Clutch question

[pjbowman]

Just recently, my clutch seems to be not quite engaging completely, or once in a while- at all! It is inconsistent - seems like maybe the clutch slave isn't retracting completely. I have no issue when I depress the clutch and engage a gear, but often once engaged, I seem to feel almost a secondary small engagement, and as I I said, a few times when I release the clutch nothing happens. What say the Forum, bad slave cylinder?

[AC Ace Bristol]

>
   Peter.
   
   Thought someone would have tried to help.. Oh well here goes.....
   
   Last year, I replaced the clutch cylinder on BEX333, and experienced similar malfunction, could engage all gears but not always get positive drive.
   
   re-adjusted &  inspected numerous times, BEX333 could now get on and off axle stands on command.
   
   Removed the ali floor/ pedal panel to find the leather seal I had made was not seating properly and therefore stopping full travel of the clutch pedal and therefore engagement of the clutch.
   Sometimes it is not the obvious and one has to have another coffee (or something stronger) and think lateraly.[;)]
   
   Obvious areas to inspect, sticking piston, non alignment of push rod, something comming in contact with arm in/near bell housing. or simply the clutch release or clutch itself are in need of replacement..[?]
   
   Hopefully it's something simple and incures no expence, just adjustment and your back clocking up the miles...[:)]
   
   Cheers
   
   Keith..[:)]

[B.P.Bird]

Peter, the slave cylinders often 'hang up' and make the clutch re-engagement slow like this prior to losing all the fluid. The effect is variable and intermittent. The slave cylinder seal is likely getting swollen and misshaped. See if you have low fluid level in the reservoir. The seal kit is cheap and easy so you may as well do it first, before getting in to any serious stuff

[pjbowman]

Thanks guys. Don't seem to be loosing any fluid yet, but I think a spare salve cylinder is in order just in case! Thanks for the recommendations.

[minimans]

I just had to fit a slave cylinder for the same reason. it's the same cylinder used on 289 fords or I got mine from a Sunbeam Tiger specialist

[aCMXCVIIIer]

I think a little clarification is needed regarding the previous post- Sunbeam Tigers and small-block Shelby Cobras (260, 289) used the same clutch slave.  The source is Sunbeam Specialties.
   
   Sunbeam Specialties Auto Parts
   P.O. Box 771 Los Gatos, CA
   (408) 371-1642
   (408) 371-8070 (FAX)
   or
   765 McGlincey Lane
   BLDG A
   Campbell, CA 95008
   www.rootes.com
   e-mail: sunsp22@gmail.com

[pjbowman]

Thanks all. I bought a new slave cylinder haven't had a chance to fit it yet. Appreciate the replies from those who experienced the same issue!

[TTM]

pjbowman,
   
   Did you ever solve the issue?
   
   I replaced the master, slave and hose on mine and it still takes some pumping to get the clutch pedal to build any consistency.
   When it does the clutch disengages perfectly, but if I do not pump a few times to "build pressure" into the circuit then the clutch will hardly disengage. I cannot spot a leak anywhere and the fluid level in the master tank remains constant.

[B.P.Bird]

This malady does seem to be affecting a number of Ace and Cobra clutch systems.
   I have not had this problem once a new system has been bled and moreover the bleeding is almost perfunctory - just fill the reservoir and open the bleed screw on the slave til fluid runs without bubbles. However thinking about the installation all of my cars have the competition arrangement with a separate large tin Girling reservoir, like the brake reservoir. On most cars from Thames Ditton the clutch master cylinder incorporated an integral cast in reservoir: This has a number of disadvantages 1) The quantity of fluid is rather small 2) The reservoir filler cap, with breather hole, is low down on the pedal box right behind the front wheel where is gets a hard blasting of rain water and road debris 3) The position of the integral reservoir means that there is no head and self bleeding will not occur. You could add a fourth in that, as I remember my Aceca, topping up the integral reservoir was annoyingly difficult.
   Were I dealing with the integral reservoir I would bleed with a vacuum pump. However I would soon change the master cylinder to a plain one, with no reservoir and install a proper reservoir beside and identical to, the existing Girling remote brake reservoir. Bear in mind that Cobras with dual brake master cylinders have a reservoir with two outlets. For the clutch you need one with only a single outlet.

[TTM]

As always, excellent information from Barrie Bird. Thank you.
   
   I fixed the issue with the clutch tonight, which was simply caused by a misadjusment of the ball end clearance with the fork. The pedal and clutch all work as it should now.
   
   My Ace being LHD, both master cylinders are sandwiched between the battery and the footbox. While it takes some contorsions to reach the integral clutch reservoir and a certain delicacy to avoid spilling fluid everywhere when filling it, perhaps I can rejoice that the battery protects them both from too much hard blasting of rain water and road debris. The old clutch master cylinder didn't look excessively bad when I took it out, although it must have been on the car for a good 20+ years. Just trying to see the glass half full instead of half empty!