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Messages - DWR46

#1
Since I started this thread, I thought I would finish the discussion. I was not able to easily locate a new master, so I sent the old one to White Post for sleeving and rebuilding. I have used them in the past, but had some problems about 10 years ago, and moved to another rebuilder. Now that firm has started doing poor quality work, so I gave White Post another chance. They turned the cylinder around in three days, did just as I requested and it appears to be good quality work. So I will continue to use them. Cost was about $225 including shipping.
#2
Lux: Thank you for the info. Your cylinder appears to look exactly like my unit. However, the websites list it as having a 7/8" bore, and mine measured 1". My cylinder is out for rebuilding now, so I will let you know how it turns out. The previously recommended source cannot supply the Girling unit as originally listed.
#4
AC: Thanks for the reply. I have a email out to them with the specifics of the cylinder. We will see what they have. I wanted to investigate a new cylinder before I start to source parts for a sleeve and rebuild.
#5
Yes, it is a Salisbury. It is the same unit used by Jaguar. Years ago, I bought a rebuilt Jag unit with 3.55 gears and it bolted right in without problems.
#6
AK1137 is a US Spec Mark IV with the folowing modifications that would effect the weight. Ford Racing Aluminum cylinder heads, Weber Carburetors, European Exhaust headers and system, Complete with spare tire, tools, jack and all fluids except NO fuel, the car weighs 2,480 lbs on our race scales.
#7
I also agree that the manuals specify Rear Toe Out. However, this just has to be a mistake. I know of no other street car that specifies rear toe out (though somebody may be able to tell us about one). We prepare and race a number of vintage sports cars and we always set them up for as much rear toe IN as the car can stand. Rear Toe IN helps stability under braking. We race both 289 and 427 Cobras and always use 3/16-1/4 inch total rear Toe IN. On the street, excessive rear toe IN will accelarate tire wear, so you need to find the right balance between stability and acceptable tire life. The less toe in at the rear, the longer the tires will last. In racing, the tires wear so fast the the toe settings are not a factor.
   As for the front toe settings. In racing the old saying is "toe out equals turn in". Toe out setings help the car turn into the corner better, but you loose straightline stability. In a race car, you really do not care so much and sacrifice stability for lap times. On the street, you want some small amount of front toe IN for better straightline stability. Too much will add understeer and make the car less responsive and will also increase tire wear. On the track we run about 1/16 to 1/8 inch front toe out, but on the street about 1/32 to 1/16 inch front toe in. The front toe in also helps compensate for wear in the steering, as the natural tendency is for the front tires to try to pull themselves apart as they go down the road, so a little intial toe in will help offset component wear and still keep the wheels straight when moving. For a street Mark IV, we use 1/16 inch total front toe IN, and 1/8 inch total rear toe IN.
#8
I maybe wrong, but a Mark IV hub is possibly the same as a 427 Cobra hub. If so, you might want to contact George Petrus at Accurate Machine Products also known as Cobra Racing, 4730 Emerald St., Torrance, CA 90503. His fax is 310-370-1035, I do not have his regular phone quickly available. He is supplying us with 427 Hubs for our 289 vintage race car project. Prices seem quite reasonable.
#9
Thanks for the information about the pre-MarkIV spares. My interest is in sources for MarkIV spare parts, though I do not need anything right now, you never know what will happen in the future. In the 1992-94 time era, I was able to buy lots of items to upgrade AK 1137 directly from Autokraft.
#10
I have searched the forum and found the Girling part numbers for the master cylinder (PMH117). Original number was 64066627. It appears it was used on the 1972-76 MK1 Ford Granada. Where can I purchase a new cylinder?
#11
I am new to the forum. Just wanted to ask what happened to all the spare parts stock at Autokraft when the business failed. Surely the parts are somewhere.