Messages

[mmouss.]

Thank you for your answer AC Ace Bristol, but my engine is an AC, not a Bristol...

mmouss.

I appreciate   your engine is AC whereas mine is Bristol, I posted links as your  original post referred to plug  temperature  ratings, so I thought the links
would be of interest and helpful.

According to NGK catalogue NGK's  equivalent to Champion L85 /  L86/ L86C/ L86CC & L87  is their B6HS not B5HS, Which is a hotter /  softer plug .

Regards your latest question, reference 14mm & 18mm plugs,    Brian is right ,  14mm /18mm adaptors were ( are ? ) available so 14 mm plugs can be screwed into 18mm heads,  Just be cautious regards over length thread reach  into your cylinder head. / Combustion chamber.

B =14mm Thread pitch 1.25mm
6 = heat rating
H = thread pitch 12.7mm
S = Firing end construction ( Std  super copper core centre electrode.)

A = 18mm thread pitch 1.50mm

NGK  tel number  01442 281000 ( Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire. HP2 4SD


Keith
.

Hello,
I see many differet option for the Champion. What people are using? 82, 85, or 86?
I found a lot of Lodge HN as per manual, but some of them already burned... they seems not to like rich carburation, and i am still dealing with carb tuning so not ideal.
I am using NGK B6HS but they dont seems to run as nice as the Lodge, and i would like to try some altrnatives.
What are you using for a CLB engine?

As well, are you using the reccomended gap as per manual (0.015 to 0.018 inch, 0.38 to 0.46mm), or wider?
Thanks!
Eddie

Hello!
Sometimes I find water on the floor.
It seems to come from the back of the water pump pully.
It doesent do that all the time, and it is not much. Probably not yet enough to justify a pump rebuilt.

But i was wandering as well if this is a design feature. In the Pump drawing i see what could seems a drain passage before the felt washer protecting the bearing.

Any body know if that is really a drain, and so some water dripping is normal and by design from there?

Thanks!

On the Coolant, i realize that is explained in the manual.
The Company reccomends an antifreeze with high ethelene glycol content.

but i would go for just plain deionised water initally.

Eddie

Dear Micheal and all,

I time it statically and it runs fine!

So it was definitely out of time. I did the static timing with a Lamp.
i took the plugs off, rolled the car over in 4th and set the points to open on the "I" mark on the flywheel (12.5 degree advance as per the manual).
I disconnected the condenser, and used a lamp. It goes off, exactly when the timing mark goes trought the hole in the clutch bell.

Now the car keeps the idle, and i have set it around 1000RPM.

As well the engine runs about 100 degrees cooler! so there was surely something wrong with the timing.

I will now tackle carb tuning again.

Hello Michael,
Thank you. Indeed this is one of the possibility, in fact part of the issues started after i touched the distributor :-\ ...

so instead of dinamic timing, i will do it static and thake if from there...

The plugs are a black, no oily no wet, just a bit rich i belive.

Thanks,

Edmondo

Hello,
i did replaced the steering box oil with the Miller Vintage Worm Steering Box Oil.
https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Vintage-Worm-Steering-Box-Oil.pdf
It is a very very thick oil. that seemed thicker than the oil that was in the box. May be still the original Kamoil? who knows...
I have siringed out all the oil that i could (the box was half filled, so it has leaked some through the years, and filled the box to the filling hole with the Millers.
The box took approximately 150cc. Not sure how much of the old oil was still in, but i belive very little.
Best,
Eddie

Thank you Jonas,
the fuel is fresh.. so i dont think is that.
Yestarday I tried to spry some ether around the carbs and i was not able to find any leak. May be there are, but i was not able to detect any.

As well, i tought that the issue could have been float bowls venting as i changes a well the 3 slotted fiber gaskets, but i tested the carbs without retaing nut so fully open to the atmosphere and no visible change, so i belive the floats breath normally.

may be the issue in the end is just that i am doing long static tests, and never did any tuning on the road as the car has no papework yet so can not go out.
And may be this flood the engine after a while. may be some soot builds up etc etc as the mixture is a bit rich, and in the end the engine stalls.

I will try to do the MOT techincal inspectio as is. and then try to fine tune it.

i bought a can of ether starter. will try later.
I was thinking that may be is just fuel starving? may be the new needle valve are different? i didnt measure them, as i tought these were standard.
Or may be the float level too low? but then if set higher i belive it overflow into the carbs.

Hello Robin,
no! i didnt! i will try to buy an air leak detector spray anche check.
Eddie

Hello!
I am not still able to get the engine running right...
I am unable to get a stable idle. after a while it goes down to a point that then the engine goes off as is it too low.
As well it is very difficult to get the engine revving. I have to give little hits to the pedal to not flood the engine. if i push the pedal down the engine drowns and stops.
At times the idle seems fine, but then it goes down and the engine stops. This even if I set the idle speed higher.
To keep the engine running i need to keep give small trottle strokes, untill a point the engine finally is able to take the throttle and revs up. But then shortly after it goes down again.
Any suggestion on what should be the issue??

- I have between 95 and 110 PSI in all Cylinders.
- New Lodge NH Plugs with gap set as per Manual
- New Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm
- Distributor Points set as per manual
- Ignition timing set as per manual (no indicaiton on the revs on the book, i set it at 2500 RPM)
- New connections on the spark cables
- Foat Chamber level set as per manual
- New float chambers needle valves
- Few drops of SU Oil in the damper pistons
- needles centered in the Jets
- Approximative carburarion done ( 1,5 turn out and then adjusted from there)
- Approximative syncoronisation done (Hiss method, not very precise as per below i am not able to get the idle stable)

Thank you all in advance in case you have any suggestion!

Eddie

Nice,
looks a very original undercarriage and engine bay.
restored only outside.

Thank you Luke!
so, if copper was not the original solution, i might go rubber and solve the issue. I might install at least a piece of rubber pipe to interrupt the rigid copper pipe. it is rather long and rigid mounted might not be ideal.
Eddie

Thank you Luke!
thanks for your tips, after having looked at a few Youtube videos, i think that is the issue!
Sorry, it is the fist time i am dealing with compression fittings. learning something every day with this car!

Do you know how was the original set up? copper or rubber line?

Thanks!
Edmondo

Hello all!
I reveved some new parts from Burlen and installed them yesterday ( new float chambers needle valve, float chamber gaskets etc..).
When I reconnected the fuel line i found a very bad leak! it is at the frst carburetor joint, where the copper pipe comes from the pump.
I had disconnected this joint before, and it had never leaked.
I am missing a rubber seal? or it should be just the nut and the brass ferrule?
I have noticed the brass ferrule moves around on the copper pipe. is it normal? Should it move or not?
Do you have any suggestion for stopping this leak? Should i change this pipe?
Thanks!!!
Eddie

https://www.e-metal.it/prodotti/barra-tonda-alluminio-4-mm/

The bar i am using.

Eddie