Messages

I recently put Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/T P235/60R15 on the front 7.5 X 15 Cobra II wheels and P255/60R15 on the rear 9.5 X 15 Cobra2 wheels.  The new M/T tires replaced Dunlop G/T Qualifier P235/60 R 15 (front) and Dunlop G/T Qualifier P295/50 R 15 (rear) that was on the car.  My Mk IV has the original muffler in the wheel well and the 295's where way too wide.  M/T's do come in a 275/60, but I was concerned it may still be too wide, and its diameter is 1 inch larger than the 255/60 tire.  Thus, I went with the 255/60 on the 9.5 X 15 wheel, and IMO it looks just right.  I drive spiritedly on mostly country roads at speeds under 60 mph, and the tires feel and handle great.  The price in the states for 4 tires (on sale) is about the same as one Avon.

For those not fortunate enough to have a 2- or 4-post lift, I recommend the Omega 29023 Low Profile Hydraulic Service Jack.  It's not aluminum, but it is very low (2.5 inches) and very long, and makes lifting a Mk IV a relatively easy job from any approach.  See it at: https://www.amazon.com/Omega-29023-Profile-Hydraulic-Service/dp/B000RFUETA    ... Lower prices can be found, but shipping is problematic: Weight = ~120 lbs.   Got mine back in 2008 for $242 + $6.99 S&H.  That $6.99 S&H is not a typo!

quote:Originally posted by MkIV Lux
   
is it not stated on the identification tag in the engine bay? or did the German tuner alter the plate?
   

   
   On my car the chassis number (e.g., 1240) was stamped on the block, located on the right front corner below the water pump.

[65]

quote:Originally posted by AC Ventura
   
I have a aluminium. MK IV 1993. I researched this extensively before ordering from Avon as I didn't want he car looking undertyred. I went to the trouble of making precise hardboard templates and attached them to my 15" wheels and checked the rolling clearance empirically in all steering positions.
   
   I concluded and fitted with no problems.
   
   Front Avon ZZ 225/65/R15
   Rear Avon ZX 275/55/R15
   
   There are great benefits to this combination, in as much as both front and rear are the same diameters and look great. The front 65 profile as opposed to the commonly fitted 60 is a full inch bigger in diameter, which will give you more ground clearance and as well as a more period high profile look.
   

   Any chance you can post a picture?

RE: http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/ac/cobra/1759058.html
   
   AK 1141 appears to have an interesting recent history.   It was first advertised in 2011 with ~7200 mi in Atlanta, Georgia    for $77,900.  In 4/2015 it was reported to have 7163 mi on the clock, and was advertised from Toronto, Ontario, Canada for $139,000.  More recently the car was advertised by The Stable in Sparta, New Jersey for $165,000, and most recently (above) by the Private owner for the same price.  Note, based on the advertised mileage the car hasn't moved since 2011!  Hard to believe nobody appears to be interested in driving this car!  Within the context of the current classic car market feeding frenzy, it must be seen only as part of someone's investment portfolio.

quote:Originally posted by AC Ventura
   

quote:Originally posted by nikbj68
   
So hammer price was £55,000... I`m still saying bargain!
   

   
    I know dealer asking prices are almost double this figure...

   Dealer asking price is really irrelevant.  Hammer price is irrelevant also; the cost was £82,500 (or about $127,000).  This is significantly greater than the mean verifiable sale price (currently about $95,000 or £61,688) that I've seen.  The low is about $65K (~£42K back in 2006) and the high was the Dingman Mk IV at $170,500 (~£110K).  The latter may be higher since I don't remember if that value included the buyer's premium.  Thus, £82,500 in the current market doesn't seem like a bargain to me.

quote:Originally posted by nikbj68
   
Oh wow, someone got a bargain! I would have thought £75k-£95k with commission would have been realistic!
   

   Not really, I think it's true market value. It looks like US and European prices are equalizing.

[original "slabside" design]

quote:Originally posted by rstainer
   
The description 'slabside' (US origin) is normally used for kit cars and other replicas: see 'The word.....SLABSIDE' topic.
   
   Nothing about a leaf spring Cobra is remotely slabside.
   
   RS
   

It appears that Shelby American would beg to differ.  From their on-line brochure at http://www.shelbyamerican.com/images/pdf/cobra-flyer-sm.pdf:
   
   In 1962 Carroll Shelby created the most sought-after American muscle car in history, the Shelby Cobra. The 289 model of this snake went on to become the first American-made FIA world Champion in 1965 and later evolved into the ultimate expression of power and performance with the 427 SIC model in 1966. The 427 Street version (CSX6000-Series), the 289 FIA (CSX7000-Series) and the original "slabside" design from 1962 (CSX8000-Series), are still being produced today using improved materials and components.

quote:Originally posted by AC Ventura
   
I couldn't establish a bullet proof date of manufacture. Our own ACOC factory records seem to show manufactured Jan 1986, but vehicle records seem to show 1985.
   

