Messages

Here's another bit of background. My car was supplied by Rudds; it was on Michelin X when I bought it in 69 and the handbook had a pencil note on the useful information page saying - Rudd recommends 28, 26 tyre pressures. Seems fine to me, whatever tyres.
          Cheers
                    Ron

Hi Jonas,
              my mileage is all in The British Isles, furthest North being Orkney. Previous owners had borrowed the Bristol Overseas kit from Thames Ditton on occasion so it has been to Europe, I assume. When I bought it, it was just a stepping stone but somehow the cars character and Bristol exhaust note made it a constant companion for work, holidays, shopping, fishing trips.......
              It should say "with wishbones supported and wheels in the air" don't you think.
             Happy Motoring
                                    Ron     

Hi Jonas,
             I have done about 315,000 Km over 52 years.
             I am using 165x16 Avon Turbosteels, which are good enough.
             My official AC handbook says that if you adjust the steering box correctly, it will give unlimited service!
             I run mine with i/16 inch toe in on each wheel at the wheel rim. This is as recommended in the handbook.
              I agree that old cars and poor roads need a certain technique.
              If the idler was stiff could there be wear in the mounting bolt fixing holes, allowing up and down movement?
              Cheers
                          Ron 

Jonas,
         Just for background, my Ace has never had tracking problems on Michelin, Cinturato or Avon Turbospeeds. It has the original unrestored box and has done about 450,000 km. The only problems are a leak at the oil seal and it's too heavy for my partner.
          I assume all ball joints are sound.
                  Regards
                              Ron   

Does anyone know of a good mounting method for sun visors, or do I have to carry on with the AC cap?

Hi Peter,
            The Finberg team at Kings Langley have been making all Ace bodywork for decades. try Nick on 07966461960
            Cheers
                       Ron

Thanks Luke, that's very comprehensive. After reading it I could be tempted to fit the woodrim wheel hanging in the workshop but, as it's a slightly smaller diameter it would make the steering even heavier so it will stay put.
          cheers
                    Ron

Decades ago I dismantled and fixed the switch mechanism at the steering wheel. I have a fault now but have forgotten how to open it up. Can anyone advise?
         Thanks
                     Ron

And Finally,

Hi Chris,
            More photos

Hi Chris,
            I have a neglected flat screen Ace hardtop. At the screen there are three cleverly braised brackets that slide in the screen groove and have a holed flange. At the front of the hardtop there are three corresponding angle brackets bonded to the fibreglass. At the side there are angle brackets that align with the hood stick anchors. At the rear there is an angle bracket screwed to the fibreglass incorporating two holes that align with the central hood "lift the dot" fasteners. It all looks a bit Heath Robinson, see attached motley photos, so may or not be AC; the top is at least 50 years old, sidescreens are AC so it probably is.
Trust that this isn't confusing
Regards
              Ron   

For the record; I removed the head and sure enough it was a sticking valve. No. 1 exhaust guide was cracked at it's tapered end; it looks as though products of poor combustion had been accumulating on the guide, occasionally stopping the valve closing and cracking the guide. A check showed the same on number 4. Based on advice from historic racer, new guides fitted, shorter and without taper and ignition being checked to explain poor combustion.

I fitted these Weber carbs to my 100D2 engine in 1985, to replace the leaking and worn standard Solex units. They were supplied by Chris Montague Carbs, set for Bristol engines. They bolted straight on using the standard Vokes air filter, fuel connections had to be modified. I recall there were some initial jetting problems and I got advice from Barrie Bird. Since then they have been fine. I still have the bill for the changed jets but unfortunately not the exact description. Barry may still be able to help.

Hi Tony,
Thanks for your interest and warnings. No stem seals are fitted. New standard valves and guides were fitted, but this doesn't preclude insufficient clearance. On removing the pushrod an oily/aluminium deposit was apparent around the pushrod head at the valve end. This could be the result of the rod rubbing on the sleeve over time. I don't think it would have occurred after the rod fell, as the rod would immediately stop moving. I am presently investigating the sleeve.         

Thanks for the interest and speculation.
Carburettors are the only modification  from standard 100D2 spec.
Camshaft was checked and fine at time of head overhaul and springs were tested. Inspection now shows springs ok. Problem happened at a modest 3500 rpm. so bounce should be relevant
Valve clearances were checked less than 1000 miles ago and are standard at 2 thou. cold. My Bristol Engine Manual states that this will result in a running clearance of 8 thou. So more likely to drop out when hot.
Nick Finberg from Classic Autos has never heard of it either.