorted out the wiring from the Coil pack and is now looking at trying to get the front heated screen working.
   However, he has found that the drivers side window no longer works and I need to replace the motor - can anyone advise what window motor I need to purchase?

ACOCArch

quote:
Originally posted by David S
   
Battery test measures at 13.3v seems a light high for a 12v battery.

   
   A fully charged 12v battery, in good condition and disconnected, will give about 13.2v (6 cells in series at 2.2v each)

Nev

David S --> message sent

Mark IV

quote:
Originally posted by David S
   
So update is that having bought a set of Torx heads (£5 from e-bay) I have removed the MAF and cleaned the fine wire/filament - sad to say it did not need cleaning so the problem still exists.
   The car is presently with a Car Electrician who has sorted out the wiring from the Coil pack and is now looking at trying to get the front heated screen working.
   However, he has found that the drivers side window no longer works and I need to replace the motor - can anyone advise what window motor I need to purchase?
   

   
   I understand the motors are Ford and most likely Sierra units. The motor will have a Ford engineering number on it that can be crossed to a Ford service part number.

paho

.. I changed both motors on my Ace last year. I used the Ford part numbers, paper label on the motor casing, and found second-hand replacements from a Ford Scorpio/Granada (1994). My motors were Bosch, the Bosch part number was stamped in the metal cover; something like 0130821198. Its quite easily to cross-match the Bosch number to a Ford part number.
   BR /Paul
"Blessed are those that don't ask for they shall not receive"

David S

So update on the questions started back in Nov 2014.
   So on point 1 car is still not running very well now, having replaced the exhaust system,the manifold, removed the US smog re-circulation system - the cars performance did improve now from 201bhp to 280bhp. But continued to pink through the rev range, we concluded that the car is still running lean, so have now replaced the fuel pump with one three times the size (you will not believe how small the pump was that was removed from the fuel tank - will get a picture posted up of it some time soon), fuel filter increased, larger fuel lines and increased the injectors to 30lb. This resulted in lots of fuel - in fact to much, so gone from too lean to rich and managed to fail the MOT with a reading 3000% higher than the maximum CO2 reading allowed. We found that the throttle sensor is malfunctioning and may be causing part if not all of the problem, of course there were 3 types of Throttle sensor and the one fitted would of course be the rarest type, car now back with RW Racing to fit sensor and see of CO2 will drop. Of course the main concern is that the original supplied ECU from Ford was never able to accept the supercharger - therefore waiting the news that we need to replace the ECU and associated wiring. To be continued
   Point 2 - Rough idling was part of point 1 - car was running very lean and I mean very lean.
   Point 3 - the rev counter continues to fluctuate but now at approx. 3000 RPM, this is related to the malfunctioning throttle sensor so hopefully this problem will now be resolved.
   Point 4  - we traced the wires back and sorted out the coil pack - this first thing cleared from the list.
   
   Well maybe next year will be back on the road  - will update when I know more

Adrian_S

Hi David, my heart goes out to you. I too have a late series Ace V8 bought by a previous owner from AC Cars just after the Frimley fire, and finished privately (DE1102). The blueprinted niche line 4.6L quadcam ran like a bag of nails, poor starting, stalling in traffic, pinking, flat spots, stalling on the over run; horrible! Like you, in the absence of any OBD outputs I set about renewing various things (TPS, Idle valve, EGR and DPFE sensor, COPS and plugs, temp and lambda sensors, in-tank fuel pump etc etc). The last place I looked was the ECU. When I did, I found my car fitted with an aftermarket unit by British company 'DTA Fast'. It's an S80PRO unit. They sold me a USB cable for a laptop hook up and I downloaded their software and manuals for free. I found that my ECU had only a rudimentary set of values in the ignition and fuel maps and no refinements such as over run fuel cut off. Just about enough to get the engine to run. After much experimentation, I now have the engine running like a dream and ready for a final tune up by the professionals on a rolling road. In hindsight (!) I wished I'd looked at the ECU first before amassing a whole load of spare parts. I don't know if my story is relevant to your situation but a look in that direction is highly recommended. Best of luck and I hope you solve your problems one day soon!

David S

As an update, new Throttle sensor fitted whilst making a difference the engine is still not running correctly. We had a call with Peter Knight who had re-built a Supercharger engine and confirmed this is as far as he could get without changing the ECU. So as the ECU is the original Ford item with values which we cannot alter, the solution is a Motec ECU, new simple distributor and new wiring loom. So far this fits with the Cobra Superchargers except the moving of the Sensor. Lets see what happens when all rebuilt in 2017

David S

so never made 2017 completion but 1st month of 2018 we have finished getting the car working again. As a re-cap the car had a number of problems which required, up to end of 2016, a full exhaust system, removal of the US gas re-circulation system, the replacement of the fuel delivery system from the fuel pump to the injectors.

Part of these problems is down to the way AC built the supercharged engines which was just to bolt a supercharger onto an engine which meant to much air not enough fuel with a hard coded ECU unable to make the changes. The story is on the superblower AC owners club site.

So we have stripped out any electrical cabling that not required as AC took looms and just left cables in the car that were not required. We have had to get a car electrician to make the electrical cabling safe - he was surprised how bad the changes made to the cabling was and that the car had not caught fire  :o. Could be that S50ACE had the same problem as this car did catch fire.

We have installed a new ECU from MOTEC, replaced the sensors, coil packs and used an engine map from a Superblower that was rebuilt last year but to a much higher spec.  Retuned it on rolling road in Northampton and finally have a car that works - final output at the wheels is 298bhp/340 lbs torque and we have limited to 5500 revs following advise from Peter Knight.

So now I can start thinking about sanding down and re-painting the sub frames - when it is a bit warmer.

Shamea2

David

I'm pleased to see that everything has worked out. I've been following with interest.

Um, should I be concerned about the fire risk?

Nigel

David S

Hi Nigel,

Personnally I think it would be wise to have the electrics checked.

Do you know if your car has had the supercharger modifications?

David

Shamea2

David

I'm not aware of any modifications. But it had a number of owners so its possible, though unlikely i think. Are there any obvious signs?

Nigel

David S

Hi Nigel,

my car use to pink badly when under load (heavy acceleration), this was all done on a rolling road, in my case Northampton Motorsport.
I would suggest it is worth taking the car to a rolling road to check

David

Shamea2

David

Thanks for that, I will.

I had been thinking about putting it on a rolling road just for fun to check out the BHP.

Luckily I've had no problems with mine so far. Very smooth acceleration and good 'top & bottom end' power.

Nigel