Messages

What the majority of the tree-hugging populace seem to forget, is that without hydrocarbons (HC), their beloved e-cars would not exist, let alone operate e.g.

• the bitumen/asphalt roads they drive on (except our US friends driving on concrete) are made from HC
• the vast majority of the plastic components inside most cars are made from HC
• have never seen an excavator (other than the grandsons toys) that is not powered by HC
• have never seen an a hi-volume/hi-pressure, electric water pump, in remote location
• have never seen earth moving trucks, powered by batteries
• electric ships...hmmm that's a work on

the list just goes on and on

As for Li-ion battery disposal, last time I looked there were only two places in the world - France and China, of which China had closed it's doors because of pressure to reduce the polution and demand was far outstripping what they were able to safely process.
Many countries (including NZ) are just stock-piling the spent batteries, creating another potential environmental issue

So an electric Cobra - blasphemy I say !!

Barrie
Godforbid the notion ever takes root; for a silent run out in the countryside, suggest dusting off the trainers and doing the post breakfast trip from Fennel to Manse on foot, will do wonders for the environment and the waistline;)

Two new AC's annouced

Bit of ACDC ;)
https://www.accars.eu/models/ac-cobra-series-1-electric/

and don't have a name for this
https://www.accars.eu/models/ac-cobra-140-charter-edition/

Robin

I do not see the point of your post

Whilst AC's progress in the 21st century may not have lived up to its media hype, they have continued to manufacture cars - post 2000 Superblowers and then the CRS/AC MKII Classic/Zagato/MKVI/AC378, to name a few and others that we are probably not aware of.

The continual lambasting of the company and marque post Frimley is concerning and considering it is voiced on a public forum, is detrimental to the hope of any improved relationship with the AC management and to us as proud owners of vehicles produced in this era.

We - the owners post 2000, to my knowledge have never criticisied the Hurlock or Angliss management, nor sort to bring it into disrepute, even though our opinions may be otherwise. We would therefore expect that as a custodian of an important section the marque, that one observes some respect for us and our cars, and the consequences of your statements that are visible to the public

Regards
Rob
PS. Admimistrator: Would request that this post be removed, as it serves no purpose other than to degradate both the current management and owners of post-2000 vehicles

Martyn
Working on the KISS principle, you need air (in/out), fuel, compression and spark to make an engine work. So based on this thread thus far:

AIR (inlet) - has the filter been cleaned/replaced. A severely blocked air cleaner can case this type of problem

AIR (exhaust) - many people forget that just as an engine breathes in, it must also breathe out. Is there an exhaust blockage e.g. the catalytic converter. You mention that the CO2 emissions are out, suggesting that the catalytic converter is not functioning properly and you also mention low exhaust temperatures, these combined raise concerns. A "normal" engine exhaust temperature is 400-900C and catalytic converters do not really work well below 250-300C, hence the suggestion to warm it up, an optimum temperature being around 400C

FUEL – supposedly the carb has been setup correctly, but has the fuel inlet pressure been checked (had a similar problem with a friends double pumper). Air/fuel ratio will have a direct effect on exhaust temperatures. Also a 650CFM double pumper is a lot of carb for what is basically a stock 302.

COMPRESSION - you have confirmed is fine

SPARK – would suggest checking the distributor, worn bushes or bearings could cause this issue at higher RPM

Regards
Rob
/////////

Hi
Can anyone advise the location of the VIN# on the 2002, COB/COX5001-5012 cars??
Regards
Rob

http://www.brise.co.uk/Battery-Isolator-EV200-H.html
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7701/ML_Solenoid_-_12V_DC

If you do not want to go the route of a cable activated cut-off, with a big ugly cut-off switch, then would recommended either of the above. They are both bi-polar relays/solenoids, whereby power is only used for the mircosecond required to carry out the switching, the relay being held in either the off or on position magnetically.
The EV200 is approved for motorsports
The BlueSea solenoid is double the size but comes with the added function of having an additional level of security, in that the solenoid can be manually locked with the yellow switch at the end

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2145/SPDT_Remote_Control_Contura_Switch_-_%5BON%5D-OFF-%5BON%5D
Both solenoids can be easily switched, however the above switch gives the user another level of security in that the "gate" has to be moved to the other side before the switch can be operated.

