AK 1106 rework ...

[French Frie]

Dear Uwe,
   
   As already requested, please share your sourcing for those parts, as I plan to do the same myself ... Thanks ! It will be very useful ...

[westcott]

The PU bushings I use are from Energy Suspension in the US, see:
   
   www.energysuspensionxd.com
   
   The part number for the rear set is : 4.3125G, FRT OR RR CONTROL AR,
   
   The kit contains 16 bushing, enough for 1 car front and rear replacement.
   
   I ordered via Ebay and it took me 5 weeks because they were out of stock, just allow for longer delivery as ebay limits or find them online at race shops in the US like this:
   
   http://performanceparts.com/part/Energy-Suspension/4.3125G?confirmmobile=yes

[French Frie]

Great Uwe (even if the website seems to be down )! How did you manage to find the right parts ?

[westcott]

here is the new webside:
   
   http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.3125&PARTNER=Adwords&gclid=CMzbzKC01LQCFYMXzQod0DoAHA
   
   To be honest I found the parts via Google and ordered 2 Sets, may be the would fit by chance.
   
   And they fit, the only difference are the inner metal tubes. The original Metalastic bushes have one metal tube per rubber part.
   I will post the numbers of the rubber bushings here as well.
   
   The new ones have one inner metal tube going through two PU parts, it has to be shortened. The supplied parts are 48mm and have to be turned down to 46mm length.

[French Frie]

Ok ... The http://energysuspension.com/ website is working, and I fund the ref you mention... On AC Cobra title ! Great ...
   
   

[French Frie]

Ooops... You answered in between [;)] !

[westcott]

If you follow this link you will be connected to a dealer and the parts directly:
   
   http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.3125&PARTNER=Adwords&gclid=CMzbzKC01LQCFYMXzQod0DoAHA

[westcott]

By the way, if you need new rod end bearings save some money, they are about 180€ each here in Germany.
   The rod end bearings are marked RMC-10U, the following details describe them:
   
   Part Code: RMC-10U
   Manufacturer: NEUTRAL
   Description
   Also known as RM10T, 5/8" x 3/4" UNF Male RH PTFE.
   
   The rod ends and the Dust Caps you can find at different race shops for example here at ISA-Racing in Germany, the part number at the shop are : 6145-1 and RRS 08
   
   http://www.isa-racing.com/product_info.php/info/p5651{145}2073_NMB-Hochfeste-Fahrwerksgelenke--Zollma-e--Au-engew---Rechts.html
   
   http://www.isa-racing.com/product_info.php/info/p11561_Koplettabdeckung-fuer-Zoll-Gelenke.html

[French Frie]

180€ ??? in what way do they differ from "standard" rod ends, as MGB ones for example ?

[westcott]

The ones for 180€ are race parts made from high-tensile steel, for sure you can get cheeper ones.

[dkp_cobra]

quote:Originally posted by westcott
   
The PU bushings I use are from Energy Suspension in the US, see:
   
   www.energysuspensionxd.com
   
   The part number for the rear set is : 4.3125G, FRT OR RR CONTROL AR,
   
   The kit contains 16 bushing, enough for 1 car front and rear replacement.
   
   I ordered via Ebay and it took me 5 weeks because they were out of stock, just allow for longer delivery as ebay limits or find them online at race shops in the US like this:
   
   http://performanceparts.com/part/Energy-Suspension/4.3125G?confirmmobile=yes
   
   
   

   
   Now, also available via Summit:
   
   http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-4-3125g

[westcott]

Short update on the Atomic topic. Today I got hold of a used MK IV fuel tank with mounted sender.  I did this  because I expect some fuel problems with the returnless system sitting in heavy traffic during the upcomming summer.
   
   Even MSD recommends strongly to mount the fuel pump in the tank in their new manual actual available.
   
   So I spend a few Euros and got myself this MK IV tank today. It will be used to create a pickup keeping the pump and filter sock in place and a little sump around the sock. The whole thing must fit into the given sender hole in the tank.
   
   After the modification is done finally it will be easily possible to do the tank or pickup change within a weekend at the end of this season.
   
   That's the plan...

[westcott]

The rear suspension parts like PU bushings and dust caps are replaced. Pics to follow until end of this week.
   
   I started to disassemble the complete rear suspension without going into the hub assembly because there is no need to do it.
   
   First i removed the lower damper screw then the upper one, you can remove the fully extended complete damper unit without adjusting the spring height.
   
   The supplied bushing kit has 8 tubes going through one pair of PU bushings.
   These tubes are a bit too long and need to be turned down.
   
   If not the step washer ( in case of the MK IV a cylindric thick washer)will sit borderline in the outer frame brackets and could jump out if the whole thing is stressed.
   
   The dimension must be 46mm with a negative tolerance about 0.5 mm.
   
   The rear upper a-arms, if fitted with the "inner" 2 PU bushings, have a very tight fit when you mount them back to the frame brackets.
   
   After the a-arm was back in position I added the outer bushings with the inserted tubes, everything coated with petroleum jelly. The inserts can be placed in position through the step washer opening in the frame brackets.
   With the long screws you can guide and press the inserts in position easily.
   
   The dust cap for the ball joint was stretched with long needle hosed pliers. The caps are made from neoprene and are very flexible if heated up a bit.
   
   I kept the metal bushings originally glued to the sides of the caps, cleaned them and held them in place by hand during assembly.
   
   Before final assembly i put some moly grease in the caps.
   
   Then the lower tie rods where disassembled, the damaged caps removed,the ball joints checked, cleaned and new caps with grease fitted as before to the upper a-arm.
   
   The half shafts where removed, checked, cleaned, the seals checked and cleaned. The splines where greased, the shafts assembled and mounted back in position.
   
   The uprights are checked for bearing play and wear, cleaned and put back in place.
   
   The Konis are cleaned, checked for leaks and the piston rods checked for scratches or other damage.
   
   They are fine, no leaks, no damages. After a short conversation with Koni they explained that in theire opinion there is no need for a rework until you don't have any leaks.
   
   In case of a rework the dampers need to be sent to Koni for a close inspection, if the piston rod is scratched or damaged it is gainless and a replacement is less cost effective they explained.
   
   Btw, the dampers are not longer available, I found one source in the US offering 2 NOS parts with the correct number for 427 rear suspension. They are are about USD for one!
   
   
   To be continued....

[Flyinghorse]

The Koni Dampers can be rebuilt in the UK,a couple for places do it. That's whats on my CRS and they were rebuilt.
   
   Grahanm

[westcott]

Graham, the shops here can do it as well, but Koni explained if the rod is damaged it would be too  expensive and gainless. Mine do not show any wear or damage, so I will check the car on a test rig during the summer.
   
For the PU bushing replacement i promised some pictures:
   
Here a comparison between original bushings on the left and the PU inserts on the right.
The originals have 1 integrated metal tube per bushing, the PU parts share 1 tube per pair.