Messages

Not sure why you would consider the fix I made "over engineered" ANF289 when the original rubber electrical bulkhead grommet masquerading as a bearing was woefully inadequate and completely inappropriate for the application. I can't see the point in simply replacing substandard parts with the same again when an improvement is available. We all have different resources available as well as skill levels . My fix was easy for me to do so I did it and I'm really pleased with the outcome as well as having the confidence of not having to revisit it ever again I suggest. Cheers.

Thanks French Frie, we all work with what we have and I'm fortunate to have access to a lathe etc. I just thought it might help someone else with an alternative by sharing what I did, that's the beauty of this great forum, sharing solutions. Cheers Steve

No, that's a Rover type column I believe Westcott where mines a a Ford one. My one is as per the bottom of French Fries's one here : http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2808&SearchTerms=Bushing
   
   I wish I could work out how to post some photos of mine which I have repaired and refitted. Can anyone explain how to post photos please?.

The spherical bush will need to pass through the angled panel steel housing after it's bored out. I might look at making thin shaft collars for each side to hold it from moving. Depends on what bush I can find locally. Any tacks would be unseen and discrete.

Ok, after enlisting the assistance of my wife to hold a ROE on the engine side bolts and somehow managing to get my generous frame into the pedal box area of the car, I withdrew the steering column leaving the wiring loom intact. I undid the U/J by the engine side firewall , prised it open enough to slide the spline out. What I found is the firewall support 'bearing' is nothing more than a 9/16 rubber grommet that has split and results in the vertical play in the steering shaft. What I did notice is the angled face of the grommet slipped into was not perpendicular to the shaft . My thinking is now that I will bore the plate out slightly to accept a 9/16 Teflon lined spherical bushing that supports the shaft but will provide some self alignment. As for retaining it, the simplest way may be to spot a MIG or TIG weld on each side to retain it (cooling it quickly to save the Teflon) otherwise thin shaft collars. What I found is best described as 'bloody awful' engineering, it can only be improved. Cheers Steve

Hi French Frie, thanks very much for the comprehensive info. We didn't get the Granada in NZ  so I won't even bother speaking with FORD NZ spares. I'm an Engineer with a Machine Shop so manufacturing what's needed will not be a hassle however it's great to get some idea of what I'm up to.Appreciate your help, cheers Steve.

Thanks Bruce, I will take a closer look in the weekend and report back, although I'm pretty sure all fixings are in place and it is as though the inner guard has shrunk, causing it to drop slightly.

Hi Peter, I believe the yokes are original and they are definately slightly oval. I assume the "lengthwise cogging" you speak of is the gearbox end spline?. Certainly if I could replace the whole unit, I will. The Jag parts you used, were they just the crosses or were they the yokes too?. I guess I need to find a compatible gearbox output shaft U/J for a start.

More parts pictures : http://www.merkurtech.com/merkurtech/includes/imgviewer.php?merkurtech/picturepages/images/clutchadj002.jpg and : http://www.merkurtech.com/merkurtech/includes/imgviewer.php?merkurtech/picturepages/images/clutchadj001.jpg and :

I will check at work tommorow,I can't recall what I have or kept. I actually replaced the entire quadrant by water jet cutting a new one from Ali plate, then machining the bores and outer groove. It took a while but the end result is very good and worth the effort.

Hi Bruce, my MkIV met with the same issue, the quadrant is a known fault and the spring often breaks stopping the pawl from being engaged onto the quadrant teeth. I trawled the 'Net and found the following page and concept that I then went on to manufacture and fit to my car, working off the photos. It works very well and is a fit and forget modification that allows manual adjustment of the clutch cable: http://www.key-ideas.com/DG_ClutchAdjuster.htm

Thats it exactly thanks, now I understand what it is, I googled 'clutch safety switch' and read a bit more on the subject.I must admit I've never heard of them before. I'm interested in other peoples opinions, I always check the car is in neutral before starting anyway so for me its probably redundant. Do others rate it as important?.

I'm not sure of the exact size but I'm sure this type of universal C Spanner would be ideal, various sizes are available : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-DRAPER-ADJUSTABLE-C-SPANNER-2-4-3-4-hook-wrench-/390213644492?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5ada8bb0cc

Any idea on the models of the Merc & Rover please Mark IV?,thanks,Steve.

Hi Jim,
   
   Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been away for Easter. The Units we purchased through
   a car parts outlet are TRW units, #JBJ252 , suit SAAB 90, 99, 900, 1969-1993. Both sides take the same one.Thanks,Steve.