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Many thanks!

A number of years ago, when I was previously a member of the ACOC, there was talk of putting together a list of which cars our parts originated from. There must be a huge store of knowledge amongst the members and a parts list would be a wonderful thing to have! We all know that the windscreen is Ford Sierra, but (for instance) did you know the screen sealing strip was apparently Renault? I've found out where quite a few bits started life so, if we all put our knowledge together, it could save weeks of fruitless searches. I bet someone responds now and tells me it's already in place....!

Next question!

The interior windscreen trims, the ones at either side that are covered in Alcantara - does anyone know how they are attached and how to remove them please?

Does anyone know what the top ball joints are off please? They look rather like XJ6 ones but being as there's so much Ford stuff on the car, that would seem unlikely.

Many thanks for that! Just for anyone's information, the ABS pump and valve block are both Escort RS Cosworth Turbo and there's a Cosworth breakers called,strangely enough, RS Cosworth Breakers at Portchester, Hampshire; phone: 023 92379000 and 07968 005319. Talk to Gary who is very helpful!

Good to see the article! Is the hood and its mechanism really off a Peugeot 306 Cabriolet? My hood is vertical to the rear of the side window but a Peugeot 306 hood appears to be curved - any ideas please?![:)]

Well, all solved! A brilliant mobile auto-electrician called Mark Eaton came to see the car and did the usual checks - he found that the coil was getting 5 volts from the live feed and so went looking for a wiring problem. The answer was some loose wires on the under surface of the under bonnet fuse box. Push them home properly and BINGO! starting problem solved! The car now starts first time, every time! The previous two electricians picked on the coil and the ECM as the culprits, but mistakenly so. As aresult I now have two new coils spare, plus a new ECM and the engine management EEC as well! Oh, and a distibutor cap, rotor arm and a set of plug leads! Logic and common sense fly out of the window when you're clutching at straws.......
   Many thanks though to all of you who made suggestions as to the solution. None of us thought of the real answer!

Engine dead I'm afraid! That's the weird thing about it all - if it does fire up, the car goes like a train! Trouble is, it hasn't shown inclination of starting since the final great run about a fortnight ago!
   Watch this space though!

Hi Max,
   The battery is very good with plenty of power reserve. The fact that the engine cranks over at a good speed suggests that the engine is suitably earthed as well. The auto-electrician proved to be fairly basic in his knowledge, so no success there! I'm hoping to arrange a visit from a mobile specialist for Tuesday or Wednesday this coming week so fingers crossed! I'm going to get him to check the steering column ignition lock to see if that is breaking down in any way; I'll also get him to isolate the alarm immobiliser just in case there's a fault with that.

Neil Fisher of Redline has a set of wiring diagrams for the Brooklands Ace. I asked him for a copy some years ago but he couldn't find them. Might be worth trying him to see if he's found them in the meantime. I once spoke to the man who designed all of the Ace wiring - I think his surname began with a K - not much help I know, but I've got his contact details somewhere. If I find them, I'll post them here.

The mystery deepens! Having now fitted another new coil, the non-starting continues! A meter across the + and - connections on the coil gives a constant 12 volts with the ignition on. A spark tester fitted to the king lead produces a strange result - on cranking the engine there are two initial good sparks and then nothing, but, when you stop cranking, there is a final good spark as the ignition / cranking is turned to off. I've substituted the original ignition control module for the new one and still get the same result, two good sparks then nothing no matter how long you crank the engine, and then, on turning off the ignition, a final, single, good spark. I can't find any mention of a ballast resistor or a capacitor in the Ford Mustang workshop manual and neither have we found any sign of a diagnostics port. There is an engine run relay in the central fuse box behind the dash but substitution doesn't make any difference. The engine management IC is new but replacing the old one makes no difference - the symptoms remain the same. All fuses are good (last resort stuff now!) but I'm running out of ideas. Could it possibly be the ignition switch itself? All ignition type wiring and plugs look sound and all contacts appear good. Thank to everyone for their ideas so far! The original alarm system (FoxGuard) was replaced about 7 or 8 years ago with a Toad alarm. Any ideas on whether that could be the problem? I can't even tear my hair out because I haven't got any.......

Hi Graham,
   Thanks for that - I didn't even know it had a ballast resistor! Where will I find it on the car? Is it the small alloy cylinder with one wire coming out of it next to the coil? Or is that just a suppressor for getting rid of interference on the radio?
   Cheers, Patrick.

Hi Max,
   
   Tried to start the car this morning but still no success. I fitted a spark tester between one of the plugs and the appropriate lead -result, erratic spark, every now and then a really strong one, a few weak ones, then no spark at all then a strong one etc etc, no pattern to the interval between sparks i.e. no sign of a regular spark. The leads, plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm are about three thousand mles old,and two years old at the very most, the coil, ignition control unit and engine ecu are all new. I've got a brand new set of leads, distributor cap and rotor arm to fit as a final attempt, but, if it starts, the car runs without missing a beat so it's unlikely to be the last three items causing the problem. I can only think that there's an intermittent short somewhere in the ignition circuit but I can't see any signs of rogue sparks or flashes from anywhere on the engine. I've checked inside the distributor and the electronic ignition looks ok with no sign of arcing or burning. I've got a mechanic coming on Tuesday or Wednesday to run a full diagnostic check on the circuits and components so hopefully he'll be able to fix the problem. I need to know if there is a diagnostic port and where it is located before then. Hopefully the combined expertise out there will know![:)]
   Regards, Patrick.

Many thanks to you both for your ideas! The strange thing is, once the car has started (if it does) it runs like a dream with no misfires or hesitation. The coil and other parts are all correct for the engine - supplied by the most helpful American Car Parts - strongly recommended for good prices and quick service. I'm going to have another go at the car tomorrow - new fuel filter (changed it about five years ago) and also a check on the pump on the petrol tank. Although I can hear it pressurising the system,maybe there could be some fuel blockage, partial or otherwise. I'll let you all know how I get on. Is there a diagnostics port on the car do any of you know? Once again, all help and ideas gratefully received!

Hi Nev, Many thanks for the photo! I've sent an email to you regards the problem. Regards, Patrick.

quote:Originally posted by Nev
   
Mail sent with link to photo