Messages

Hey John,
   
   My email address is Blair@RevitAuto.com
   
   If there is anyone who has a lead on car locks and ignition switches I would be happy to talk with you. We have finally opened the trunk, and were successful with finding a suitable key. Luckily Pete Groh over at British Car Keys lent me every FP style key possible (76) and I tried them all till one worked.
   
   Also in need of a new ignition switch and both door lock tumblers as they have just been ruined with age of no use.
   
   Happy Motoring,
   
   Blair

Hey John,
   
   I was not able to find any chassis numbers yet. I wish I had another car to compare it to in order to know what is original and not. I did find a piece of the frame section that holds in the master cylinders to be cut from the now passenger side. (If that makes any sense to you)  The rest of the paneling that is riveted on covers additional signs, and peeling back all the carpet proved to be more difficult with the amount of glue sprayed.
   
   I am just starting to get into the rats nest of the wiring under the dash, is there any way you could take a photo of the dash and label what each switch is supposed to do. It would save me huge amounts of time! Also the key that starts the motor does not open any of the doors, is this a common thing? I am trying to find a proper locksmith!
   
   Happy Motoring,
   
   Blair

Hey Gang,
   
   Sorry for the delayed response.The Hoon had its first drive around the block this week! Very exciting stuff, especially with the v8 pulling it around.
   
   If someone could please add these parts to the parts interchange.
   
   Napa Autoparts Oil Seal 15160. This is for the Hub Seal. Purchased from Napa Autoparts
   Timken 1997x-20024 Front Hub Bearing Purchased from Dalton Bearings_ Summit Racing has these also
   Timken 09067-20024 Front Hub Bearing Purchased from Dalton Bearings_Summit Racing has these also
   
   Girling Master Cylinder, Small Reservoir - 0.62 inch Bore Purchased from Pegasus racing online Part Number 3500-.62
   
   
   Rear Brake Line Part Number 813-1203 This connects the braided line to the rear wheel cylinder. It is 12 inches long and requires one adapter G60693-0303, This comes with the fittings on the line already that will work with the wheel cylinder. We Purchased ours from power track LTD
   Purchased from Napa Auto Parts.
   
   Happy Motoring Guys!
   
   Blair

Thanks for that Info! Do you know the Front Wheel Seal part interchanges? We have the driver side inner door panel off. Next time I am at the car I will be sure to check those 4 places. Although we do not have keys for the doors or trunk! Working on that this week!
   
   

quote:Originally posted by RevitAuto
   
Thank you for that lead, I will be sure to give them a ring. I was talking with the Glassman who just restored a greyhound and was telling me about the hefty price for them! I really appreciate the info!
   
   
   

quote:Originally posted by B.P.Bird
   
Blair,
   Crossthwaite and Gardner still list the Wellworthy Alfin drum. On the G'hound, if on 15" wheels, the outer two, sometimes 3 fins need turning to reduce in height. Their part number AC100 is for the Ace/Aceca and the G'hound rear hub mounting PCD is larger and has larger mounting holes. However there is enough room between the Ace holes to machine the 6 holes for the G'hound. This was common practice at Thames Ditton if they were short of one type or the other:
   
   http://www.crosthwaiteandgardiner.com/parts/ac-parts-list
   
   You could ask C & G if they would supply drums undrilled or even ask them to copy a G'hound drum.
   
   Warning - If you go anywhere near the hub interior remember G'hound rear hubs are handed on the threads for the locking ring D63240-1 and locking nut D63024-5 (as in all A.C. part numbers if you see an oblique or an hyphen with another sequential number following it means there are two parts one left and one right.) The hub on the port side should be the one with LH threads, but they can be built into the wrong side .....
   
   

   

Thank you for this, Mark sent it over. We will be adding bearings as we had a failure of a wheel seal and the spindle and bearings have rusted. The spindle is salvageable and part numbers are clearly on the bearings. Wish I could say the same for the wheel seal! Any chance you might have one?
   
   

quote:Originally posted by Teamdeck
   
Nik,
   Would love your thoughts on what car this is. I have done some research but no luck.
   It has a "southern Oregon vintage racing enthusiast" sticker on it, which is a club in Oregon. I reached out to them and they had no knowledge of the car when they asked a few of the British car nuts...surprising given the rarity. I've contacted the museum that owned the car a time or two and nothing back.
   I haven't found any numbers on the car yet.
   Would love any intel you may be able to provide.
   Hoping to get her on the road soon.
   Best
   Mark
   

Thank you for that lead, I will be sure to give them a ring. I was talking with the Glassman who just restored a greyhound and was telling me about the hefty price for them! I really appreciate the info!
   
   
   

quote:Originally posted by B.P.Bird
   
Blair,
   Crossthwaite and Gardner still list the Wellworthy Alfin drum. On the G'hound, if on 15" wheels, the outer two, sometimes 3 fins need turning to reduce in height. Their part number AC100 is for the Ace/Aceca and the G'hound rear hub mounting PCD is larger and has larger mounting holes. However there is enough room between the Ace holes to machine the 6 holes for the G'hound. This was common practice at Thames Ditton if they were short of one type or the other:
   
   http://www.crosthwaiteandgardiner.com/parts/ac-parts-list
   
   You could ask C & G if they would supply drums undrilled or even ask them to copy a G'hound drum.
   
   Warning - If you go anywhere near the hub interior remember G'hound rear hubs are handed on the threads for the locking ring D63240-1 and locking nut D63024-5 (as in all A.C. part numbers if you see an oblique or an hyphen with another sequential number following it means there are two parts one left and one right.) The hub on the port side should be the one with LH threads, but they can be built into the wrong side .....
   
   

Hi Motorheads,
   
   Thank you all for the replies, sorry for my delayed response I was out of the country. I really appreciate all of the assistance in sourcing parts! I will keep you posted on our results!
   
   Happy Motoring,
   
   Blair

Hi Motor heads,
   
   My name is Blair, and I will be doing a bunch of the wrench work on Marks Greyhound. We were able to do an initial assessment of the car. The chassis is in pretty solid shape, a few place where a few patches will need to be made, but over all very solid.  The car has made its first trip around the neighborhood at very low speeds.  The master cylinder seals failed, we found a few girling units online and are waiting for them to come in. PowerTrack supplied new front pads and new rear brake cylinders. We are currently looking for a new set of rear shoes, if anyone has a lead on parts that would be a huge help.  The passenger window is indeed cracked and we are looking for that as well. We were only given 1 key for the ignition which unfortunately is not working for the doors nor truck. Mark is itching to get in there. I pulled the door panel apart and will take the lock to a locksmith to have a key made.  The 302 is very stock, and we have had a brief conversation about swapping in era correct parts (Ford 260) but that's way down the road.  Does anyone have a parts interchange they would be willing to share? All of the repairs and services I do on the car will be recorded and will post links so other people can navigate around their car a bit easier.  I spoke with Mike Gassman who has told me he cant find rear drums and is going to have them custom made. Does anyone have a source before he goes down that rabbit hole? If not lets get a group together and get a run of them made.  That's it for now, Happy Motoring, Blair