Messages

I changed the fanbelt on our 2 litre saloon last year, I think I just cut the damaged one as I found a spare in the boot (grandad was so organised like that.
    I will have a look at the car this week but I think the gap between chassis and wheel was just big enough to squeeze the new on in whilst turning the engine with the starter handle.
    The two engine mounting bolts at the front were adjustable on eccentric spindles so turning those (temporarily) might give you a slightly bigger gap. What does it say in the owners manual..... anything about this small gap?
    As far as getting a new one, I'm sure someone else can help as I've no idea!
    Good luck.

Problem solved, for the record the dipstick is not threaded it's just a tight, slightly conical cork type push fit seal, which was rotating.
    My grandad had tied a piece of shoelace to the dipstick to aid pulling but this had dropped down out of sight.

Thanks Robin...yes I've been using Ian's site a lot and have had quite a bit of help already...especially with removal and cleaning of the fuel tank I did last weekend.
    Funny....last night I thought it would be quicker to post on here, as it's quite a routine maintenance job!
    I'll ask Mr Strange!

Thanks for that, will probably use modern for now and get some traditional type when I'm not so busy.
   
    Sorry Julian, I seem to have inadvertantly hijacked your thread!
   How's your acceleration problem, any joy?
   
   Keith.

That's great, had no idea it was that simple!

Any luck with your problem yet?
    Well I finally got the thing running, and she's ticking over very nicely.
   Anyone know where I can get some new HT leads? I think the insulation is degraded! It looks fine but I keep getting quite a zap when I grip them hard!!!
   
   Keith.

Have you checked the fuel filter? just a thought,
   Keith

wish I could help ya mate! but i've not got that far yet! and I can't get a spark at all!!!
   good luck with it anyways. looks like my petrol pump's not pumping, and there's quite a bit of corrosion on the HT socket in the coil. Interesting problem anyway you've got there!
    Keith.

Thanks Robin that's very helpful.
   I will try and locate one of the images I've seen of the out let from the full flow filter feeding into the rear of the engine where the cam chain is housed.
    This (I think) will explain my confusion.
    Keith.

Thanks Keith,......will do!

Thanks Keith,
   Well I have installed the outer ones dry, but before reading this I used the red stuff on the centre one, Now I don't know whether to dismantle and use silicone based or continue and see if the red stuff works.
    I mean it says on the packet that it seems to be ideal for this job, well you learn by your mistakes so unless there's a clear (chemical or physical) reason not to use the red 'stuff' then I'll continue with assembly.
    Will obviously let you know how it goes!
   Keith Penny.

Thanks Robin, I have totally forgottn that e-mail..... I'll PM you my adress, your e-mail got lost in the long list of emails on my works computer (if it was the .ac.uk address).
    I guess we've all got our funny ways and I'll have to get used to ordering this specialist stuff over the internet.....I really like to pick things up in person!!
    Once again your help is really appreciated.
   I will certainly require your engineering services when I come to rebuilding the old UMB1346 engine.
    Keith.

Cheers Keith,
                Saw some of that Castrol Classic in our local shell garage, glad I didn't pick some up now.....especially at that price!
    So it seems to be a myth that modern multigrade's can do serious damage to old engines? This is stated on The 2 litre website by Ian(?) Strange.
    and does anyone know where I can get an oil filter for the post war engine.....the concertina cartridge that fits into the orange unit.... there's so many types available.
   
   
   Keith.

Thnaks for that Keith, I've just learned from a friend that de ionised water is the best thing, and a 50/50 mix with antifreeze.

Well I've solved the problem, the (probably very common) one of the gasket mating surface not being perfectly flat. Looks like this middle one is seriously exposed to leaks and hence corrosion. Now machined (1/2mm removed)and will (probably) red gasket compound on both sides of the gasket.... I originally just expected the gasket to seal and using this compound might have meant it not necessary to re-machine a flat surface but then again.... I'm a bit of a perfectionist.
    Still would like to know exactly why this water contact is necessary, as I would have thought the studs would transmit the heat fairly well.
    Will report on progress.....