What oils to use

[Exowner]

Hi All, My first post yielded zero responses, so I'm hoping for better luck this time with a new question.
   I need some advice on engine/gear box & differential oils.
   The info in the handbook is now 20 years old and I have been given so much conflicting advice that I don't know if I'm coming or going.
   My car is AK1500 1993 302 efi, T5 g/box & Salisbury LDS diff
   I've been advised to use anything from 5W/30 to 15W/60 in the engine, so I've no idea.
   As far as the gearbox is concerned, using ATF seems to be the way, but as I said, I'm confused.
   The Diff is the only thing I feel confident about going out and buying oil for, but as for whether or not to use any 'addative' ??Hopefully there maybe some good advice out there. Any help would be much appreciated.
   As there seems to be so much differing thought out there on oils, does most advice stem from what can be obtained cheaply or easily??? I have never scrimped on oils (I even changed engine oil after every race meeting back in the day). I want what's best, not what's cheapest. If it happens to be both then so much the better.
   
   I drove the car for the first time at the weekend since getting it in November. Compared with the ultralight things I've been used to in the past, it was like taking a very obedient Mastiff out for a walk for the first time when all my experience is with Terriers!!! I look forward to becoming more familiar with it.
   
   Are there any MklVs in the Bournemouth area or thereabouts?
   I'm Glenn Burnage, by the way, the AC Aceca Registrar (in case you were wondering)

[jbottini]

Crankcase: oil weight is dependant on temps where you live and proposed operating temps. A full snythetic is a safe bet and Ford HP filter (FL1HP) is the proper filter for engine. As to weight 5w-30 will suffice for normal spirited driving. T-5 has specific requirement and should be followed. The diff can be equated to modern iff lube( probably 80 weight) an d you MUST use a friction modifier.

[Exowner]

121 views and only one of you uses oil in your engine, gearbox and diff.(Many thanks Jbottini) Amazing. I know where to go for advice in the future!!!!!

[jbottini]

Glad to help. You slhould consider changing oil at least the oil every six months if use is minimal

[Mark IV]

quote:Originally posted by jbottini
   
Glad to help. You slhould consider changing oil at least the oil every six months if use is minimal
   

   
   I highly recommend "Extra Virgin" if not at least "first pressing"!!!!
   
   And good Balsamic will keep your chassis going for years!
   
   JB....Call me Saturday

[Hobo]

Look here for your T5, it may help, recommendation is ATF Dexron II :
   http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=1385305&d=0&nmt
   
   And this one for your Diff if it is a limited slip one (does not harm a non limited slip)
   http://www.limora.com/en/differentialol-26830.html
   
   However you can fill in other diff oil but add a friction modifier (best ask a Jaguar shop)
   
   The given recommendation for the engine is o.k.
   Use 5W30 or 10W40 or 0W40 and it will be fine. With only 5000 km per year I do only one oil-change per season.
   
   
   Welcome here (!) for further advise

[Exowner]

Many thanks 'H'

[Mark IV]

quote:Originally posted by jbottini
   
Glad to help. You slhould consider changing oil at least the oil every six months if use is minimal
   

   
   JBo's point is well taken. The idea of low miles use not requiring oil changes seems logical but in truth is opposite of such. Oil has corrosion inhibiters to prevent rust and rings sticking, etc. Low miles use means the oil does not get to operating temperature enough to "boil off" moisture and combustion by products. These then sit for long periods of time and do harm to the engine. Actually running oil in excess of the recommended change interval is likely less harmful than leaving low mile oil to sit for a year or better so long as the level is sufficient.
   
   When you store a vehicle do not start it for a couple of minutes and then shut if off to sit for months. You have just circulated moisture and corrosive materials throughout the engine! Unless you can bring it to full temperature for 15 minutes or better you are ahead NOT starting it!

[Hobo]

Low miles and low miles can be a big difference.
   
   If I go for a ride the minimum operation time is 1-2h /100 km or longer trips. Than car goes back for sleep.
   This will avoid any moisture in the oil in any case .  Seasonal oil change I do always at the end of the season before winter storage. This way of operation will not hurt the engine or its oil.
   
   This is very different story from only going 5 min to the ice bar 5 miles away 40 times a year or more worse let engine idle warm from time to time in your garage.

[Flyinghorse]

I gave these details to Glen in Dec last year:
   WIX oil filter--From Tim Green
   http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321058428906&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160
   
   Engine oil:
   Millers CFS 15w/60
   
   Diff oil  (Mines a Hydratrac-not sure what you will have (Salisbury?) This will work in either:
   Millers CRX LS 75W/140MT
   
   I get the oil from JJC race & rally and the parts are MOL111-5L  and MOL 1208-1L
   
   Be careful as the handbook diff oil quantity is wrong. Its about 1.25  litre
   
   Graham

[Exowner]

Many thanks to all who replied, especially Graham (I thought I'd lost your recommendations but found them eventually, thanks for the resend) and Jbottini, MarkIV and Hobo. All lubricants now purchased.

[Hobo]

Finally I found a source on your Island for the friction modifier for the limited slip diff - correct short Name : "Jaguar-Daimler Power lock differential additive":
   http://britishparts.co.uk/products/5421-differential-additive-JLM10814.
   Type in this PN: JLM10814
   
   Moreover, this is the main concern about use of full synthetic diff oil:
   
   "Note that while the diff can be topped up with conventional gear oil, a drain and refill requires an additive for limited-slip units.
   
   According to a salesman at Quality Jaguar, the XJ-S final drive unit uses both natural leather and natural rubber seals. Therefore, synthetic lubricants are NOT recommended. It is recommended that synthetics be avoided in the special additive as well."
   
   This is the reason why i stay away from "modern" synthetic oil in the gear box or diff - if it is not a modern device from the late 2000th. These old devices are designed for old fashioned oil and operate in millions of Units very well - why to change to a uncertain solution?

[B.P.Bird]

Martin, as I understand it the Jaguar additive is intended for use in diff's which have developed a 'notchy' or 'jerky' LSD action and the additive is not intended for routine use.
   See http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2756
   The high tech Millers gear oil which Graham mentions (Millers CRX LS 75W/140MT) is specifically for LSD applications which is what the 'LS' in the part number signifies.
   So far as leather seals are concerned I think they were replaced by synthetic nitrile lip seals in the '70s although that is not to say there are none still in use. In any event I have never experienced any problem with leather seals when using full synthetic oils. The thing that destroys the leather seals is high temperature and, on a Cobra, synthetic diff. oil will halve the running temperature.
   It seems to me that the oil technology has moved on a great deal and we should take advantage of the greater protections offered.

[jbottini]

Please please use Ford FL 1's HP if you are a spirited driver

[Hobo]

B.P.Bird:
   Yes, all this stuff is very britsh and you are playing a homegame. You should know it better than me.
   However I learned that all Jaguar Limited slip differential Need this friction modifier. Without you will destroy the limited slip function.
   I had a diff for overhaul with a Jag.-Specialist and it came back with this Little bottle to be filled in without any further comment.
   Regarding leather seals I believe they are not build in the 80th-90th diffs, however they talk also about "natural" rubber seals. I personaly can't differentiate between a natural rubber seal and a synthetic seal - its all black - therefore I would avoid full sythetic oil.