   December 1985 is stamped on the AutoKraft Manufacturer's plate on the car... Assuming its authentic, you can't get more bullet proof than that, can you?
   
   See the plate pic at: http://www.rosnermotorsports.com/1985-autokraft-ac-mark-iv-cobra-roadster.htm

quote:Originally posted by Spantik
   
AC MkIV for sale in Switzerland (ad in German) for 189'900CHF.
   Green body with beige intérieur.

   AK1120 sold for $90,000 in January 2014 at Auction: Lot F234, Kissimmee, Florida (BRG/Tan stock 6,119 miles, no top or side curtains).  Asking price of $95,900 on eBay in May 2014.  More pics here: http://www.rosnermotorsports.com/1985-autokraft-ac-mark-iv-cobra-roadster.htm
   
   Now asking ~$202,555 in Switzerland!  It is well known that the Mk IV gets considerably more respect in Europe than in the States, but I didn't think it was that much more respect!

This is what I have gleaned from past posts:
   
   Brake master cylinder is 1972-76 MKI Ford Granada ( 2 versions-7/8"or 13/16" bore).
   Girling part # G 64679152Q123 X
   Original Girling part # 64066627, new reference # PMH117
   
   Let us know if you confirm any of it.
   
   Art

quote:Originally posted by Kiwi Cobra
   
Not sure why you would consider the fix I made "over engineered" ANF289 when the original rubber electrical bulkhead grommet masquerading as a bearing was woefully inadequate and completely inappropriate for the application. I can't see the point in simply replacing substandard parts with the same again when an improvement is available. We all have different resources available as well as skill levels . My fix was easy for me to do so I did it and I'm really pleased with the outcome as well as having the confidence of not having to revisit it ever again I suggest. Cheers.
   

   No value judgment here, it's just the way it struck me.  Good to hear you are pleased with the outcome.  As stated previously, it is an impressive design.  However, that "original rubber electrical bulkhead grommet masquerading as a bearing" lasted 27 years in my car... not bad for something that was "woefully inadequate and completely inappropriate for the application".  Your modification is certainly within my skill set, but I'll stick with the original design.  Brian Angliss must have been channeling Colin Chapman when he decided to go with that grommet, and I like that.  Best.

quote:Originally posted by Rob.Hendriks
   
Nice bit of workmanship Steve, good to see kiwi ingenuity is still thriving and has progressed past No.8 wire
   

   Impressive piece of over-engineering!  At the opposite end of the scale here's a quick-fix for use until one gets around to ordering the original type bushing or creating that better mouse trap:  Take a 2 inch long piece of 5/8 inch ID heater hose, put a ~45 degree bevel completely around one end with a utility knife, and cut a 1/16th inch wide notch around the hose about ½ inch away from the beveled leading edge.  Just cut deep enough through the top rubber layer and strip-off to form a groove.  Then make a spiral cut through the length of the hose.  Spray the beveled end with a little silicon, wrap the hose around the distal end of the steering rod inside the pedal box, and push the beveled end through the steering column bush support bracket until the groove locks the heater hose in place.  It effectively eliminates all play in the steering column, and would make for a simple and fast repair for those that have the bush disintegrate during a road trip (like mine did!).

quote:Originally posted by jbottini
   
I knew from where the answer would come "the Oracle of buffalo"
   

Agreed... thanks Mark IV!

quote:Originally posted by PANAVIA
   
Greetings , - good to meet all of you.
   
   I was wondering if anyone here had an AC MkIV from 1987 ,88 and had their owners manual handy.
   
   the question is;
   
   Does the 1987-88 Owners Manual Schematic refer to the EFI system, or is it still the schematic for the 1984-1985 Carburated car >?
   
   thank you all !
   
   Steve ( Panavia )
   

From a previous post:
   
   You are correct, my Owner's Handbook (like yours)appears to be for an earlier carbureted car, and not a fuel injected 302. The diagram on p. 29 clearly shows an air cleaner for a carburetor. There is no mention of wiring for a fuel pump (I assume the carbureted cars have a mechanical pump). What's interesting is that the Mk IV Owners Handbook posted at: http://rides.webshots.com/album/31597373CwUCdBYNFd shows a fuel injected engine on p. 29, and refers to a fuel pump (#22), a fuel pump relay (RY1), and a fuel pump fuse (#20, 20A). Apparently the factory was a little late in getting their handbooks up-dated.