Messages

Many thanks Jonathan, exactly what I needed.  Peter

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   Removal of the fibreglass footwell/firewall is possible without removing the body.  I had no difficulty.  Panals, steering wheel. pedals and leather covered facia and alloy floors, gearbox covers have to be reoved.  It is easier if the doors are removed.  Then the many rivets, screws and some (4?) bolts around the edges have to be removed (including around the pedal box) and it can be taken out to the rear.  When I did it I already had the running gear out as well as the heater and interior and floors so access was no problem.
   
   The rear fibreglass panal comes out also.

Hi Peter Bowman, I have an AC engined Aceca and I obtained an overhaul kit and a conversion to electronic kit from Burlen Fuel Systems who look after SU, Amal, & Zenith.
   Email info@burlen.co.uk   web www.burlen.co.uk
   
   I dont know if my pump is original but ran well since 1976.  You must stipulate 'Suction' and 'Positive Earth'.
   They have new pumps as well as parts.
   
   After overhauling my reserve pump I fitted it alongside the original and it tested out ok but failed after 20 minutes running.  I re-tested and ok but failed again after 20 minutes. In each case I was able to swop over to the original which works well.  Burlen suggested that some old solenoids fail when warm, presumably an insulation breakdowm.  I dont think the fault lies with the conversion kit.
   
   Hope this helps
   
   Peter Hoskin, Canberra, Australia

Many thanks to all contributers, I am progressing a solution through a local brake specialist who has some old Girling and Lockheed units, and also an Australian make.
   
   Peter

Thanks, Robin.  Dont know of any Lotus Elans in Canberra but there will be some in the VSSC Australia Sydney chapter that we of the Canberra chapter frequently meet.
   Peter

John, just seen your query and am interested to hear how you have overcome it.  I ham having a problem with my clutch.  I replaced the standard B&B clutch plate and carbon thrust with a modern diaphragm clutch and thrust ball bearing.  Different movement so I measured clearances and installed an adaptor ring behind the thrust bearing to compensate.Put engine in etc and started up but found I could not engage gear with the engine running. ie clutch was not disengaging.  I tried all sort of tricks like reversing the lever between the rod and clutch cross shaft, extending rod length to max., adjusting the outer tie bolt that links the slave cylinder mounting plate to the bell housing.  I got to a position where the clutch would disengage but as soon as everything was warm I had the same problem.  To change gear I had to stop engine , engage new gear and start engine again!   I stripped and removed the engine again, re measured the clearances and worked out I needed a further 3.5 mm spacer.  I fitted it and replaced the engine.  This time I checked by raising one rear wheel and confirming I could turn it.  I then replaced all the bits and started the engine and found I could use the clutch as normal.  In my case the operating rod is wound back to minimum length so that I can just rotate it by hand and the lever that engages the tie rod is just aft of vertical ie it moves through the vertical position as it is operated.   Sounds good?  No, I still have a problem in engaging bottem gear when hot and at the traffic lights!  With no synchro. on first this can be a problem solved by engaging second then first but does not work in my case.  I resleeved the slave cylinder to a slightly smaller diameter to increase its throw but made no difference.  Still pondering but not wanting to remove engine again!  Any ideas?
   Peter Hoskin

Steering Conversion - I am in the process of installing the Ben Yates conversion kit as part of a total rebuild of my ACECA.
   I have the engine out also dashboard and all car internals so it is easier in my case.
   The kit and the instructions supplied have worked out well, the drawings are very adequate.  It reqires fitting of a sleeve to extend the length of the original Morris Alegro(?) UJ shaft which has to be cut to length to suit particular car and then 3 welds done.
   The position varies between AC, Bristol and Ford engines and L and R drive.  Mine is a RH drive AC engined car and it seems to work out fine. This kit denies the use of the steering wheel direction indicators as it has a solid shaft at the lower end(I suspect all alternatives will have the same problem) but the central horn button is retained by use of a slip ring. Cant report on road performance yet!  ps  existing mounting block not used but can be retained.

I am having problems with achieving consistent running when returning to idle when cool and when warm.
   I have standard carbs. 11/4inch H2
   What is the correct needle size for this engine?

[ My original crankshaft has a I1/2 inch crack in one of the webs, not obvious, may have been there since birth but costings of repair by laser welding plus age of shaft (30 thou machined)made me decide to have one made.  Is the old one any good to anyone?
   Must be at no cost to me, I live in Canberra, Australia.
   Will scrap it if no response.=Arial][/font=Arial][size=6][/size=6]

I smashed my right ankle when driving my Ace under a cattle lorry in 1963 and have restricted movement plus arthritis.  Want to add vacuum brake booster to reduce effort.  Have fitted rack and pinion steering which gives more space under exhaust pipes.  Has anyone fitted a brake booster? Can they advise on what, how and where to fit?

Mine has a chrome metal rectangular body and the end profile shows a semicircular profile to the 'glass'(plastic).  It has its own switch.  "Glass' is very yellow and cracked, switch is dodgy but recoverable.  I cannot locate a manufacturere's identity but I dont think it is a Lucas product. I removed it 7 years ago and wonder if it should have a separate metal base which I have lost as the switch is rather exposed underneath and could be a hazard with the roof lining etc.  Does anyone know its make etc? a source for a replacement 'glass'? or a suitable replacement 'look-a-like'?  What size lamp should it take?

AC ACECA - I have new rubbers for windscreen inner and outer, rear window and also the front and rear quarter lights. I now have to fit them as part of my rebuild activity. My ACECA has the square bottom corner windscreen.  I thought there might be an entry gate to allow the T section rubber to slide in, but no.
   Has anyone any guidance on how its best done? any special tools or lubricants?