Messages

Can't locate the bill at the moment Keith, but from memory it was just under £100 - plenty enough but cheaper than getting a new one machined up.

Hi Keith, we seem to be following a similar path.  When my speedo drive packed up I got a replacement (inner and outer) from Richard at RW Racing (he advertises in ACtion).  Be aware that there are at least four types, and at first sight they all appear the same - it's only when you put two next to each other and count the teeth and direction of rotation that the differences are apparent.  Mike

Thanks Ian.  Haven't been able to get down to the Parrot yet but please add Marion and me to the list for the 25th.  Regards, Mike

I see your point of view Max, but another way of looking at it is this.  Entry for two on the gate is £40 (or £32 if you apply in advance to Brooklands Musuem), so for £10 more you get your runs on the track.  Just an unbiased view because I'll be getting in free anyway as a trackside marshal.  I'll be in the holding area between the paddock and the track - so nobody upset me please or you won't get to the start line!
   Regards,
   Mike

Good result Keith.  Only trouble is that now you can use it something else will wear out.  The windscreen wiper motor on mine packed up in the rain on the way home from VSCC Prescott last week, but at least I was able to get a NOS replacement within 24 hours.  See you at Wings & Wheels?
   Mike

Hi Keith.  I got Bagshot radiators to rebuild mine with a new core.  Very helpful and friendly service at a fraction of the price I'd been quoted elsewhere.  Together with one of Robin's nice pumps all seems to be going well with no embarrassing leaks and running at about 150 degrees.
   
   Regards,
   Mike

Recommend that you use traditional type of HT leads with wire in them instead of the modern stuff.  One advantage is that you can solder on spade terminals for the spark plugs to give a good connection.  However if you do so and are running a postwar engine watch out because the cross pipe for the choke assembly is a bit close; better to insulate the pipe to avoid the risk of a short circuit.  Good source for electrics for classics is Auto Electric Supplies.
   
   Mike

Hi Keith, My car will be back on the road for the next Barley Mow meeting, but regretably we're run out of time for Goodwood.  I will be happy to meet up to show you what I've done.  If you're buying an electric fan make sure you buy a 'pusher'.  It comes with an assortment of fitting brackets and I was able to make up a 3 point fixing - two horizontal and one at the base where there's a flange that sticks out at a right angle over the starting handle assembly.  The kit included fixings that pass through the radiator core, but the man who built my new radiator warned me against using these.
   
   If you're intending to use the car in VSCC events, as I hope you will, they don't mind electric fans but take exception to electric water pumps (and alternators, but that's another story).

If you get one of Robin's pumps you will also need to get/make a new fan because there won't be enough space to use the ship's propeller.  I also fitted a new slim-line electric fan for which there's just enough clearance between the front of the radiator core and the slats.  You can get one from s-v-c.co.uk.  Currently it's simply wired to a switch on the dash, but with the rebuilt rad I'll have a thermostatic switch as well.

If it's anything like on my '36 Ace, the knurled knob is on the top of a brass thermostat housing.  Unlike modern thermostats this is a butterfly valve attached to a bimetallic spring, the idea being to restrict water supply to the radiator when the water is cool.  On mine the valve (which is simply a circular disc) had been removed many years ago - presumably because it didn't work properly.  Try removing the disc to see if this solves your problem.
   
   Until last year I was trying to persevere with the original water pump - mine was the version with a 3 blade cast aluminium fan which looked as if it came from one of the boatyards in Thames Ditton.  Biggest problem was keeping the grease separate from the water.  I gave up in the end and fitted a new one from Robin Woolmer.  That's fine, but now I'm having the radiator rebuilt as it is rather incontinent.  It's all good fun isn't it!

Hi ace4.6, I've been out of touch with the forum and only now seen your posting.  After several years of trials and tribulations my '36 16/70 dhc is now in good shape.  Happy to compare notes with you, car and I are based in Surrey.
   I was planning to bring the car to the National Day but now a change of plans.  I had a bad fall last week and can hardly walk at the moment.
   Regards,
   Mike Dawes

Hi rnibler, I've just seen your post.  Hope you got the car and are enjoying it.  My view is that 15/20k is far too low if it's all up and running and needs little expense to be usable.  Look at what alternative dropheads there are that can cruise all day at 65/70, have loads of luggage space and good spares availability; and for some of us it also needs to be VSCC eligible.  For those objectives the only alternatives are really MGs and Alvis for which there's more of a market and higher prices.  The ability to rebuild/replace a PVT AC engine must have made a significant difference to the market for our cars.
   
   By the way have a look at the DHC posted on prewarcar.com a few days ago.  Described as 1934 but looks like a '35 model.

The LAT photograph archive on www.austinharris.co.uk is a great treat for anybody interested in vintage motoring.  It includes 50 photos featuring or containing ACs from the 1920s, and I particularly enjoyed seeing the one of Joyce at Shelsley Walsh in July 1924.
   
   Mike

Any other PVTs planning to go to Powis Castle on 11 June?  I'm hoping to be there with my '36 drophead (and at VSCC Oulton Park on the previous day).
   Mike