BE 646

[dkp_cobra]

With the new sub-structure the last two tubes connecting the upper with the lower sub-frame could be replaced. The right was corroded from inside and the left ..., well one more or less tube doesn't make a difference.
   
   
   
   Now, with so many parts replaced it is interesting to know whether some old parts still fits. Let's make a little test.
   
   
   
   Doesn't look so bad even in the details.
   
   
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

I am sure that one day this car will have seats. Maybe this will take 20 years but one day ...
   
   ... and then I need cross bracing for the seat runners.
   
   
   
   
   
   I used an additional cross bracing in the rear part so there is no need to fix the runners at the rear section of the sub frame. The original frame is open but my construction is closed.
   
   The wood at the B column is fixed with two sheet metal screws using a little pice of wood to get the right alignment.
   
   
   
   I am sure that this simple solution can be make much more complex with this brace
   
   
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

A great day today. The rear sub frame is finished and ready for welding to the main frame.
   
   
   
   Always a little thrill to weld already painted tubes. The colour tends to burn if the tubes become to hot [ :-\]
   
   But I managed it:
   
   
   
   and the alignment seems to be ok so far
   
   
   
   The wood structure between this sub frame and the rear aluminium is normally screwed from top to bottom through the wood into the upper tube. Since I have still the aluminium skin above the wood I cannot do this. I will screw from bottom to top through the tubes into the wood. Here, the problem can be that the tube can be crumpled by the screws. To avoid this I welded some small (6mm) tubes into the cross tube to pass the screws through.
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

After stop working for two mounth due to other important projects I am back now. Where should I start after such a long time? I decided to improve something I thought it is already finished: the engine mount [:o)]
   
   The modification are four bolts connecting the upper and lower braces.
   
   
   
   This courses holes in the frame
   
   
   
   These are not only holes but I welded tubes inside so the bolts cannot deform the main tubes. Sorry for the bad picture, I didn't manage to connect this low-cost endoscope to my computer. What you can see are tubes not the bolts.
   
   
   
   I hope that this sub project is really finished now.
   
   
   
   And if you lost the overview about the different stages of engine mount, here is a picture of the engine mount cemetery.
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

We learned from Rob the the NZ standard for a driveshaft safety loop is a 50x6 mm flat bar (http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2919&whichpage=5). Well, easy to buy but how can I bend this?
   
   With a piece of pipe of the right dimension
   
   
   
   with some internal reinforcement
   
   
   
   and a modified pipe bender from our friends from far east
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   I am satisfied with the result
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

Now, it's in the car
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

Personally, I think wood is a nice material for a dash board but not anywhere in the context of the frame. Over the years the water destroys the wood. I decided to replace the wood in the section of the rocker panel by metal. In the front is the panel sheet, in the background the old wood block.
   
   
   
   The new construction is much more stable, with the right paint more water resistent and it is lighter.
   
   
   
   
   
   and welded to the frame
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   That's it. Time to decorate the Christmas tree.

[dkp_cobra]

The new year starts with a setback. When I replaced the lower part of the B-column I had to cut the tube connecting the A- and B-column at the B-Column. Welding it again I aligned this tube with the main tube.
   
   
   
   The result is that the rear end of the door sill doesn't fit any more.
   
   
   
   This tube must be welded at a much higher place at the B-column. After re-placing it the gap looks much better.
   
   
   
   Also the lhs door nearly fits.
   
   
   
   The big gap on the right side (the rear of the door) is forced by the  left rear wing which was replaced in a wrong way in the past.

[dkp_cobra]

I think ever Aceca owner knows the problem: by the time the door hinges worn out. Additional to that my hinges were strongly modified during the time.
   
   
   
   I found steel hinges with a 8 mm pin instead of the 1/4" pin. You can see them in the middle. They are wider and undrilled ...
   
   
   
   ... and a little bit higher ...
   
   
   
   ... and due to the bigger pin also thicker.
   
   

   But they fit fine at the frame.
   
   
   
   But due to the bigger thickness the door moves more to the rear side.
   
   
   
   Since I have to rework both doors this problem should be easy to fix.

[dkp_cobra]

New covers for the B-column:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

[BE774]

Lovely pictures and a great thread showing your restoration. Much appreciated!

[Robin A Woolmer]

I researched a source for  some brass hinges for a Greyhound Owner they can supply brass blanks for you to drill or they will with a charge drill them to drawing, I sent the catalogue to Steve Hall so if you need another source maybe you can contact Steve.
   
   Robin

[dkp_cobra]

The riddle of the week: where are these panels located in a Aceca?
   
   
   
   Time for guessing is runing out when the glue is dried.
   
   

[Klassik Metall]

The panels behind the B post. Normally just made from plywood, they allow the rear quarter panel return to be fixed with short panel pins.

[dkp_cobra]

Uh, we have a winner ...