Topics

Happy Holidays all,

I'm hoping someone knows of a source (or has an extra they would be willing to part with) for a cast pulley/fan for a Lucas C39 PV2 dynamo.  Mine suffered the ultimate indignity on the return trip from getting its bushing and bearing replaced, compliments of UPS here in the USA.  Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Greg

Does anyone know if the brass filter portion of the glass Zenith fuel filters installed on Aces, Acecas and ? are available anywhere?
   
   
   
   
   
   Thank you,
   
   Greg

I need to replace the release bearing in my CLB engined Aceca and am hoping someone can provide a reference for the part.  It's hard to make out the numbers stamped into the one removed from the car but they appear to be something close to 19604 1939 but it's hard to know for sure.  Thanks in advance for any reference provided.
   
   Greg
   
   

I am curious to know if anyone has swapped out their original cam for this one and, if so, what their impressions are, i.e. mild improvement, major improvement, drawbacks, etc.
   
   Thanks in advance for any replies.
   
   Greg

I am researching what the original radiator drain valve/petcock is supposed to look like.  This one is available from Moss Motors.  Does it look correct?  If not, any information or photographs would be much appreciated.
   
   Thanks in advance,
   
   Greg
   
   

Hello all,
   
   Can someone please advise the correct thermostat for a CLB engine?  Manufacturer and part number and/or specification would be great.
   
   As always, thanks in advance for the help.
   
   Greg

I recently replaced the right rear inner and outer wheel bearings on my Aceca.  Within about a month after doing so, it appears the outer bearing has failed miserably as the wheel has a large amount of play in it.  So much so that the brake drum rubs on the backing plate unless the car is going perfectly straight.  Any small amount of lateral movement of that wheel makes a nasty scraping sound.  I suspect the bearing is defective but wanted to get some opinions on whether it was the correct bearing in the first place.  The bearing that was removed from the car was an R&M bearing that, I am told, is a "max" style bearing as it has a total of 30 balls.  The relatively high number of balls means the collars must be slotted to allow for assembly at time of manufacture.  Photo is below.
   
   
   
   The replacement bearing is manufactured by SKF and, I am told, it is a "Conrad" style bearing.  It has a total of 22 balls and because it has fewer, no loading slots are required.  I would also assume that with 8 fewer balls, it is not as robust as what was in there previously.  A photo is below.
   
   
   
   Can anyone tell me if the "Conrad" style, SKF bearing is what is being used these days?  I cannot find a "max" style bearing and am told it is likely no longer being manufactured.  If the SKF bearing is the current replacement for our cars then I will assume mine was defective.  If not, what is the best replacement?
   
   Thank you in advance for any advice.
   
   Greg

Hello AC folk,
   
   I would appreciate any input on the following.  I noticed the other day that my starter seemed to have backed out slightly from its mounting and was a little wobbly.  I loosened the lock nut and bolt, and wiggled the starter back into place, then tightened the bolt and lock nut again.  Upon briefly test firing the starter I heard some metal on metal so backed out the bolt.  Tried starting again and everything sounded fine.  Drove for a bit then shut the engine off for a couple of minutes.  Upon starting the car back up, I heard a brief metalic sound then the engine ran fine.  I've backed the bolt off twice now with the same result - no metallic sound when the engine is cold, brief metallic sound when the engine is warm.  Should I back out the bolt more?  Back the starter out a bit?  Am I hurting anything?
   
   Thanks in advance for any advice.
   
   Greg

I found this by accident on the web and thought I would share.  The name of this VERY short, nicely produced feature is Mugello Stradale 2010 AC ACECA.  Click the link below.  I don't think this has already been posted to the forum but if so it's worth another look![:)]
   
   http://prophecyblur.com/blog/2011/04/10/mugello-stradale-2010-ac-aceca/
   
   Enjoy,
   
   Greg

The steering in my Aceca has always felt rather stiff.  When the car is moving, regardless of speed, it seems to require a fair amount of effort to turn the steering wheel once you've passed the small center dead spot.  It is in no way "finger light", nor does it "straighten itself out after cornering", as described in the owner's manual.  With the front end of the car off the ground the steering wheel turns very easily with no obvious binding up anywhere.  If anyone has any suggestions on what to check I would really appreciate it.
   
   Thanks,
   
   Greg

Hello all,
   
   I'm in the process of replacing some worn U-joints in my Aceca.  The job would be a lot easier if I could remove the bolt at the outer end of the wishbone that the bottom end of the shock absorber is mounted to (so the shock can come out).  I've removed the three small set screws but the bolt still refuses to budge, even with a few good whacks with a mallet.  Is there anything else that needs to be taken into consideration to get the bolt out?
   
   Thanks in advance for any help on this.
   
   Greg

My AC powered Aceca has the stock Moss transmission with optional factory overdrive.  I've had the car a couple of years now and have often wondered if the "bump" I sometimes feel when the overdrive is engaged and/or disengaged is normal.  Any comments would be appreciated.
   
   Greg

I need to bleed the clutch on my AC engined Aceca equipped with a Moss transmission.  Access to the clutch slave and its bleeder valve are pretty limited.  If anyone has any recommendations on how best to reach this thing I would greatly appreciate it.
   
   Thank you,
   
   Greg

Thought the members might appreciate a photo of my birthday/New Year cake.  Can't think of a better way to ring in the New Year and celebrate the start of a new decade for the two of us (me and my Aceca, that is!).
   
   
   
   Thanks for a great job, Leslee!!
   
   Greg

As I get to know my Aceca better, I'm noticing odds and ends that need fixing.  I was checking into why I was always getting hot air in the cabin and discovered that the cable to the heater valve at the front of the engine is detatched from the valve itself.  It appears that the cable mount is simply spot welded to the valve (as my photo shows).  Can someone with a car that has the same valve assembly please look under their hood and confirm this for me?  If I'm missing a piece in between, a photo would be much appreciated.  I assume the assembly would be the same on an Ace as well?
   
   
   
   Thank you,
   
   Greg

Does anyone know of a source or reference for the door mounted portion of the Aceca's door striker/latch?  I've spoken with Ron Leonard here in the states about them and, while he can supply the receiver plate which mounts to the body, he was not aware of a source for this star shaped wheel which mates with it.  Mine have a lot of play and keep the doors from closing snugly.  I cannot imagine AC built these themselves, instead opting for something that already existed from another manufacturer.  Any suggestions on this would be much appreciated.  If anyone has rebuilt them successfully that would also be good information.
   
   Thanks,
   
   Greg
   
   

Hello there:
   
   I am a new member and owner of a '59 Aceca with AC engine.  I am replacing some corroded flex pipe which runs from the headers to the muffler and would appreciate any insight on the following related question:
   
   In undertaking the project, I've noted some creative methods of attaching the front of the muffler and the mid point of the rear tailpipes.  I believe all exhaust components are original.  There are two (currently unused) threaded studs coming off the front of the muffler and two adjacent (currently unused) small U-shaped hangers on the frame.  The rear tailpipes have, approximately at their midpoint, threaded studs extending up from them as well.
   
   I'm a bit of a purist and would prefer to attach the exhaust in its original fashion.  If anyone is able to describe what I'm missing or, better yet, email me a photograph of a correct installation, I would really appreciate it.
   
   Thanks,
   
   Greg Badano
   USA
   email: gsb1159@pacbell.net