Messages

Finally managed to get the Greyhound to Baskervilles and the toe out was "off the clock" so hopefully will give better castor and a lighter feel.  Unfortunately whilst in the shop we found that the silicon fluid had done for the master cylinders and the servo.  I should pick it up this week and will report back.  Fingers crossed!

Michael

Once we had it apart it seems that the silicon fluid had damaged the seals so after some discussion we have ordered 2 new master cylinders and a new double ended booster. Also will be flushing the brake system and using DOT fluid.  A bit wallet damaging but say it quickly is my mantra!

Thanks Ian.  Worth checking out.

Mike

On the 200 mile drive back from the Gaydon AC meeting I noticed that for the final 30 odd mile the brakes started to bind/drag.  I had this happen on my freshly rebuilt XK140 many years ago and it was simple a lack of clearance between the pedal and the master cylinder so as the fluid warmed up the brakes started coming on which in turn warmed the fluid even more.  I actually ground to a halt!  After an hour of cooling down I drove home and adjusted the clearance; all fine.

I had a look at the Greyhound twin cylinders and could not see how to check this.

Can anybody advise please?



Michael Ralph

I have a very original greyhound but unfortunately no tool kit.  I can obtain the tools but what I really need is the circular board or a pattern.  Can anybody help?  I do hope so.


Michael Ralph

I have identified the problem.  There was a tiny amount of slack at the ferrule at the pedal end and there was a spring fitted to the pedal (looked non standard?) which was holding the pedal back initially.  By simply removing this spring the pedal has no initial dead motion and the pedal response and feel is transformed.

TYRE PRESSURES.

I have checked and the tyres are Avon Radial steel 185 R15 and set at about 27psi all round.

I would be interested to have views on tyre pressures before I start trying anything different.

Michael

Thank you both for sharing your knowledge, really useful.  I realised when trawling through the history file that I do have the AC instruction book which I have to say will come in handy if I decide to rebuild the gearbox, but certainly contains plenty of useful info and data.

So far I have checked and greased the numerous points on the front suspension and noted that the steering turns lock to lock nice and smoothly which is comforting, also all the rubber type bushes are good.  Next I will check the tyre pressures and tyre manufacture.  From memory I think they are Avon radials.

Whilst writing, are new disc rotors available anywhere or can they be skimmed as I feel under braking a very slight judder consistent with slight run out of the discs.

Michael

Thanks Graham. Some useful points there.  My particular greyhound was fitted with Cobra wheels in the sixties and that I would think would make the steering a bit heavier .  They do look lovely though.

I am going to thoroughly lubricate and check tyre pressures.  What range of pressures would you look at?

Speaking to IN racing he agreed that his Greyhound had steering heavier than his 400.

Many thanks so far.

Michael

I notice my greyhound has heavier steering than my Bristol 400 which is of course slightly heavier.  The centering is also less effective.  I have been told that this is quite normal and some owners have the front wheels adjusted to toe out slightly to improve the centering.  I would be really interested to hear any views or advice regarding this topic.

Michael

Thank you for confirming that a cable linkage is standard.  So far I have replaced the return spring that runs from the shaft down to the bracket on the side of the engine and this has brought the idle to a steady 8 to 900rpm, still slightly high do you think?

I will now have a look and see if I can remove this initial play in pressing the pedal itself.

Michael

I am a new member with a Greyhound.  My car has a cable from the throttle pedal to the carbs and I wonder is this normal.  I have a Bristol 400 which has a similar Bristol engine and the connection is with rods.  When I press the accelerator pedal there is an inch or so of movement before actually activating the carbs.  Any advice on where this apparent slack may be adjusted out as it makes driving in traffic more tricky.  Many thanks in advance.