AK 1106 rework ...

[westcott]

I changed steering wheel, steering column, column switches and heater controls. The 15" split rim steering wheel wood is more brown in reality, maybe I have to do some more realistic pictures and replace the actual ones.
The MG B air distribution control was updated by me with an chromed bezel to match the small gauges.
For the wiper, wash and heater motor functions I installed Lucas switches.
The wiper and heater motor switches are mounted to the dash via circular stainless steel adapter plates covered with the same leather as the instrument panel.

Behind all 3 openings I had to remove the U shaped brackets riveted to the dash, normally keeping the Mercedes Benz controls in place.

Everything works. 

[westcott]

The column switch and locking unit fits (more or less) inside the original dash cutout

[westcott]

That was the first rough layout to see if the VW lock,housing and SD1 spindle would line line up somehow.

[1985 CCX]

Lots of great work and inspiration here. 
Love the post...

[westcott]

Lots of great work and inspiration here. 
Love the post...

Thx Jeff,

I try to share technical details and infos about our cars and some of my modifications with other owners.

[jmohara]

Uwe,
Do you have some more details on this - the parts you used?
Thanks
M

During the last few weeks I installed the exhaust system with two catalytic absorbers and the 4 silencers normally included in a MK IV with dual rear exhaust.
   
   The clutch system is changed to hydraulic actuation by the following steps.
   
   1. Installing a CNC Inc. slave cylinder with bracket to the side of the T5
   2. Replace the cable clutch pedal by a pedal from a 90s Mondeo
   3. Installed a 3/4 inch Girling master cylinder with integrated tank, extended/replaced the Girling push rod by a Ford Transid pushrod mounted to the original position.
   The cutouts and holes for the cylinder are prepared by the company in the front metal reinforcement inside the drivers footbox. I just had to drill the GRP of the foot boxes
   4. Used Dash 4 reusable aluminum fittings for brake or clutch lines and stainless braided teflon tube
   
   All fits together but it s still not filled with fluid, a travel stop for the pedal has to be made too.
   
   All the clutch system changes are done by clipping or screwing parts together. Fabrication is needed for the travel stop and eventually the pushrod.
   
   I'll keep you updated.
   
   Westcott

[westcott]

Today the situation is a bit different. I collected a different slave and master combination for more piston travel, the pedal is still the same.

The update will be done during the winter.

I will check for part numbers and other details next week as soon as I'm back from Turino. 

Uwe

[jmohara]

Thanks Uwe - let me know - we can do it in parallel!
M

[westcott]

It's been a long time without an update but now the last parts of the frog have been revised.

Last year we visited the ECM in Inzell and while driving up to the Großklockner we heard familiar noises coming from the rear drive train.

The drive shaft on the left side has always had a bit of play, but the many curves and uphill climbs have made the situation worse.

In the evening, water stains could also be seen under the radiator in the hotel's underground car park. So: drive shafts and the radiator need to be reworked.

The drive shafts were manufactured by the Welte company in Hockenheim. The result is perfect.
The universal joints were replaced with reinforced joints and the splined shaft parts were completely rebuilt. Waiting time was a week with regular updates by email.

To remove the drive shafts, I always remove the upper wishbones from the axle support. The rubber sleeve of the universal joint usually needs to be replaced. We'll get to that later.

Here we have the new drive shafts ready for assembly:

[westcott]

Let's move on to installing the rubber sleeve and the spacers on the side of the universal joint. Here I have developed 3 extremely expensive special tools that save me time and money. But you know good tools come at a price.

The first two extremely expensive special tools were made from a cleaning rag. Both strips are inserted through the smaller opening at the front, one comes out at each side opening of the rubber.


Now the universal joint is greased and the two strips are each gripped with one hand, thereby expanding the rubber. When the expansion is greatest, the rubber with the two strips is then lifted under tension over the universal joint. Twist 90 degrees and you're done. 1 minute work without damaging the rubber.

[westcott]

The next extremely expensive special tool helps to replace 2 additional hands when the spacer bushes are positioned on the left and right of the universal joint and everything is to be mounted together in the upright.

A 16mm ABS round material is slotted lengthwise in the middle with the saw to make the diameter resilient.

Then it is filed with a file into a polygon (almost round) that can clamp the bushings and can be mounted through the u jount with a little pressure.

Then the pin is pressed through the U-joint and the bushings are mounted on both sides without damaging the rubber. Be careful not to crush the rubber between the bushings and U-joint.

Then mount the upper wishbone end in the upright, position it and press out the pin with the screw.

Done, no damage to the rubber and a lot of nerves saved.

Here you can see the ABS pin with the clamping spacer bushes that have been pushed on as a test

[westcott]

The next to do is the radiator. The 5-row radiator mesh was completely replaced by a mesh in which the water-carrying tubes are not in direct alignment behind each other but are always offset. This means that cooling air flows directly on to all the tubes from the side, which increases effectiveness.

In addition, the fan switch installation was changed from the pushed in solution with a plastic bayonet to a current commercially available screw solution in order to be able to use many possible M22x 1.5 mm switches with different temperature ranges.

Fan switch is now a normal M22 x 1.5 single stage. Switching points are 85 -75°C

Note the detail work by the radiator company, they masked the Serck plate before painting.  8)