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History of AEX542

Started by AEX542, October 07, 2013, 18:25:46

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Aceca289

Austin,
   
   How many of the interior bits did you get in the deal? If I recall correctly from the e-bay listing, there didn't appear to be a lot to work with.
   
   John

AEX542

John,
   
   You are spot on, there were a couple of boxes of parts, but the list of parts that were missing was probably longer than the list of parts that it had. As far as the interior, I had a most of the dash, but only two partial gauges.  Luckily they saved the aluminum gauge shroud. I'll be posting some detailed pics of the interior build in a few days here.

B.P.Bird

Austin, fascinating to see your photographs. So much of this old soldier seems to have survived unmolested - those original speared and tapered Woodhead springs are lovely. Had a surprise when I saw the individual grease nipples for each needle bearing cup on the rear U.J.s that'll be 18 grease points on the drive shafts alone. Good idea nevertheless.
   The SBF will sorely test the ENV diff, rear flanges and hubs I fear. Those Alfin drums could be getting a bit warm too....

AEX542

Luckily for me (and my grease gun) that was just a little light trickery on the retainer ring on the outside of the cap that made it look like another grease fitting, but I did do a doubletake and go back and look at the car.  I thought I was going crazy for a minute.  To address your statement on the Rear end of the car in a very long winded way;
   
   When I purchased the car (sight unseen), we really didn't know what kind of shape it was in.  I found it on a website called bringatrailer.com that linked to its ebay page.  What I was most concerned about was having a clean body and at least mostly unmolested frame.  What I have been looking for for quite a while is an original Ace or Aceca that was rough enough, or missing enough to warrant not only a complete restoration, but a true resto mod, bringing its performance in braking, steering, and acceleration right in line or above  anything modern.  The drivetrain that I wanted to put in was a new 5.0 Coyote Ford motor, with a 6 speed and Ford IRS.  The goal was to use nearly all Ford components including the front and rear unequal length control arm suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, etc.  The width difference is dramatic to say the least, and custom aluminum fender flares would have to be moulded on and a considerable amount of the original body would be lost, as well as pretty much any portion of the frame that wasn't holding the body on.  Needless to say, this idea is quite blasphemous to some, but what I wanted was a car that really couldnt be brought back, or one that could but would require a rebody or so much work that its originality would already be lost.
   That was the plan, until we got the car.  It looked like it had been driven into a garage in Southern California, had the guts pulled, started to strip the body and forgotten for 40 years.  There wasnt a speck of rust (except for inside the gas tank) and the suspension and steering were not only salvageable but in fantastic shape. I had the entire body and frame soda blasted to try to find anything wrong that could justify such an aggressive modification, even getting so far as to start to mock up what would be required to get the rear subframe mounted in. I just couldnt bring myself to cut anything.
   While we were debating what to do with it, I received a package in the mail.   It was a forwarded package from the previous owner (from around 1971) it contained tons of hand written and typed correspondence between himself (A dentist in LA) and the AC factory, and original letters from the AC Owners club welcoming him to their community of 15 Members nationwide, with only 4 in Cali.
   The fact that we knew the original motor was long gone, and that it had a V8, but that too was long gone was one of the biggest reasons why we wanted such a radical build out of it.  After reading all the letters and information on it, we found out it had a Chevy 265 V8 (the first Chevy small block) sometime in the late 50's/early 60's, then was given up for a Ford 260 V8.
   After reading this, it just seemed wrong and cruel to do the resto-mod, especially because I already knew a guy who had a 64' Ford 260 for sale that came with the Borg Warner 4 speed.
   We changed our plans and started the build that you see now.
   I wanted to keep what we had intact and build around that base as cleanly as possible.  Everything about these cars is so beautiful in its simplicity, so I wanted to show off as much of that simplicity as possible.  The parts that were missing, I tried to recreate using the same handcrafted look that these cars originally had, but not being afraid to stray away from the original configuration of, say, switches or type of light, hence the modern headlights, amber turn indicators and Overrider bumpers moved closer to the body.
   Getting back to the rear end, prior to moving forward with the new plan, we pulled the rear diff, and inspected the guts.  All of the bearings were in fantastic shape, and luckily the bearing numbers still indented on them referenced over to modern bearings, I wish I could say the same for the Girling brake parts, those part numbers go off into oblivion never to be seen again.
   The 260 Ford puts out similar power to the Ruddspeed 2.6, and our goal was to not overbuild the motor for the chassis, specifically the brakes, which is why we chose not to go with a 289 or bigger.  The brakes were upgraded with larger capacity Wheel cylinders and a modern master cylinder, but as you've already stated, I think heat will be a bigger enemy to the car than stopping force.  but that will come down to the driver ;)

AEX542

Here is a shot of the new engine installed
   [/URL]

Aceca289

Hi Austin,
   
   Interesting story...thanks for sharing the details. The stories behind our cars is a great part of what makes the collector car hobby so enjoyable.
   
