AK 1106 rework ...

[westcott]

Spring is coming and some mods have to be done for the season:
   The tank needs a Dash-6 male welded in for the Atomic fuel return line.
   I disassembled the seats, rear fire wall and tank, cutted a hole in the tank to weld in the Dash-6 fitting.
   
   The "Frog" will get a oil cooler and thermostat as well and i decided on a 16 row series 6 unit, 52mm deep, 123mm high and 330mm wide.
   
   It is the same unit i used on my Clevelands and on the 433 FE, so it should work.
   
   Pictures of modification, oil lines and installation will follow.
   
   Is the oil cooler on original equipped cars somehow screwed or fixed through the body in the oil cooler opening and can someone post a picture of a original fixation and installation?
   
   I have my own ideas but want to do it in the same way the OEM did it.
   
   Thanks, Uwe

[westcott]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by westcott</i>
   

   The "Frog" will get a oil cooler and thermostat as well and i decided on a 16 row series 6 unit, 52mm deep, 123mm high and 330mm wide.
   
   It is the same unit i used on my Clevelands and on the 433 FE, so it should work.
   
   Pictures of modification, oil lines and installation will follow.
   
   
   
   <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
   
That's the assembly  i put together for the relocation of the big oil filter. It is parallel to the engine now and a thermostat sandwich plate is fitted between the Ford Motorsport 90° adapter and the engine block.
   
The shroud was assembled with clecos to get it more easy in place and out if needed untill it fits  finally.
   
   

[westcott]

I have to go for TÜV approval in September and want to prepare the car for it.
   
   For every unforseen case i want to store some spares now and need to buy tie rod ends or track rod ends.
   
   What make are the tie rod ends, still modified MG as ist was with the early cars?
   
   My 1985 AK 1106 has the MK 2 coil spring chassis suspension with the round tube wishbones in front not the box section ones.

[ak1040]

Hi  Uwe just doing AK 1040 will let you know which parts we used soon as . Neil

[westcott]

Hi Neil,
   
   perfect, thanks!
   
   We and 1106 are still in Spain, the clutch release bearing starts to make some noise and vibration hopefully it will last for TÜV check end of next week.
   
   The hydraulic clutch pedal adaption was the only quick and dirty solution i put in the car and now after 3 years it s going to remind me about that.
   
   Next week i know if the TÜV engineer found fault with the rod ends...
   
   Uwe

[AC Ventura]

Hi, I'm looking at a Keith Craft 331/347 for my std MK IV and not sure on carb or EFI, so can I ask you some questions please?
   
   Was the 331 the right choice over the 347 do you think?
   Has the MSD Atomic EFI been reliable?
   What highway and city mpg or  km / litre do you get, now the motor has been well used?
   Did you keep the T5 transmission and if so, has that been okay?
   What was the final hp and torque?
   Are you happy with the change and do you have any further advice?
   
   Many thanks!

[westcott]

I don't like the 347 because of the oil ring solution in most combinations.
   
   Keith himself did not recommend the 347 for street use because of the possible oil ring problems with some rod/crankshaft combination were the oil ring groove is opened for the piston pin bore.
   
   Until today the engine runs great, good torque from the bottom end, no problems at all. I allways order short blocks and do the assembly by myself after a combination i define a few month before.
   
   I simulated different cam, head and intake options for a very flat torque curve extended by the hp curve.
   
   After years with high reving, high compression Clevelands i decided to go the higher torque route after my last Ford FE built.
   
   
   If you want more hp at the top end i would recommend to go one or two performance steps up for the camshaft without so much loss of every day drivebility.
   
   But then it needs a little bit higher intake what i wanted to avoid.
   
   The Atomic run great after MSD distributed the final run in process, which is not part of the manual till now.
   
   For real power i have no idea, must be around 300 hp at the rear wheel, i really don't care about because it is enough to keep lighter chevy LT1 engine powered replicas behind me  :-)
   
   Fuel consumption i assume around 11-12 liters per 100 km at normal use. The T5 in the MK IV is normally a WC and can cope with the 302/ 331 power.
   
   For me at the moment there is no need to replace the transmission for a tremec tko or other.
   
   I have to get the T5 out because of a defective release bearing. The former owner did not care about the car so mutch and the T5, if out for the bearing replacement, will be given to a friend of mine for a complete check to be ready fof the next 25 years...

[westcott]

I allways use ARP high quality studs for mains and heads instead of bolts and a oil pump with rotor guide in the bottom plate, the so called race pumps and high quality drive shaft.
   
   My favorite supplier is Precision Oil Pumps in the US.

