Messages

I can guarantee that Leo's own 2 Litre will be there, at least I hope so, as I am buying it from him and plan to collect it at the event!

Were any of these cars fitted with a heater from new? And if so, does any member own a car with an original installation?
I am buying a 2 Litre Saloon which has never had a heater, but as I live in Scotland I think I would be glad of one! I wouldn't want to fit anything which spoiled originality. so if I could get photos and specs. or maybe even take a look at the installation, that would be very helpful.

Do you still need a transport company? My Ace was recently transported to London and back from the Scottish Borders for a photo shoot, by a guy called Belan (tel 07593 805742). He has an open Nissan transporter, was thoroughly professional and conscientious, and good company to boot (he is of Kurdish Turk extraction and has had a very interesting life). I didn't have to pay the bill but I believe it was reasonable. Whether he could cope with a car that was reluctant to roll I don't know.

I had a flat-screen hardtop yonks ago (so no pics I'm afraid) and I believe it was a factory effort because it looked very professional – nicely lined etc. At the rear there was a steel bracket with a hole in it corresponding to the hood stick mounting, you put a bolt right the mounting and the bracket, very simple. At the front there were several captive screws which were able to slide in the slot at the top of the windscreen but not turn. Whenthey were slid along to the right positions, their threads would protrude through steel brackets on the front of the hardtop and small nuts could then fitted on top to secure them. As far as I remember, the hardtop did not make use of the over-centre catches on the windscreen.

Hope that helps.

Many years ago I weighed my 2.6 Ace on an industrial weighbridge which I believe was pretty accurate. It came out at exactly 18cwt (0.9t). The spec at the time was iron head, walking-stick manifold, 3 HS6 SUs, standard width 16 inch wheels, factory detachable roll bar, standard steel fuel tank.

I haven't weighed it recently but it's probably a bit heavier now as the body and chassis have been strengthened at the rear. Also the wheels are heavier, 5.5 inch wide, 15 inch diameter but with more spokes than original. And I have added an overdrive. On the other hand, head and tank are now alloy and the roll bar is not fitted.

Hope that provides some food for thought.

Very happy to co-operate in any way I can.

Great car, I'm sure you will not regret the effort of restoring it. Happy to provide moral support, I have a LHD Ace in the UK, but mine is a 2.6 so there are obviously a lot of differences compared to a Bristol. Good luck.

I have a zirconium finish on the exhaust of my 2.6, both on the cast iron manifolds and the stainless-steel Y-piece that joins their outputs together, and can't honestly say I've noticed any difference in heat soak. I was offered a choice of colour and chose silver, but the finish pealed off the stainless in no time, leaving the white base, which looks OK in its own right and, 15,000 miles on, still seems intact. So if you go this route and have the option of omitting the finish coat, that might be worth considering.

Pity you don't have another one. The hose on my 2.6 has to turn through a very tight angle to clear the chassis and the joint is inclined to leak as a result. Does anyone know if this was a regular fitment?

My 2.6 Ace had a bolt-on factory roll bar from new, and it just fitted under the hood. Whether it would actually have done anything useful in an accident I am not sure, but fortunately I have never put it to the test! Long may that continue.

I agree with Robin Woolmer, even though I have a 2.6 Ace, which is the version with a Ford engine! If you make the swap you will end up with something of a hybrid. Originality will always pay off in the long run, and although AC engines are expensive to restore, the fact that you have the original block is very important. Also, bear in mind that it isn't just a matter of swapping engines: Ford-engined cars had a differently styled front, and an extra leaf in the front spring as the block is heavier. The exhaust runs on the opposite side and there may also be gearbox implications as well, though I'm not well versed on that.

Swallow hard and get the engine rebuilt. In the UK there are a couple of specialists around who can be trusted to do a good job.

RSX 5006, my 2.6 Ace, has always had leather. At least since 1971, when I bought it.

Going right back to the point about the steering idler which started this thread in 2011, my 2.6 Ace has a slightly cranked steering arm in order to increase the clearance. I've owned the car since it was 10 years old and it has always been this way. No idea whether this is standard on all 2.6s or not. A rather crude solution, but it's worked for nearly 50 years, so hard to argue!

My LHD 1961 Ace 2.6 has a mix of bayonet and screw fittings for its instrument bulbs, so I suspect that both types were used right through production. The screw versions tend to be those that fit inside instruments, so they were probably supplied by Smiths with the instruments as a package, or bought from Lucas complete with holders designed to fit Smiths instruments. The bayonet bulbs located on external brackets were probably arranged by AC themselves. Why the difference? Probably something prosaic: maybe the Hurlocks got hold of a job lot of bayonet sockets at a good price, or maybe they couldn't get hold of screw fitting that could easily be attached to a bracket. Regarding dipswitches, floor mounting is standard on the Ace and I have never heard of the arrangement on your car, it's probably an aftermarket addition. But my car does have a headlamp flasher stalk on the dash. It was there in 1971 when I acquired the car so it may well have been a factory fitment added at the buyer's request.

Just thought of another point: the EBC Greenstuff pads do seem more prone to sticking to the disc if the car is not used for a while, don't know if this is peculiar to this compound or whether all non-asbestos pads have this tendency. To avoid rust marks on discs, it's a good idea to roll the car back and forth every week or two while it's laid up. And buy a dehumidifier.