BE 646

[paho]

....... it would be nice if you posted the pictures for posterity.
/Paho

[dkp_cobra]

Christoph asked me to post his pictures of his Furflex. Here they are:




The colour showed by the first picture is not correct due to the flash light. The second picture shows the same piece of Furflex during day-light and is much more accurate.

[AE 501]

Thank you Peter!

[paho]

 :)

[dkp_cobra]

The original leather cover above the windscreen:

It's dead but original



The new one has an aluminium kernel

Finished and installed




Installing the door catch strap. Looks easy but took a lot of time to find the right position for the screws. You only have one shot ...












The old acryl glass cover of the rear number plate must be replaced

[dkp_cobra]

Currently, AC Ace AE220 is offered for sale (https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C1687811). It has a nice solution for the handbrake lever cover. It is made in alumnium:

I would like to have something similar in my Aceca.





The slot should be closed by a brush.



Now, all sides covering with carpet.




Installed, it looks a little bit like a turret on a war ship.

[dkp_cobra]

Nearly all wood parts around the windows are broken and must be replaced.

The wood on the dashboard near by the windscreen had a rotten place. I tries to repair this part but I wasn't able to find the right wood stain to fit the old colour.









I had the idea to enforce the wood at the place where the rear side window hinge is screwed by an inlined piece of aluminium.










The new wood parts look good but have a different colour compared to the old pieces.

I will repaint them. Some parts are installed.



In the meantime my saddler covered the transmission tunnel.


I glued some insulation mat at the inside ...


... and installed it.





Together with the seats.

The glove compartments in the doors got their leather barrier.




If you ever wanted to know how to make leather piping. First you have to cut out some long strip of leather

then you have to find a simple man to sharpen out the leather by hand

(well, you can also use a machine to do this but that's only half of the fun)
At least you have to glue all together

At the end I used my first piping to surround the glove box cover plate

[dkp_cobra]

Now, the other wood parts are finished. The construction is identical for all parts. An aluminium plate covered with walnut veneer. Grinding the wood with 280 and then covering it with seven layers of one component wood clear coat. Grinding that with 400, 600 and 1000 wet sand paper. Finally it was covered with two layers of a two component car clear coat.

[dkp_cobra]

It's a quite long time ago that I gave an update of my work. Yes, I am still working on this beautiful car. There was no work really worth to mention nevertheless I want to give some impressions.

Everything started with activating the brakes. When I installed the first time the rear brake cylinders I made the mistake to tighten the nuts of the brake cylinders. But these cylinders need a floating mounting in order not to twist and block the brake after using the hand brake. Problem is that the thread length is too short to use some self-locking nuts. The dome which holds the hand brake cable at the rear brake cylinder had two locking plates to fix a normal 1/4 UNF nut. Unfortunately, two of four of these plates were broken. So I had to make new domes. As usual it took three attempts to get a reasonable result.





The new domes are make out of stainless steel (the original in the middle).


After painting



right: the new domes; left: the original ones



The new domes have no locking plates integrated. I use a single locking plate instead.





Now, they are installed and the complete construction is floating.





Since I already worked in this section I secured the bolts from the fuel pump with wire.



Since I had to order some special nuts in UK I decided to use full metal locking nuts instead of nyloc nuts for the brakes.







Installation of the hand brake cables.







Looking at the wood border of the rear side windows I had to notice that it was too short on one side.



First, I shortened it then I extended it.



















Due to the different wood it is not nice just to stain it. Anyway the wood is different from the mahogany used at all the other places. I bought mahogany veneer and covered the complete part.





I was surprised that it was possible to bend the veneer around the edges.

After staining and clear coating:







I think it fits quite good the old wood





After installing it















Today, my wife and I tried to install the old windscreen just to learn how this job can be done. After five attempts we managed it.



What are the next steps?

Well, the next big job is the complete electric. After that I plan to demonstrate the car at the TÜV (like MoT in UK). If there are no big problems I will strip the car again just enough for the painter and the car will be painted. After that the parts will be installed again and the rest of the interior will be done. You see, I have a plan.

[dkp_cobra]

I found other jobs before starting with the electric. First the battery must be fixed




Then the panels surrounding the roof lining. Here are the original parts:



And here are the new parts. This time they are made from aluminium:






Here are some pictures showing the process of making:

























I was thinking about the installation of the tripmaster I'm using in the MK IV.

The solved the problem by screwing the complete mounting bracket under the dashboard:



Removing it you can see any screws or holes:

[dkp_cobra]

Maybe, one or two recognized that after the forum migration all pictures which were stored in the database of the forum were lost. This thread missed all pictures of the first seven pages.

I took the time to restore them. Enjoy it.

[dkp_cobra]

Finally, I made a decision which headlining I would like to use. It's a quite light beige coloured microsuede. Not original but wonderful to work with and quite easy to clean.

[dkp_cobra]

I have no excuse any more not to work on the electric. So starting with the most important issue: the illumination of the rear number plate.

[dkp_cobra]

During working on the electric I found some places not fixed with secure wire





First step was the dismantling of the old wiring loom






I think I can reuse a lot these wires



Making a mounting bracket for the battery switch. As usual it took three attempts.







Installing the battery switch and the starter wire together with the negative earth wire. Now, a simple relay prevents me from turning the engine for the first time.

[dkp_cobra]

Wow, five month ago that I posted the last time. Making the new wiring loom started with a mechanical problem. I never thought about the choke and how it works. My hope was that I connect it with switched power and some magic demon enrich the fuel/air mixture.

Well, that's not quite the way how it works. The SU carburetor has a start-carburetor. Powering on this unit a valve opens and the start-carburetor works. So, this unit must be connected with the intake. The big problem was to identify the thread:





Although the unit has a SU number Burlen wasn't able to identify the thread. Well, the answer is UNS 3/4 - 24 (no typo, it's really UNS). SNG Barratt helped me with the identification and they managed to organize such a nut.

I ordered two and modified one of them



in order to use an adapter



Now it can be mounted into the start carburetor



Modifying the intake was easy



I hope it works





Beside the mechanical part I needed an additional switch in my dashboard. Since I have already so many switches I decided to get rid off one of them and replace it with a Lucas pull-switch. I ordered a new ignition switch with three position so the starting push button became useless. The new ignition switch got the old lock so I can use it with the original key. Unfortunately, the hole for the old starting button was much bigger then I needed it for the pull switch. I decided to make a new little dash board.





After that I started with the simplest wiring loom: the internal light.







The electronic device stabilize the voltage to the LED stripes. It is mounted above in the right rear internal mud guard.

The LED stripes 





In order to be able to reuse the old cables I first had to measure them.



Making the rear wiring loom going to the DB10 relay.









Nearly invisible installation















The new Lucas L549 rear lights are of such a poor quality that I decided to overhaul the original ones.



















Further wiring looms









The fuse and relay box





At the end will will be covered by an aluminum box