Nose Extension framework bracket ID

[pjbowman]

Jerry, you are correct regarding the tool roll for the Ace, and the board for the Aceca. I talked to Ron Leonard about this in the past, and he confirmed this fact. And also that the tool rolls for the Aces tended to be 'liberated' before the cars ever left the dealers! I do have an original AC parts list that lists all the tools for the Aces and Acecas (tools differ by engine), if anyone is interested I could scan and post a copy of the page with the tool info.
   
   Peter

[aex125]

Peter (pls01),
   Great picture of the center link and the connections. On you car it looks to be a very tight space to get the crank in. I happened to be working on the center link on 1078 today and so was checking the setup on 125 and found it differs slightly from your car. On 125 the arm going from the steering box to the center link attaches on the bottom side of the center link, not the top as you picture seems to show. If it was attached from the bottom, there would probably be much more clearance, but maybe the steering box mount on AC and Bristol engined cars will not allow for it to be attached on the bottom?
   Great discussion on the crank and it uses. I have always used the starter "bump" method or rolled the car while in gear to get the engine into valve adjustment location. Having a crank to do it sounds like a much easier approach.
   Jay

[pls01]

Well, I learned something new.  Thanks to Jerry and Gary C.  The crank does fit through when the wheels are turned just slightly to the right on this LHD car.  I eye-balled it an thought it wouldn't fit so never used it.
   
   
   The handle just fits between the ball joints.
   
   
   This will make it much easier to set the valves and the static ignition timing.
   
   In the past, I had considered putting the link from steering box into the bottom of the center pivot to gain some room for the handle.  However, the hole in the pivot is tapered from the top to mate with the ball joint so it can't be assembled any other way
   Thanks again
   Peter

[59 Aceca]

On AEX 734, the crank is stored in the engine compartment.  I presume this was the case for all Acecas?
   
   
   
   Greg

[pjbowman]

That would make sense, since there's no room in the boot on the Acecas. AEX672 is missing it's crank, so can't verify.
   
   Peter

[aex125]

pls01 Peter,
   Interesting item on the taper on your center link being from the top. On 1078 (and I assume 125) the taper is from the bottom. In going through old pictures, it looks like all of the Bristol cars have the knuckle topside, while the AC engined cars (only have 3 to check) have it on the bottom. Was the center link different between the AC and Bristol engined cars?
   Jay

[aex125]

This probably falls into the category of who cares for most people, but I asked Ron Leonard about the drag link attachment to the cenetr link for Bristol and AC engined cars. He said while he had not made a connection between the draglink attachment for the different engined cars, Aces definitely came both ways. He also said the drag link is bent slightly for those cars that attach from the bottom, and since the AC engines had a double crankshaft pulley, it might make sense that their drag link be mounted from the bottom for clearance reasons.
   Jay

[nikbj68]

I wonder if vulnerability/accessibility of the grease nipple or a higher likelyhood of water getting into an upside down balljoint could have had any influence on it migrating to top fitting?
   It does seem logical to mount it from below to allow clearance for the starting handle, with no clearance issues for the Bristol engine retaining the upward fitting , the only other thing I can think of is that it would be preferable to not have the dog-leg in the link arm.

[pls01]

The thread has taken an winding path since Jay's original post on the nose extension bracket.
   
   Question: When the drag link is on the bottom of the center pivot, are the tie rods also on the bottom of the center pivot?
   
   Putting the drag link on the bottom doesn't change the steering geometry.  It does bring the drag link slightly closer to the frame tube and lower control arm mount.  A bend may improve this clearance while keeping the ends properly aligned.
   
   Putting the tie rods on the bottom changes the steering geometry and the bump steer characteristics.

[aex125]

Peter, This thread has definitely taken a windy path, but it has also followed what I have been working on so it has been beneficial to me. I guess its OK to hijack my own thread when needed [;)]. As for the tie rod location, on my cars and the pics I have seen, they remain attached on the top and it is only the drag link that changes position.
   Jay

[aex125]

Peter (Bowman one),
   Just a quick resurrection on this thread; you ask about where to get a starting crank. Not sure if it would be the same, but noticed Moss Motors has one for MGAs. They only have a drawing on their web site (P/N 386-100) but it might be close if not exact. Since it is not cheap (around $60), I could go by Moss next week (I work about 2 miles from their local store) and check it out or take a picture if you would like.
   Jay