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Messages - j9nno

#2
Thanks for trying Graham.

I don't know Clive.

Do you know his member name as I can't find him listed in the members profiles.
#3
Thanks Graham I've seen this Austin stuff already.

Unfortunately, and as far as I can see, there is no adjustment for the field brush on the CAV dynamo fitted to the Royal. Neither is there an earth on the cut out.
You simply switch the charging on when driving via the panel switch on the dashboard. After a period you switch the dynamo out of charging. When running switched out I guess that there is minimal charging to the battery and you switch dynamo in when running lights at night.

It's unlikely we will drive the car at night and would trickle/condition charge the battery when parked up.

I just want to get the wiring completed as designed.

Maybe a meet up with a Royal owner so I could meter out the connections is the way forward.

I live near liverpool so who is closest ?

John
#4
Hi guys,

There's not a lot on the internet that covers the 3 terminal setup used on the Royal. It's all mainly Austin 7 which has an adjustable 'Field' brush.

Having established now that the control box is in fact a 'cut out' and not a regulator I've made slow progress.

The cut out is a Type E. It has 3 terminals D-, B+ and D+

On metering and using the rearmost terminal on the dynamo as the 'Field' the terminal nearest the front of the engine would appear to be D+ and the next terminal D-

As the vehicle is positive earth I'm guessing that the D- has to switch thru to the battery feed side of the starter button so it can charge the battery when the Dynamo dash switch is on ?

Does anyone know what polarity the top half of the switch panel should be as it is totally insulated and could be wired either way.

John
#5
Some progress today but still require help.

Does anyone know the 2 main terminal designations (of a 3 terminal dynamo as fitted to the AC Royal) as D- and D+ ?

The control box on the bulkhead is in fact a 'Type E 12v cut-out' and not a regulator.

It is marked up as D-, B- and D+ (Looking at it and reading left to right) but I don't know which dynamo terminal is which (yes I've searched the net).

Then all I need to do is sort out Dynamo switch cabling at dash panel (to switch dynamo in/out when running lights so as to top up battery)

Any help appreciated.

John
#6
Quote from: j9nno on January 16, 2018, 14:41:18
Hi Guys,

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the Royale ?

Particularly interested in the main dash CAV switch panel.

Need to understand the way that the dynamo wires in.

Thanks.

John


Anyone got any diagrams or can explain/show the cabling from a three lug dynamo to the voltage regulator ?
I could then probably work out the the wiring into the switch panel.

Thanks in anticipation.

John
#7
Well today she drove under her own power !

https://www.facebook.com/danielle.needels/videos/10160820155030727/

So a bit more fettling and then sort out the rewiring.
#8
Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / AC Royale Wiring
January 16, 2018, 14:41:18
Hi Guys,

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the Royale ?

Particularly interested in the main dash CAV switch panel.

Need to understand the way that the dynamo wires in.

Thanks.

John
#10
Test image link










#11
Hi Guys,

Happy New Year.

Been doing a bit since last posts so thought I'd start a new thread.

Car was stripped and body removed after letting in some new timber to keep braced.
Engine sent to local guy who and can't wait to get it running. It's had hardened exhaust valve seats fitted, modified Iveco valves, modified Nissan Micra pistons, new hardened tappet rollers. Carburetor tho old is not original but will do for now (it came fitted on car so is expected to work).
Rear brakes relined and rebuilt. New speedo cable. Speedo, 8 day clock and oil pressure gauges sourced. Ammeter away being rebuilt.
We are not restoring the paintwork and want the car to look old.
Latest challenge is sourcing a starter motor !

Will post some pictures once I work out how on this site.
#12
Great news.
   Half shafts are out and one drum off.
   90 years of thick mineral oil and suction pulling on the hub/shafts but finally got them out and one drum off.
   That's progress !
#13
Thanks Jonto,
   
   I'll have another go over the weekend.
   I thought that the spring and collar would stop the hub/half shaft being removed.
   The half shaft does slide out to the end of the wheel studs and you can feel it is against some force (the spring I guess) which is probably the felt pad/collar snagging.
   I'll give it a go again !
   
   thanks
#14
Thanks jonto.  So you saying that once the 6 flange nuts undone that the half shaft and outer flange should simply pull all of the way out ?
   I thought that there is a spring rebound mechanism limiting the amount that the half shaft pulls out giving acces to 'C' clip and brake drum retaining nut which when removed allows for the drum to be part withdrawn but allows access to brake shoes. So I don't need to undo the 4 retaining nuts at the rear of the assembly as this is only to gives access to the felt packing ?
#15
Hi again.
   
   Still struggling with getting the brake drum off even after following advice.
   
   Anyone got tips Slide hammer, 3 leg puller.
   I have undone the retaining clip and large nut  and the bearing has been well lubricated/greased but it just doesn't want to seem to move off the threaded centre.
   I could undo the 4 retaining nuts at the rear and remove the entire drum/half shaft assembly but thought I'd ask first.
   
   Thanks.