[AC Ventura]

Thanks Uwe,
   
   I am pleased to hear the 331 has good low end torque that's what I require, not top end. I presume compression is 10:1 and you are using hyd roller, AFR 185 heads with 2.02/1.6 vales. Also that the T5 is a good plan. Did you keep standard clutch actuation, or modify/hydraulic?
   Did you have any problems with vacuum for the brakes? If no problem, the cam must be minimal overlap and in that case, were you happy with the sound at idle?
   My only other option is a big project to fit the 427 FE. I have found a 1960s example. But it means footwell modifications, exhaust and heat will be a real problem to solve, not so good around corners and really just using the car for special occasions.
   If your prefer you can PM me on my email address on my profile.

[westcott]

The cam i used is a mild one compared to the cams in my former engines and has the following #:
   
CompCams 53-514-8
   
The pic is a screenshot out of my simulation.
   
It feels like the graph is close to reality:
   

[westcott]

quote:Originally posted by ak1040
   
Hi  Uwe just doing AK 1040 will let you know which parts we used soon as . Neil
   

   
   Neil,
   
   do you have the specifications / sources for the MK IV tie rod ends available now? I need to replace my parts because of german TÜV approvel soon.

[westcott]

Back to the transmission topic i asked for in a other thread.
   
   Yesterday i started to investigate a way o disassemble the transmission without pulling the engine.
   
   That's the way i did it:
   
   - loosen the screws at the connection between header and elbow tube to allow some rotation/movement
   - drain the transmission fluid
   - remove gear lever knob
   - disassemble the 4 seat runner screws from the passenger seat (LH drive) to the main frame, move the seat a bit outboard or remove seat to get space for transmission tunnel removal
   - remove transmission tunnel srews, pull the handbrake leaver, remove the transmission tunnel, take care of the shifter and brake boot, cut the cable ties inside the boots
   - disconnect all electrical connections(2 plugs) and speedo cable from the transmission
   - remove the screws from the lower aluminum kick panel behind the seats to get space for drive shaft disassembly
   - remove the 4 bolts from drive shaft to differential flange
   - remove drive shaft, move it foreward to get some play to diff flange, tilt it to one side and then go rearward passing the side of the diff flange
   - support transmission from below
   - remove the 2 screws from transmission to the transmission crossmember from below
   - remove the 2 bolts from transmission crossmember to main frame
   - push out the transmission crossmember to below
   - tilt engine and transmission smoothly that the transmission end points down, maybe it is necessary to loose the engine mounts before to allow movement
   - remove 4 bolts from transmission to bell housing
   - slide out the transmission and support it not to bend the pressure plate arms
   
   Finished, it sounds easy but need the car jacked up or beeing on a ramp with access and room enough to move the transmission below.
   
   It is not so easy to remove the transmission because of the ears comming from the main frame to connect the transmission crossmember.
   
   I had some noise comming from the release bearing together with rattling and vibration if the clutch was not pressed.
   
   The reason for the noise and vibration was a broken spring in the clutch fork. That spring normally keeps the release bearing from vibration.
   
   It broke and slipped off the release bearing cage misaligning the cage a bit at every clutch pedal use.
   
   The release bearing inner bore started to wear irregular and the final result, a bigger, uneven play between the bearing and the pilot tube on the transmission did the rest.
   
   
   Now the transmission is out and need a pilot tube or release bearing retainer replacement. I will check the internal status of the transmission and rework the bearings, gears and synchro rings if needed.
   
   Pictures to follow.
   
   Hope that helps if someone need to get out the transmission and don't want to pull the engine.

[westcott]

quote:Originally posted by ak1040
   
Hi  Uwe just doing AK 1040 will let you know which parts we used soon as . Neil
   

   
   Thanks Neil, got the parts .

[westcott]

My car has the later exhaust system comming with the EFI cars now and need some attention.
   
The exhaust hangers getting brittle and hard, they have to be replaced.
   
The parts are also used for MASERATI 5000, 3500GT, 3500 VIGNALE SPIDER TOURING,FERRARI 250GT, 275GT, 275, 365, DAYTONA 330, LAMBORGHINI 400GT, ESPADA, JARAMA S, ISLERO or MIURA.
   
Two of them are needed behind each muffler so 4 are one "car set".
   
20 hangers are bought via ebay from Maseratisource in the US.
   
This amount should be enough to service the car as long as I'll able to turn screws.
   

[westcott]

Comming back to the brakes topic, i collected some pictures of MK IV brake calipers rear and front. The front one is AP i think, the rear one maybe Ford, both combined with hat/bell and motorsport disk ring.
   
What is the material of the bell, aluminum or steel?
   
For the front i have a spare set of original later disks and BMW calipers, everything is fine.
   
The rear Peugeot units need some tlc, unfortunately the parts are not longer available.
   
So for the rear calipers i want to change to the units shown in the pictures, they look like Ford Sierra Cosworth calipers.
   
Who can confirm my assumption ?