I have the BlueSea solenoid and switch fitted and it has operated flawlessly. The switch is mounted on a small alloy bracket, held to the back of the alloy dash with 3M tape
https://www.command.com/3M/en_US/command/products/~/Command-Small-Picture-Hanging-Strips/?N=5924736+3294529207+3294737341&preselect=8706801+3293786499&rt=rud

The part number for a 1987-93 Mustang 5.0 timing cover is: RF-E8AE-6059-AA
Available from Summit Racing, JEGS, Ebay, Rock Auto, or any place that supplies Ford or after market parts

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/timing-covers/engine-size/5-0l-302/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/in-stock/yes/make/ford?N=4294943561%2B4294951343%2B4294951339%2B4294951337%2B215

the right answer when asked how long a piece of string is - twice as long as its middle to its end (as quoted by my friends 11yo)

Vince
You may have just given us the cause for the starting problems. Over-running or dieseling is not good for your engine and needs to be addressed asap. It occurs when there is no ignition source i.e. the key is turned off and the remaining fuel/air mix is ignited by a hot spot within the cylinder. This hot spot can be carbon build up (which would be unlikely in a newly built engine), the timing being too far advanced or the mixture being too lean making the engine run hot and thus causing the plugs to overheat. Sluggish starting when hot is also a symptom of the timing being too far advanced. Would carry out a few checks:

Spark plugs
First take out all the spark plugs and examine them carefully. Look at the electrodes and the nose of the insulator for any signs of overheating. The plugs should have a light brown coating all over - if they appear white or glazed they have been overheating

Check engine timing
If the spark plugs aren't at fault, you should next check the timing. Usually, you will have had other warning of over advanced timing, such as pinking under hard acceleration or hard/sluggish turn over when starting hot

Air leaks
If dieseling persists, your next avenue of investigation is the fuel system. The problem may be caused by a weak fuel/air mixture because of a badly adjusted carburettor or air leaking into the inlet manifold. A weak fuel/air mixture can make the engine run much hotter than it should.

Vince

I'm no sparkie, but here are a couple of basic tests to carry to determine if your battery is charging and/or holding a charge

Using a digital multimeter, set the dial to DC voltage to low range e.g. <24VDC
Next, take your multimeter's black lead to the negative battery terminal and the red lead to the positive terminal. Hold each one firmly until the multimeter provides a voltage readout.

12.66+ battery is 100% charged and in good shape
12.45 - 75% charged
12.24 - 50% charged
12.06 - 25% charged
11.89 - 0% charged

If you're seeing 12.45 volts or higher, your battery is in good shape and it's time to check other common culprits. If you're below a 75% charge, your battery might still bring the car to life, but not reliably. Below this threshold, your battery may need recharging or even replacing depending on its age.

Now start the engine and carry out the same test, the reading should be between 13.7 – 14.7, showing your battery is receiving charge from the alternator

Firstly, you need to determine the battery size or group i.e. the battery size that will best fit the physical dimensions and terminal locations for your application

If you live in colder climes, then consideration needs to be given to the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), which define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at -17C (0F) for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2V

Consideration then needs to be given to:
•   Maintainability/serviceability – most of our batteries are tucked away in a quite difficult to access location and most us do not look at the battery until it goes flat, therefore consider a battery that requires minimum maintainance i.e. a sealed gel or AGM type battery
•   Use of the vehicle – is it used daily, only in fair weather or once a year, this will reflect on battery selection
•   Mechanical aptitude of the owner – an owner that is less mechanically adept, is more likely to never look at the battery until it is dead
•   Battery age – take care when purchasing a battery that the manufacturing date is within the past 6mths. This is usually on the case or label and is indicated by letters and digits; A = January, 0=2000, 1=2001, etc.
•   Electrical devices – is there an electric clock, that runs even with the ignition off
•   Isolation – is the battery able to be totally isolated
•   Wiring – age and condition of the wiring and connections; are they in good condition, no corrosion, all connections are tight, etc.

Once you have determined the above and the selection has been made I would recommend fitment of a charger/maintainer like the C-TEK MXS 3.8 (https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-3-8).
These can be directly wired to your battery, with a small 10x12x30mm sealed waterproof and dust-proof connection discreetly located for easy access. I my case access is through the engine side vent; when the car is not in use the C-TEK is permanently connected (sometimes for several months) and when disconnected the connector is pushed back through the vent out of sight

First one available in UK, who's going to be the first to take it for a jolly?

https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/ac/cobra-continuation/ac-cobra-378--our-demonstrator/8853254

Constant, have no idea why the photos will not open, have tried on my work computer and even our corporate firewall will allow them to open in Explorer & Chrome, without any issues

not even going to ask why.....