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For those that are interested, I have entered my 16/66 into the June sale at Mathewsons Classic Car Auctions. I apologise for not knowing how to do a link but if it helps, it is lot number 440. I also have an Ariel Atom in the same sale, lot number 450.

What a beauty

Hello Ben,
It really is down to your choice as both have pros and cons. I prefer the conventional setup after using electronic systems in the past and being let down.

Electronic systems are only as good as the electrical system in the car. If your voltage regulator isn't as good as it should be then the variable voltage to the unit could burn it out. If the unit fails then its time to contact a break down service as you are stuck.

Contact breakers are only as good as the maintenance given to them. Cheap parts can be more trouble than they are worth, especially the condensers. If anything fails, you can usually repair or replace at the side of the road and get going your self.

Both systems rely on all the other components being in good order, rotor arm Distributor cap, distributor bearings, plug leads etc

Yes, Philip, there are a couple of suppliers advertised in the owners magazine,
ACtion.
Due to the cylinders being removable wet liners it is not usual to rebore them but replace them and use the original pistons with new rings.
It may be worth using the new style gaskets designed and developed by Rod Briggs.

If memory serves me correctly, 45ft/lb is the start point. I suppose it all depends upon the conditions of the studs and block. If its had lots of serious quality work reconditioning done, then you may be able to up that to 55. If it is a block that has not been cared for over the years then it may not be advisable to push it.
It's a guessing game deciding if the studs have wasted and are week or have oxidised with the block are are seized solid.

You might find something at Burlen fuel supplies.
Sorry dont have a link for you but an internet search should come up with their website.

Colin

It can look attractive, I have seen some high end motors that have tailored leather. For low mileage usage I think it pointless.
There is another chain of thought to yours though. That of that the binding is to stop dust getting in. In the days of old many road surfaces were poor and dust would contaminate the lubricant used and create grinding paste, wearing the leafs quicker than wanted.

It looks good. 👍 can we do emoji's ? Yes I know I have one here but it came up on the top of the keyboard, not self selected.

Hello, and welcome to the site. Congratulations on your new car. It looks really good.

My car is a lot older (1935) so I can't answer your specific questions. However it is possible to get manuals through the club. The rpm should be able to reach 4500 /4800 without issue. Top speed should easily pass 70mph, if not as much as 80mph. I think you're right about hub caps. Older cars have the facility to lift the steering column, I suspect yours may be the same. A little play in the steering can be expected, if memory serves me right, it will pass the UK mot test with as much as 1 inch wiggle each way for that age of car.

I do hope the forum members get in touch and answer your questions better than I have and that the car gives you great pleasure in the future.

Kind regards

Colin.

Hello 57,
Sorry I don't have one. Can I warn you to be careful of any new Lucas parts that come in the green and white boxes. There is a lot of rubbish out there posing as original stuff. I am not saying it is all bad. Try to get things from a reputable supplier. I have even been the victim of new crap being put in an old fashioned box and been sold as new old stock.
I did however replace a solenoid with one from Holden Vintage spares. It is not original pattern but it has put me on until I get round to sorting things out. The one I got has a push button on the end. Just don't push the button with the ignition on and the car in gear.
Colin

Hello Paho,
I am a little, at a loss as to your post. Can you please explain how the email system is used. I have sent a message to the recipient in the last postings and he has sent one to me. I haven't, and he hasn't, received an email. All we have is a message on the forum. Is that what you mean or am I missing something?

Hello Flagship.
I hope I can help you, and I will as much as possible. I have very few bits and pieces but your welcome to look through what I have.
Can I suggest a meeting. I live close to you, over in Oulton near Rothwell, and after doing a full restoration of a 16/66 it may be worthwhile having a look through my photo album of the work done and I can let you have any contact details I have for craftsman and suppliers.
It will be nice to have an owner so close.
I have just forgotten how to send a personal message but when I remember I will let you have my number.
Colin

Can you tell us which type of box you have ? I think the main two types are Moss or ENV.
On my 1935 car I believe it to be an ENV. If it is the same then on the right hand side of the box there is a brass plug in the middle which is for filling. There is a second plug that sits horizontally in a flange that is cast into the box casing. This second plug mentioned is the level plug and when the oil spill over then the correct level is achieved.

The car is back up for sale at the same auction houses next sale (next week). I have recently visited the venue with other interest and spoke about the car with a staff member. Apparently the bangers and cash restoration crew bought the car, but then decided it may be too much for them and decided to change there plans. Lets hope there is interest  in the car and it finds a good home.

Hello Ian, I hope someone can help more than me. Anyway The youtube link below shows the start up of my engine. It shows a temporary setup for testing purposes. I have no idea if this is a bodged arrangement or what was actually used. It may help for a general view or better still, get your post generating some interest.

https://youtu.be/toaENiYjrxU

By the way, I know what you mean about the risk of mascot bandits. I remove the mascot from the cap and put a dome head bolt in it. Its not an ideal answer but will put me on until I can get a plain cap.