   PS  - Good choice on the color you used to paint your engine block. Black was the standard color for Ford V8s in the early 60s...you probably did the research before painting...if not, you lucked out.
   
   John

Laurence Kent

The Aceca is looking quite spiffy! Congratulations! I agree that the colour is nice! Will you be able to resist getting those same Mk II Cobra wire wheels but in chrome?...
   
   On another front, while a standard Ford 260 does put out similar horsepower to a Ruddspeed upper-stage Zephyr motor (some 160 bhp), it is the extra torque of the 260 that will really strain the original ENV differential...so I would recommend really monitoring it carefully quite regularly...because I am afraid it might eventually snap, with some spirited driving. The Alfins will get hot and be pushed to their limits, but I think they will hold. My tweaked Bristol-powered Ace has Alfins on all four wheels, which are still quite adequate despite 180 horsepower...although it is a lighter car than a V-8-powered Aceca. Should the worse come to the worse, you could always take care of any potential braking inadequacies with a TR-3 front disc conversion.
   
   My last comment concerns the Factory 5 Cobra "replica". I am glad you moved on to the Aceca, because that kit car was not even a true replica. The body of those Factory 5 cars, like most "replicas" around, has extra inches--at least three--added to the lower part of the body, which combined with a bigger, re-worked rear wing, gives the car a bloated and pregnant look that doesn't exist on the real cars. Those extra inches under the door area also cause a need to re-radius the wheel arches to accomodate the taller, non-original profile, making the car a "Cobra-inspired" car, as opposed to the "replica" that its manufacturers would like people to believe it is.
   
                    Laurence Kent

AEX542

Cobra inspired is definitely a better description of these cars. I only know of maybe two actual replica builders and both of them have pictures and serial numbers of the original cobra that was used to model the new bodies.  Thanks for the info on the front disc conversion, I didn't know the TR3 would fit, I'll look into that as a future option.

B.P.Bird

Austin, Everything you have posted is very interesting. Couple of, I hope helpful, points. All the Girling parts you need are available - I use Paul Hunt at Powertrack www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk. You can even get beautiful Alfin replica drums in the U.K. (at a price) should you crack the linings on yours. I will stand to be corrected, but I don't believe the TR3 disc brake will fit straight on - certainly the same Type B (or BR) caliper was used, but the Ace/Aceca/Mk.I Cobra used an A.C. disc. I think Gerry Hawkridge at Hawk cars does batches from time to time. Then of course you need the caliper carrier. Laurence is right: There is no problem with the drums if they are properly set up, but the energy has to go somewhere, in this case up the Fahrenheit scale.
   Hmm wider wheels? More grip equals more stress on the running gear, especially the transmission train - down to the driver: Which is where we came in.....

Laurence Kent

I mentioned the TR-3 disc brakes, because it is my understanding, and I too might stand to be corrected, that that's what AC used as an optional extra for those who wanted it on their Aces and Acecas as of the late fifties. I have a factory addendum to the workshop manual, showing the layout of the at-the-time newly available, optional disc brakes, and everything does look very TR-3...but perhaps someone else could shed some further light on this.

AEX542

Thanks so much for the heads up on those websites, I was familiar with hawk cars as I love their 289 body, but I didn't know they did batches of the AC discs. I had been petrified of cracking the linings on the drums as haven't been able to source spares.  My plan b for upgrading the brakes was to build custom caliper mounts then mount a set of Nissan non vented rotors that had perfect dimensions and spacing to fit behind the stock wheels. I really didn't want to see modern Nissan brakes threw the spokes. As far as the wheels, I had no desire to go wider, because as you guys have mentioned, wider tires=more stress. I did however switch to modern radial tires. Boy were they easier to balance. I had a set of new reproduction firestones on it, but I just didn't like the way it looked, and couldn't justify having lower performance tires it just for the sake of originality, especially with how many non original parts were already on it.



jrlucke

Hopefully it finally found a good home. It sold at Barret Jackson in January 2014 for $96,000 after being redone and was for sale in Hemmings in Ohio for $149,000 earlier this year.