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Messages - Superarnie Mk2

#1
Hi Laurent, I have a Moroso 7qt kicked out and baffled sump on my Superblower. If memory serves me right the part number was 20502??
   Regards
   Gary
#2
Thanks Rob, I will do.
   Regards
   Gary
#3
Thanks guys for your inputs. I have since removed my Aeromotive pump and stripped it down to find one of the two magnets which surround the motor winding had broken off and attracted itself firmly onto the windings! The pump is Knackered!. I am unsure if it is as a result of a manufacturing fault or an inherent problem with my fuel supply. I have ordered a new Bosch 044 pump which I have read good reviews of. I have turned my pump mounting bracket upside down which will drop the pump by about 2 inches below the tank. The pump pre filter bracket will be modified this week to place it below the tank as well. I'll keep you posted!
#4
Hi Rob, thanks for the info and image. The trough underneath where your fuel pump is, is where my tank is unfortunately. I have no drop from the fuel outlet from my tank to the pump. If I was to work out some sort of bracket to mount the pump lower, the ground clearance would be very little. I'm struggling to think of a solution. I'd be interested to know if any lightweight owner has an electric pump and if so where it is mounted as I suspect their tank will be mounted in a similar position to my own.
   Regards
   Gary
#5
Hi Rob. Thanks for the advice, my fuel supply hoses are correct and I have the correct filters before and after the pump. I'd be interested to know where you have mounted your pump. I think though with the mK4s the fuel tank is mounted high up behind the rear cockpit bulkhead so attaining a 4 inch drop, I'd guess was quite straight forward. On my car th tank is mounted low in the boot so I am having difficulty with that drop. I suspect that may be my problem though.
#6
Hi Ron, is your fuel pump electrical or mechanical? I have an electric pump fitted. It is a new Aeromotive A750 and is located close to the differential. I have only run my new engine in total for about 1/2 an hour but my pump has suddenly stopped working. I believe the pump is cooled by the fuel that travels through it so I wondered if there had been fuel starvation and it may have overheated or maybe suffered from cavitation issues. Another thing I have considered is that the fuel pump is gravity fed from the tank but the drop from the tank to the pump inlet is negligible so wondered if that may be an issue. I have since given it a gentle knock with a mallet and the pump kicked back into life, so I'm not sure what the issue may have been. I would be interested to find out if anyone else has had any similar problems. I'm not expert Ron, but could the white powdery stuff be corrosion, you often find aluminium materials corroding in that way. Sorry I can't offer further advice.
   Gary
#7
Hi Peter, I hope you are well and enjoying these beautiful Spring evenings. I'm right at the point of firing this bad boy up! Just need to finish connecting up the oil cooler, prime the engine oil system, and we're done!! It'll be interesting to hear how it sounds. I suspect the neighbours may soon get fed up with it! I hope to have it IVA'D in the summer and then it can finally be registered. After 14 years!! It's been a brilliant project though, really enjoyed it. Liz rolls her eyes when I mention a new project!
#8
Thanks for your help and advice. I understand what your previous owner has done with the distancing panel. It certainly will be an option if I can't find shallow depth speakers. Ac Cars had pre-cut the speaker holes in both footboxes on my car, and so I wondered if they additionally built a distancing panel above the holes to create depth or if they found a suitable speaker. I have been to a local car audio business,  they are going to search the market for quality speakers but with shallow depth. I will keep you posted. I would be interested to know what speakers are fitted to the Superblower cars, having said that I doubt the footboxes would be of a different profile to the mark 4's.
#9
Nick  does it have a remote starter solenoid? If so could that be the issue rather than the switch?
#11
Hi Michael, if you're struggling to replace your discs, you could give Bg Developments a call, they are based in the Midlands and I'm sure they would make you replacement ones using your old ones as a template. They are very good!Very professional.
   Just a thought.
   Gary
#12
Nick, having dwelled on my earlier post  I seem to remember that the drive shift has a sprung star type washer fitted to the shift which I think, again from memory, prevents the shift sliding up and out of the pump. The issue here is that you may not be able to pull th shaft up and through the dizzy hole and of course you will not be able to apply the Spring washer on the new shaft and drop it down. I may be wrong but that thought is rattling around in my head.
#13
I'm no expert Nick, but having just recently built my Ford 5.0 engine for my Superblower  the oil pump drive shift can be placed down into the oil pump via the distributor location hole and then the dizzy will drop down onto the shift. That said  I would be a little worried about all the broken metal particles floating around the bottom end  To take the sump off is an engine out job  I think.
   Regards
   Gary
#14
Those images seem to be better! Not sure what I've done differently!!
#15
Here's a couple of images of the radiator. It has a big Spal fan mounted to it. All aluminium. Serck have done a nice job.
   
   
   
   
   
   I'm not sure if I'm uploading the images correctly - if anyone could advise? They seem to paste very large and off to the right of the screen??
   
   Regards
   
   Gary