Messages

Ohhh I see... used to look on left site  ;D!  I had problem with the wire link lasting max. 500km and at the end did build a rod link.  From feedback from others they had same problem.  Maybe on left hand drive the wire situation is worse. don't know.

Very nice looking engine bay, clean and functional!  How you will get the connection from accelerator to carburettor?  A rod construction or cable?
Best Christmas present you got as I can tell!

The steering column cover is hand beaten aluminium metal and leather trimmed on my very early AK1005.  Hope this help a little bit.
Heinz

To 2.  A little switch should be located on top of door hinge.  The pin, connecting the door hinge to the frame has a little feature which would operate the switch indicating open or closed door position.
   To 1. No idea
   Heinz

Uwe, what you call reasonable?  I do have a set of 15" wheels as spare...with lovely Cooper Cobra wheels on it ;-), almost new...

Peter, I was not sure, that was the reason why I but a question mark behind.  But now Michael knows where to look.
   
   Heinz

Michael,
   
   I am not complete sure, but on the rear same disc was used on Aston Martin car, maybe it was DB 4?  At least on early cars this was the case.

Michael,
   
   the only thing I can confirm is that the differential is a limited slip differential from Salisbury, of course then with different gear ratios as it was specified.  Further Specifications I do not have.  I was looking in an old Autokraft sales flyer and it did say Salisbury limited slip differential.
   
   This I found on a Jaguar and a Cobra Forum, independently:
   
   From 1976-1985, the differential was a Salisbury 4HU Power-Lok that came with either 3.07:1, 3.31:1 (1976-1982), or 2.88:1 (1982-1985) ratios.
   
   Maybe this can provide the answer you are looking for?
   
   Heinz

Michael,
   
   In my opinion one of the most difficult tasks on this car, and if not performed correct, big costly damages can happen to bearings and half shaft afterwards.  Not sure so if the design has changed over time or not, but on my car it was not easy.  In order to disassemble the disk you need to get the half shaft out of the bearings from the nuckle and on assembly re shim again the bearing play.  The rear main nut needs to be locked again with 400Nm if I remember correctly.  (I asked how strong to lock the guys where I purchased all spares in UK - there answer was f***ing tight!  As this task was performed incorrectly by the previous owner of AK 1005 as the axial play was not correct, I had to purchase a entire new half shaft as well as all new bearings and seals. I can remember also that originally the shims are very thin and multiple will be needed.  I decided to manufacture after knowing the thickness a single shim by a lathe.  I know others on this forum had done the same as well.  Don't know also why, but the shaft material is very mild steel and therefore will be the first to be damaged.  This unfortunately is the most expensive part at the end as well.  I can look up some pics if you like and send, if you provide email.
   
   Regards, Heinz

The door handle....I would say

Peter,
   
   I would be surprised if that lower outboard gap should disappear when car is on it's wheels... as you will get bending on the frame, that should not give a 3 cm outboard movement at all.  I have never seen such thing, in fact, I would be very concerned driving such car.  In addition you did reinforce the tubes to minimize bending.
   On the other hand if that theory would be correct, don't paint the car as long it is not on wheels...otherwise paint will fall off when panels will be stressed / deformed by 3cm ;-)

There is a topic from 2013 on 15" wheel conversion called: "15" wheels" which will give you a good insight in what is needed, and what to do with the steering arms, which will - in most cases - need bending, as every car is a bit different.  I know from at least one person, that the Trigo's he purchased did not work on his MKIV.  I had purchased rims (Compomotive) from Gerry Hawkridge and they fit fine.  The Avon's sizes you mention is what I got fitted as well.  They are great tires making the car very safe.  But somehow, the great performance of the tires made my engine ( carb 351) look poor and the car unspectacular to drive.  At the end, after 3 years, I did changed the engine.  Hope you enjor car and hope your planned customizations will lead to the car you want.  I was working now since 2007 on my MKIV and found, that the only way to finish this project was to start on a new car! :-) Hope you enjoy your car and your planned customizations will lead to the car you want.

I found that the best way on AK 1005 was to remove / install the radiator from bottom - you can remove the two lower brackets an then drop it down.   Even with a big engine my fan starts only to operate when outside temperate is very high and car is not moving a lot (stop and go).

I would think that the engine in the car from moblie.de is also a Windsor based engine.  And the 347 stroker Emmanueld talks about, is also in most cases nothing else then a Ford Boss engine based on the 351, but with a 8 1/2" deck rather then a 9 1/2 " deck...
   
   A Ford Windsor 351 based "Boss" engine with 427 cui with a "very decent power" output of 537 hp, but with 767Nm (566 ft lbs) of torque can spin very reliable up to 6200 rpm and stills runs in manufacturer guarantee.
   
   I would think, most people will have a problem to switch into 5th gear when driving 235km/h in 4th gear, or ? So it is not about rpm...but think about how you reach that speed!
   
   By the way all of this is working without modifying the food boxes nor the 2" exhaust system for the engine, due to smaller heads, despite the fact that the endless torque in low to midd rpm range was the goal.  With such engine you will get only randomly above 4500 rpm on a road at fast speed, that's also the very nice thing of an American V8, as you get there very fast due to torque, and in case of the MK IV also still weight.
   
   We have a very nice saying, hp's (mostly based on rpm) are for the "beer" discussions with your friends in the pub, but torque is for the street!
   
   If I would have looked for rpm, I would have looked for completely other cars ;-), as the American V8 concept is not used to serve rpm...

Gary, my differential had a little sheet part with one of the fixation bolts bolted to the rear housing, and the ratio was stamped into it.  Took me a while to find, as it was all painted black and bend to the housing.