BE 646

[dkp_cobra]

I think I found a position for the upper and lower steering shafts:
   

   

[dkp_cobra]

Fixing the upper steering column position I can start building a new dashboard.
   
   The old is nearly dilapidated and a swap from right to left hand is necessary. The old dashboard:
   

   

   
   The new dashboard in the heavy duty version:
   

   

   
   The modification is a shift of the steering column position of 20 mm to the side:
   

   
   One can see that the bend of the upper part is stronger at the sides:
   

[dkp_cobra]

First try of a lightweight version of the dashboard:
   

   
   Time for alluminium:
   

   

   
   Beating out:
   

   

   

   

   
   Now, it's time for a professional panel maker to sharpen the lower part and to weld all together.

[Gus Meyjes]

Peter, You're an artist! What a fabulous thread of your restoration!
   
   Keep it coming!
   
   Gus

[dkp_cobra]

The glove box (must be welded)
   

   

   
   and the last upper mounting bracket of the differential:
   

   

   
   (and a view from below)
   

[Gus Meyjes]

Peter, you've come a long way in 2 years! What a job! I was just looking at the fit of your headers. If you decide to use a heat wrapping, consider some additional space. This stuff works great in keeping the engine bay cooler, but is adds thickness to the pipe diameter.
   
   Gus

[dkp_cobra]

Finally, the upper differential mounting bracket is finished:
   

   
   It started with this idea:
   

   
   Welding was not so easy. During welding the complete bracket has to been fixed to keep the surface planar:
   

   

   
   Other building lot: I don't now why there is a big slice missing in the main instrument bracket
   

   
   I think it is zinc diecasting and my welder told that I should try fluid metal. This is a kind of two-component adhesive containing metall dust. When it is hardened you could machine it like normal metal.
   
   First a small piece of aluminium
   

   
   closing the hole
   

   
   Two small aluminium plates above and below give more strength
   

   

   
   I could grind it like the normal metal and even after sand blasting everything was fine
   

   

   
   Should be strong enough to be covered by leather ...

[nikbj68]

quote:Originally posted by dkp_cobra I don't now why that there is a big slice missing in the main instrument bracket

   Would that be were the trip counter reset comes down? I hope you don`t have to drill it out after such a nice repair! [:(]

[B.P.Bird]

And the clock reset I seem to remember ?

[Klassik Metall]

The cutout is for the clock and trip meter resets. However, from your earlier postings it looks like your speedo and tacho are from a series 1  Jaguar E type so I guess the cutout is now redundant.

[dkp_cobra]

Thank you all for your input. Interesting, that this hole was really intended.
   
   Well, I have no original instruments and my plan is to use a new Smith set. The mechanical speedometer has a reset but this need a small hole to mount it. So I have to drill a small hole anyway.

[dkp_cobra]

A new handbrake lever (stainless steel, below; above, the original chromed version):
   

[nikbj68]

quote:Originally posted by dkp_cobra: And now something completey new: a picture quiz. What will this be at the end?
   
   

   
   Possibly a handbrake, made of Stainless steel? [:o)]

[dkp_cobra]

This was a bittle bit too easy now, wasn't it [:)]

[nikbj68]

Maybe! [;)] I like the slight redesign of the plate, it looks like the angle onto the shaft will make it a lot stronger than the original.
   Thanks again for your excellent updates!