AE547 Aceca

[Aceca289]

quote:Originally posted by lew
   
A lot of banging and clattering from the back,almost as if the diff was falling out

   Lew,
   
   My Aceca had a loud clunk coming from the rear end (mainly when starting out in 1st after backing up) and general chatter and rattles when driving down the road. You may want to look beyond moving parts to possible cracked or corroded structural supports. During the restoration of my car we discovered that the upper shock mounts were broken, and many of the space frame members holding up the rear of the car were corroded or cracked requiring repair. Some of the obvious space frame failures were located where the space frame is exposed to the elements in the rear tire wells. I also had the rear end completely rebuilt (with a newer set a gears), the bushings supporting the rear end replaced, and all the suspension bushings, hubs and axels replaced...  The car is not back on the road yet, so I don't know if I've licked the problem, but I think I've exhausted the possible causes.
   
   I hope this helps with your troubleshooting.
   
   John

[lew]

Guys,
   Became a little frustrated with Postman Pat being able to pass me in my Aceca while he was riding his bicycle,so I decided to investigate.
   Now I was reliably told by the vendor that this B2 engine had been uprated to D2 specs so i expect to have about 125 hp at the flywheel.
   The first thing I set on the rolling road was the ignition timing and it chimed in at 43 deg max advance. As expected.
   It ran out of power at much over 5400 and max power was an anemic 70bhp. After some research it would appear that the mantra for converting power at the rear wheel to the flywheel for RWD cars is: add 10 bhp to the wheels and divide by 0.88.
   Yes I know rolling roads are unreliable but I have used this one many times and it gives a good ball park figure
   So what flywheel power does my B2/D2 have>?  90!!!!Almost B2
   It feels like it
   Start the search. The first thing is the chokes are not 28mm but 26.5, rather a difference in area but not going to lose 25% of the power.
   Next to check was the cam timing.My research has shown a B2 at 26/72/72/36 and a D2 at 40/80/80/40.I am not convinced this is correct but it does appear in a number of publications(it could be a base mistake repeated many times thru plagiarism)
   The next problem was, is this the cam timing or the valve timing. If its valve timing is it setting timing (0.002") or running timing (0.009")?
   Next i fixed the degree wheel to the crank damper and a dial gauge to the inlet valve(assuming a symmetrical cam)
   The figures I came up with (and I checked each 3 TIMES)were for 0.009" 23/76/76/23 and for 0.002"  29/84/84/29.
   Clearly this is NOT a Bristol cam, no matter how you juggle the clearances or the lobe centre this cant fit.It  could possibly be B2 but about 7% retarded but thats a lot, or is it? I would need to know the teeth on the cam sprocket
   Questions
   1)Does any one have figures for REAR wheel horsepower (must try to compare an apple with an apple)
   2) Are my cam specs correct?
   3) Are those specs at setting or running?
   4) anyone ever heard of a cam with these specs?
   5) anyone know how many teeth on the cam or crank sprocket?
   
   Perhaps someone could shed some light on my dilema
   
   cheers from sweltering hot (32deg c today) South Africa
   
   Lew

[lew]

Peter,
   Do you have any idea of the specs for your Isky cam i.e opening,closing lift and if its cam specs or valve specs
   Tks Lew