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The cover catch mechanism is accessed via the cockpit rear trim panel. The cover is removed by first removing the L/H & R/H quarter trim panels (held in by one screw per side accessed with the hood cover open. Once screws are removed slide panels forward to release them where they clip to body door shuts. The rear vertical panel is held in by two screws concealed under the rear edge of the carpet. Once removed, lift panel vertically to release it from two retaining clips located towards the upper part of the panel (easier with hood cover open).   
The catch mechanism also incorporates the micro switch which signals ecu the cover is released and can begin hood operation.
On my car the hydraulic ram micro switches are located internally in the offside (R/H) ram bodies.

Hope that helps. Max

I don't use my Ace much so not had much experience using E5 or 10. But during the past 3 years I've had to change split pump hose connection in the tank 3 times. The original Ford hose became rock hard and split, and first couple of times I replaced it with Jag P.I. hose from 70's (long before ethanol had been dreamed up), which clearly didn't like being permanently immersed in E5. Last replacement was with hose supposedly able to cope with E5 at least. However, cranking the engine recently pressure was slow to build, but not investigated further.
It's quite likely the hoses either side of the filter will fail (again had to change one of those in recent years due to going soft). Time will tell effect on Ford fuel rail hoses. Biggest worry for me, being aluminium, is potential corrosion of fuel tank

Max

It's a smart looking tank Nev. But looking on ebay there are new original Ford Fiesta tanks listed in the £30 range, which appear to be MK2's, although I've not enquired. So I'm surprised you say there were none available.

A separate discussion on implications of E5 and E10 would be useful. Any one care to start it?

Would be interested to see photos of the new tank. I had assumed the original was a Ford item - no longer available?

On unrelated matter, do owners have thoughts/experience of the effects on fuel system of E10 petrol? Last time I started my car it took several turns of the ignition key to get fuel system up to working pressure. I've not checked, but being rubber I suspect the duck bill non-return valve has likely perished.

Hi Paho

I can't claim to have used any more technical approuch than to copy the same gap as my Daimler Double Six which looked about right and proved okay in reality.

Regards Max

To clarify I went for wheel arch clearance of 2 inches (3 fingers for convenience) which equates to 5.25 inch ground clearance measured at sill lower lip.

From my experience there isn't a problem with the rear springs becoming coil bound - only the front springs have that problem! The rear springs are much lighter than XJS.

The thumping is a result of the shock absorbers hitting the bump stops because there is insufficient travel available between ride height to maximum deflection. I first experienced it going over a repair in the road. The shock was sufficient to trigger the fuel cutoff valve causing car to grind to a halt. Although I had only had car a short while at the time I had spotted the valve in the boot so knew what had happened. 

Hi AcemanToo

When I tackled the suspension probs many years ago I found the rear shock absorber travel was not equal distance above and below ride height (I decided on three fingers gap between tyre and wheel arch which equates to about 4 inches) – there was less travel from ride height to bump stops compared with suspension fully extended. To obtain equal travel I relocated bottom shock mountings closer to wheels ( I welded the brackets directly above the tube linking the two wishbone arms). I retained the original Konis and springs, but had several different thickness spring packings machined to bring the car up to desired ride height.

Did the same with front suspension – relocated the shock lower mountings further out to achieve equal travel above and below ride height and fitted longer Konis to suit increased distance between upper and lower mountings and to increase suspension travel. Finally had new springs made to achieve 1) correct ride height 2) accommodate extended travel 3) eliminate coil binding issues.

Not had issues with grounding or hitting bump stops on normal roads since.

Hope that helps.   

Shame Factory didn't retain enclosed style headlights.

Yeah - impressive camera angle. Looks really cool!!! Nice colour too.
   
   David S. Although I've not used Ace for past couple of years, for the 16 years of ownership I've always struggled with emissions. Even though my trip to MoT garage requires 40 odd mile blast round M25 (traffic permitting) I still have to run engine at 1,500 rpm for 10 minutes to get within limits prior to test, yet my everyday Corsa just sails through. Garage says its to light up the cats, but I'd have thought dash round the motorway did that. I don't argue (just relieved it gets through), but I reckon something's wrong somewhere cos engine has irritating tendency to stall shifting from drive to reverse.

Thanks Shamea2.
   
   I'm surprised more people haven't posted pics. Most classic car owners are only too pleased for excuse to post photos of their beloved motors. Perhaps Ace owners are more preoccupied keeping their cars on the road to find time for photos!
   
   Did you sort the cause of fuel leak?

   
   I make no apology for previously posting this pic of my Ace. It was posted a long time ago and still remains my favourite shot of the car.
   
   Shame AC did away with the rubbing strips on later cars (ACE 94T is a '94 car). Although the source of subsequent corrosion problems, in my opinion the strips enhance the appearance of the cars by continuing the bonnet shut line the length of the car.

Very tidy looking car. How many miles on the clock?
   
   I see you have a blown one. If you really want to exploit its full potential I would recommend fitting the usual power adders - alloy heads, aftermarket inlet manifold, 65mm T/B, Ford Racing headers (exhaust manifolds to you and I) and maybe 1.7:1 roller rockers. The cast iron exhaust manifolds are particularly restrictive, so regardless how hard the 'charger is pushing air in it can't get out because of the puny ports. The Ford Racing headers are fabricated so able to accommodate more generous ports. The ceramic coated ones are worth the extra - retain their shiny silver appearance with discolouration.

Yeah - to get an effective seal of windows on both hood and hardtop is a bit of a challenge - get it right on one and it won't be right on the other! I didn't bother with the hardtop fit on mine cos never use it. If your problem is the glass isn't going up enough to squeeze the top seal there is an adjustable cam type stop on the gear quadrant limiting the height the glass extends. Adjusting this up shouldn't affect the sealing when using hood.

Very pretty. Does yours have a hood as well as hardtop or like mine was its hood removed by factory before selling? I bought mine back in 2000 with last hardtop available from factory, which Duncan Hamilton had trimmed out for me. I was fortunate and subsequently bought a hood, although getting it to fit and work was another matter!