Messages

Lonzo,
My 1985 MKIV also has Spax dampers and I can confirm you have the correct part numbers.
Just a thought - have you checked the clerance from the ground to the underside of the forward ends of the chassis tubes?  If they are equal the problem is more likely to be related to body mounting or wheel-arch shape.
John.

Hi Laurent,
It's difficult to make out from the picture but I guess these are the Peugeot 504 calipers.

Not sure if the part no's are current but pads were listed variously as Ferodo FG258, FG463, FDB71 and Mintex MGB560.  Ferodo also suplied Fitting Kits (which included you missing spring-plate plus pins) as FBA408.

Hope this helps.

John.

Laurent,
   My 1985 MkIV is only identified by the AK number on the car and official paperwork BUT the factory records do show a full VIN.
   Have you contacted the Mk IV registrar, he may have details?
   John.

Michael,
   
   Have you tried Peugeot specialists?  http://www.504.org/CatPiecesDetachees.htm  should help identify the O/E numbers. You need Chapter 44B.
   
   John.

Uew,
   
   I replaced mine a few years ago.  Oil Seal,Outer:70x85x8 R21.  Oil Seal,Inner:Original carried #W31917550 R4,was metal cased but had rubbed on drive flange.  I replaced with slightly shallower, double lip 1 3/4 x 3 3/16 x 3/8 R23 with rubber case.  Bearing, Outer Timkin 2774/2720. Bearing, Inner: NTN 2788/2720.
   
   Bearing King in the UK were most helpful (usual disclaimers) but I don't know if, in particular, the Timkin is still available.
   www.bearing-king.co.uk
   
   John.

Michael,
   Have a look at 'Girling Brake & Clutch Hydraulic Illustrations 1960-1980' Illustration 307 (AH12 Caliper) and 'Girling Vehicle Applications MG ..... Reliant 1960-1980' Peugeot 504.
   
   Thanks to Rob for the very useful link.
   
   John.

Nick,
   
   If it is the same as my 1985 car it is Rover SD1 (the column shroud is rectangular with two 'storks' plus a light-switch on the opposite side to the key).
   
   I believe Rimmer Brothers repatriated all the SD1 parts that went to India so would be worth a try (www.rimmerbros.co.uk)
   
   John

Michael,
   
   I'm afraid Heinz is correct, not an easy job!
   
   The disc/upright assembly needs to be removed from the car and the single central bolt clamping the upright to the stub-axle removed.  This allows the upright & bearings to be removed thus giving access to the nuts securing the disc to the stub-axle.
   
   With air tools and good access - hoist or pit - it might be possible to remove the drive shaft and access the centre bolt with the assembly still on the car but I haven't tried this!
   
   The central bolt is very tight and it seems the factory often used a high-strength Loctite which means it is tight all the way off not just the initial break-torque.
   
   Good luck.
   
   John.

Many years ago I asked the factory how they set up this joint from new and they said 'about in the middle'.  I assume they then used the forward radius rod (in front of the wheel)to set Toe.  There must be a reason for use of this complicated joint and I would be interested to know if anyone does know why.
   
   Incidentally, I know the Handbook specifies Toe Out on the rear but I think the general view is it was  a misprint and should be Toe In (about 2mm) with 0deg.30min. Negative Camber.
   
   John.

Peter,
   
   Yes, that is the one - thanks for posting the picture.
   
   A 90deg. nipple makes it easier to grease but otherwise the same.
   
   The complicated joint has rubber-ring seals but they don't work well therefore re-greasing is necessary to stop squeaks.
   
   John

Hi Uwe,
   
   I don't have a 427  chassis book to refer to but it sounds like the 'lower wishbone inner bearing to chassis'.  1082 had the same problem and I drilled and tapped the boss to take a nipple.  I will try to get a picture to confirm.
   
   John

Hi Uwe,
   
   Has the inner joint on the lower-rear-wishbone rear link got a grease nipple?  (that is the adjustable joint that connects the wishbone link to the chassis).  Some early cars did not and that can cause a squeak.
   
   John.

GVS104 does look similar but it might be worth checking the cut-in/cut-out temperatures.  The original switch in 1082 was rated at 70/60C and the fan never cut out!
   Otter identified the switches as Y-Series and my original was number 02082.  They found a better alternative under number 02012 (85/75C)which Unipart also stocked (#222674).
   I am afraid this was all some 20 years ago so availability has no doubt changed a bit!
   AC eventually found me an 92/82C switch which is ideal but I'm afraid I never did have a part number for that one.

Sorry this is a bit late but if you have the same cailipers as AK1082 they are Peugeot 504/505 Part No's 4400.11 & 4400.12 (not sure which side is which). They are Girling AH12 Mk 3 types, Girling No's 64033853 & 64033854, TRW/Lucas No's BCT125 & BCT 126.
   
   Repair Kits are/were available under Peugeot No 4449.15, Lucas No SP2582.
   
   They are unusual calipers to work on so have a look at Chapter 8 of the workshop manual at http://www.504.org/general_GB.htm.
   
   Hope this helps,
   
   John

Hi Alan,
   
   Thanks for the information.  I assume we are talking about the rear brakes, in which case my car was just the same - I had assumed it was a one-of!! (fronts have a short rigid pipe which was correctly metric at the caliper end).
   Goodridge made some new flexibles with UNF fittings at the inner ends and M10 at the outer.
   One thing I don't remember measuring was the rear bleed-nipple/port threads.  They felt OK but they did not appear to be standard Peugeot 504 so now I'm wondering!
   Does Gerry know if they are also incorrect?
   
   John.