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At the risk of sounding a bit offensive, I always find it funny when people complain that ACtion lacks content when they do not make any effort to provide content. Yes it takes time to write something, and that's why ACtion should always prevail as the main source of quality content, in my opinion. The forum is great for exchanges on technical stuff but the more personal stories should stay in ACtion. They both work well and should keep having their separate lives.
And yes I would like an in-depth journey on Mr Southee's 2L as always reading about the stupidly expensive cars is getting a little long in the tooth.

Hello,

Is there any "Umweltzone" anywhere near or around the hotel where our cars may not be allowed to drive in/through?

Thank you Robin. They rebuilt the tacho of my Ace a few years ago. Very pleased with their work.
I will check with my friend if he can give me the rest of the cable.

Good morning all,

A friend needs a speedometer cable for his 16/80.
Are these a standard length? I was only given the speedometer side of the broken cable and the rest is apparently still on the gearbox.

Thanks in advance.

Some drawings of the internals are available here, see pages 4 and 5.
Parts 14, 15, 16 and 18 seem responsible for the speedo input.

Bertalanffy, how bad is the inaccuracy of your speedo?
For what it's worth the needle on my speedo "bounces" a bit around the actual traveling speed, and it gets worse the faster the car goes, mostly above 100 km/h (=62 mph), but I guess this is simply due to old age. If yours is worse then perhaps it just needs a closer inspection and overhaul?

Comparing both speedos side by side suggests to me that the needle seems to cover exactly the same range between 0 and the highest figure, suggesting that only the facia is different between both. I could be wrong but I doubt that Borg Warner would have gone through the hassle of designing different drives just to account for speedo calibration. It makes sense to me that Smiths had to design their speedometers in function of any input "signal" a car manufacturer would ask them to work with. Perhaps things were even simpler than this and there were already some norms on this topic and it was just a case of choosing which off-the-shelf speedo would work, with no further adaptation, with the ratio of the gearbox output.

Barrie,

I have only driven the car once, this morning, since posting this topic, and I have only been able to notice so far that 4x 35 Amp fuses seem to be doing well. Hardly a scientific conclusion though...

Thank you, James.

What are the differences between a BWCR9 and BWCR12?

A careful read of the Bristol manual has shown that both types are only mentioned on the front page, or that I am an idiot for not finding out where the differences are clearly mentioned.

Barrie, thank you for the confirmation.

Thank you for your interest. The headlights were a bad example actually as their circuit does without a fuse.
I suppose I will have to try several combinations then.

Side question - Is it normal for the front side lights to stay on when turning on the mains?

Further analysis with a multimeter has allowed to identify the function(s) of each fuse. The extra fuses also most likely sit in the two round slots moulded in the base of the fuse box.

I still do not understand however why 50 amp fuses may be used for functions that most likely do not draw that level of current.
If we consider that the headlights on full beam perhaps draw the most current in the whole system, then perhaps they won't need more than 30 amp?

Good afternoon,

Is someone fluent with the fuse box on Aces?

The handbook says there should be 2x 25 amp fuses and 2x 50 amp fuses, which "can be readily identified by referring to the wiring diagram", except the W29340A wiring diagram that I have does not mention the amperage of the fuses illustrated.

Perhaps one with basic electrical knowledge and understanding would guess just by looking at the corresponding functions, but this is sadly not my case. For some reason the 4th fuse on the diagram is not linked to any electrical component anyway, whilst it does serve a purpose on my Ace, which goes in line with the mention of 4 fuses in use according to the handbook.

The handbook also mentions 2 spare fuses, but I do not have them and ignore where they should be mounted as there does not seem to be any extra room for these two in the fuse box.

Interesting James, thanks for sharing. So were you able to get your engine 100% leak free?
For what it's worth I heard a few times that a Bristol engine that did not at least sweat oil a little was probably because it had run out of oil.

Great work, thanks for the updates. Very interesting thread.

Every couple of hundred miles is exaggerating perhaps, let's say I do it once a year, which would be every 1,000 miles. I'm not suggesting the original set up is any wrong whatsoever, but between it and a clamp like on the picture I posted, to me the clamp is clearly a better solution.