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Probably a scam - this car was the subject of a forum "Topic: Greyhound for sale on eBay - running project" a little while back. The car was originally sold on Bring a Trailer in 2017.

I used P.D. Gough:T: +44 (0)115 938 2241 and  www.pdgough.com

They were very helpful, had, already had made a number of them and were quick to deliver to me in the US even though a UK firm.

I'm actually seeing him in 20 minutes - I'll talk to him about it - luckily my doors are off (as is the skin) so there's plenty of pattern available to him..

My theory is - calculators. when we did things by slide rule, in our heads or by hand calculation we had better sense of the "correctness" of the results. So many little things have been forgotten that we learned from day to day work. For example, in these bearing housings we're talking about, there is a nut that holds the bearing, and this nut has a set screw. The originals have a bit of lead in the hole that prevents the set screw from buggering up the threads, and not one of the "rebuilds" I've taken apart seems to have this little piece of lead..

I expect your original can be repaired - Closest to you is probably Gassman Automotive (184 N Bayard Ave, Waynesboro, VA 22980; Ph: (540) 949-8764) - they have a 56 AC Ace Bristol in there now and have done a Greyhound. Mine (BEX 298) is with Richard Mullin in PA (2485 Yellow Springs Rd, Malvern, PA 19355; Ph: (484) 318-7198) - I think Mullin's coachwork is the best and other shops send to him - not sure about Gassman's coachwork but was impressed by the Greyhound at Simeone Foundation retrospective.

Unfortunately, no matter how accurate a CNC machine can be, it is only as accurate as the guy programming it....

Hmm, not encouraging picture-wise but at least you can click on the link and it will send you to it..

So this reply is an experiment on trying to post a picture following instructions from the picture thread, as well as a comment on these housings. I have also purchased new bearing housings from IN Racing, and used them without modification. I have rebuilt several Ace/Aceca rears. I have plotted the hole centers of the bearing housings for the diff stub axles for original ("left/right" in picture) and INR bearing housings ("new" in picture). The originals from both my BEX298 and an early Aceca diff/axle seem to be based on a 2-3/8 bolt centers. The original left side/right side pin locations from the same and from different cars have quite a bit of variation. The new ones from INR seem to be something else entirely. As for the dowel pin locations, I am guessing the original is a polar dimensioning scheme rather than an ordinate, but INR might have been thinking ordinate in the translation when copying for CNC machining. Though neither way works out to be a homerun for those of us that like precision. The originals and the INR new ones both work, however, because there seems to be quite a bit of play from loose tolerances. INR supplies them from the shelf with dowel pin holes already drilled, while Gerry might have realized the variance problem so recommends custom from the beginning. If the INR off the shelf won't work, then I would simply ask whoever you decide on to make them (either INR or Gerry) without drilling the dowel pin holes and then have them drilled to match your diff case. If the photo sharing doesn't work, I can just email it to you off line.. Ian
   
   

Not sure if this helps but the 2.6 Gallay radiator was the same one used in the AC Greyhound. These Greyhound radiators were reproduced as a "direct fit radiator" in aluminum here in the US by Wizard Cooling believe it or not (www.wizardcooling.com) and can be ordered with standard 1" ($600) or upgrade to 1.25" tubes ($700).  I have never been a big fan of aluminum radiators being in favor of bank-breaking custom repair work for originality but worth investigation. I can't tell what country you are in but I have a Greyhound with a 2.6 installed that's missing its radiator (hence the previous knowledge) so if you do go the bank-breaking route let me know because I might want to have one made.

I was referring to knowing the one at D&D - BEX235, which is a long boot car. Ron was handling it in the early 1990's while I was looking for a project before I bought mine, but BEX235 had already been converted by the 80's. I never saw BEX231, But BEX235 was brought into the US by the 1970's. BEX235 was also exported to Jack Fernancez in Venezuala on 7th December 1956. It's possible both cars came into the US at or about the same time.

Interestingly enough, D&D Classics in London has a similarly converted 1956 AC Ace Bristol with period Cobra 289 engine - ex-Venezuala delivery - BEX235 (only 4 numbers off!). This BEX235 car is Red, so you can have your pick of colour. I knew this car in the US when it went through Ron Leonard...

Hi Mark,
   I own BEF2545 which has been completely apart and is now going back together. It is the car with Mike Engaard at Ragtops. We found the chassis number in the following places:
   (1) On chassis itself, top of front shocktower on right side - on the lip closest to the engine (might be on left side if LHD car) - full number BEF2545.
   (2) Stamped on the wood frame in the rear trunk lid (I believe number only, e.g., 2545).
   (3) Hinge in hood (bonnet for you in UK) between bolt holes - number only.
   (4) In pencil on the back of at least two of the door cards and other trimmed interior components - number only.
   
   As an update to the above conversation about brake drums, I was speaking with Crossthwaite and Gardner (I know them pretty well from other projects) and they manufacture the drums but don't sell them directly - you need to contact Mr. (Mark?) Finburgh of Classic Autos of King's Langley for purchase for Ace (01923 262994). Apparently,they are now out of stock at C&G but Finburgh may have some Ace drums on the shelf. However, since they are OOS, C&G will soon be making a run of Ace drums. If you want these but with the Greyhound PCD or undrilled, then contact Finburgh and maybe he can run some with the others. As stated above, no one uses pure Alfin process to manufacture the drums.

Hi Blair, Typecast Engineering Ltd. in the UK (web: http://www.brakedrum.co.uk/; ph: +44 (0) 1455 822440; email: admin@brakedrum.co.uk) makes brake drums for a large number of cars including AC Ace and Greyhound. The stud hole pattern in the Greyhound has a bigger diameter than the Ace but otherwise the drum is essentially the same. I had proper autocad drawings done of my original Greyhound drum, sent them over and they made a pair for me, but I was also going to 15" rims so we designed in the reduction of the outer fins to accommodate this. Not inexpensive: they are 390 GBP each and "a run" won't drop this price. Long lead time as well: they are about 14 weeks before delivery. I don't believe I ever saw another post here mention them, so I would be curious if any other members have dealt with them for their Ace and have an opinion as to performance/quality.

The comment above is that 75 of the 82 Greyhounds left Thames Ditton with Bristol Power. Putting the AC engine aside for the moment, there were three Bristol engines: 100D2, 110 and 110S fitted to the car. I think most of the Bristols fitted to Greyhounds were 100D2 (128 BHP at 5750 RPM), which was in a Greyhound I drove (equipped with the standard 16" rims) but really wasn't anything to write home about. The 110 series had much better low end torque characteristics, with the 110/110S being 105/130 BHP at 4700/5750 RPM since they were designed by Bristol for the heavier Bristol 406s. IMHO the best authentic road test for the Greyhound would be a 1961 or later car ftted with the Bristol 110S and 15" wheels, against the rest of them including the AC engined car to show the real in-period potential of the design. Also, there are various comments about fitting the Ford 2.6 Zephyr, but I would assume that a proper period comparison would be with a version like the Rudd RS 2.6 Aces had, with a stage III or stage IV level of tune.