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I haven't used this company but have heard good reports about them, may be worth a phone call, if they can't help they may be able to advise.
https://www.pirtek.co.uk/

Adrian, when i get a moment i will try and find the info for the Teves system. One thing i do remember was the fact that the information from Autodata was incorrect and missing a relay.
I will post info when i find it.

As far as i know, all the sensors are just plain on/off switches.
Just think about how the system needs to work.
The hood should not operate unless the handbrake is on, hence a switch.
The hood cover should not lift until the catch is released so that will have a switch.
The hood cover will need to be fully open before the hood lifts out, so there will be a switch on the cover ram.
Once the hood is out a ram switch will be operated to allow the cover to close.
Once the cover catch switch is closed it will stop the cover rams being operated and then expand the hood fully until the switch on the o/s operates (hidden in the hood material on the mechanism).
At this point the process is finished as you pull the roof front down to lock.
Opening is just a reversal of the operations.
I would say it is rare for the control unit to fail, nearly always lives, earths or switches.

Good luck

Almost sure there are switches on the end of some of the hydraulic rams also the body panel that opens to raise the hood has one on the catch.

I am sorry i can not remember where we got these figures from, but after setting ours within these tolerances we had no undue tyre wear front or rear.

Toe-in, front (°) - Total   0°00' ± 15'
Camber, front (°)          -0°15' ± 45'
Castor, front (°)           4°15' ± 1°
King pin inclination (KPI), front (°)   12°26' ± 1°

Toe-in, rear (°) - Total   0°22' ± 15'
Camber, rear (°)          -0°30' ± 45'

Hope this helps
Wally

What would you like to know that isn't already on the register?
   
   Graham

It is the one i helped to build. The owner unfortunatley passed away last year and his family have decided to sell. Any questions and i will try to help as much as possible.
   Graham

Just thought this light hearted video may help
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUl6PooveJE
   
   Wally

We used mild steel but only because as we had a piece that was almost correct size, we just trimmed it slightly and cut it in two.
   
   Wally

quote:Originally posted by Nev
   
Very interesting info, I appreciate the effort to put it up on here. Has anyone managed to fit end-stops to reduce the lock on the steering?
   

   
   Quote from the Rack Thread below
   From what I remember we fitted a rack from a VOLVO 740 ID No. 34003798, the only thing we had to alter was putting spacers on either rack end (behind the rubber gaiters)to stop it turning as far when on full lock.
   
   All we did was put a collar with the same outer diameter as the outer diameter of the knuckle joint, and with an inner diameter being a tight fit onto the rack, and then re-fit the knuckle joint. Obviuosly we did this on both sides. The thickness of the spacer then limits the lock as the spacer instead of the knucke joint comes up against the outer rack housing when on full lock. I can't remember just how thick these were but at a guess they would be around 25 to 30mm.
   
   Wally

Do you know what brake system is on your car?
   
   Our car has Teves system (and I think it is Mk4 but would have to check to confirm). This has a warning light for low brake fluid level and handbrake on, and also has a light for when the brake pump pressure is lower than a set limit. If it is the same system you should hear the pump run after you press the brakes a few times.
   
   Wally

I am almost sure a taper pin with a nut on top of the hub can not be used, it was along while since but I seem to remember that the abs reluctor ring and the bearing cap are in the way and the lower part of the hub casting just does not suit adaption.
   
   Wally

From what I remember we fitted a rack from a VOLVO 740 ID No. 34003798, the only thing we had to alter was putting spacers on either rack end (behind the rubber gaiters)to stop it turning as far when on full lock.
   
   If this is a good part number most motor factors will do an exchange rack at a reasonable price.
   
   Wally

Part number 502 1430, Don't know what make (Maybe Ford part number) but google shows it.
   
   Wally

The lower ball joint as far as I know is a Ford Transit 1985 to 1991.
   
   But, this has a tapered pin with a threaded section at the top for a nut.
   
   I may be wrong but I seem to remember some had this fitted and some had hubs which had been machined for a parallel pin with a grove in, that then uses a pinch bolt through the lower part of the hub which is split so the nut and bolt pinches the pin.
   
   Which has your got? I am almost sure that the ball joint is the same part number for both but one has been machined parallel and the length adjusted to fit.
   
   Wally