Messages

This is a good point you make here Graham. I ignore how the rev counter works exactly, but I can say that I did push the engine to a shade below an indicated 6000 rpm at a few occasions and thankfully it responded much better than what I would expect from a healthy normally-aspirated 2L petrol engine running at just 3000 rpm. I have made sure that there was no turbo or compressor in the engine bay.
   
   Under full load, the howl of the engine suddenly changes to an aggressive bark at 5000 rpm with a definitive bump in acceleration, and if I look at the specs of the D2 engine running the Sports camshaft, 5000 rpm corresponds to peak torque rpm, so I would imagine that the rev counter works more precisely where it matters most? What I can observe though would for sure be a bit strange if it's supposed to work in a linear manner.
   
   I tested the timing light on a spare car that runs fuel injection, and the rev counter, the engine speed indicated through the ECU software and the timing light registered all three the same engine speed, so at this point I am not sure the timing light could be any faulty.

Well, after the Uni-Syn synchronizer I purchased another useful tool in the shape of a digital timing light. I could not understand why the engine would begin to stumble when I tried to lower idle speed to below 1000 rpm, but that was just because 1000 rpm on the rev counter was actually 500 rpm as registered by the timing light... another question answered.
   
   The timing light also allowed me to spot a little bit of point bounce while gradually increasing engine speed, up to only 2000 rpm. Is point bounce a common occurrence with the standard Lucas distributor? My car has not run much since the distributor was rebuilt and the engine runs pretty well I would say.

It turned out the high idle speed was caused by excessive play in two throttle spindles. The corresponding volume screws were out way more than on the tight spindle to get the same plug colour, confirming how more much air was being aspirated through the loose spindles.
   Now with rebushed throttle housings and 3 nicely tight spindles I have been able to reduce idle speed from 1300 rpm to 1000 rpm when hot, and 700 rpm with the timing knob fully out (full retard). By then the engine stumbles a little bit but runs more or less fine. The Bristol manual mentions an idle speed when hot of 800 rpm, which is quite a bit lower than 1000 rpm?
   Do other folks on here with a 100D2 engine run theirs at the same idle speed or lower?

Interesting, thanks for the link.

quote:Originally posted by terlingua11
   
Yes, I have tried all the usual guys here in the States. They all want to sell me the reproduction gauges with the incorrect faces.

   
   Could it not be possible to redo just the faces?
   
   I have heard of people who redo them for other brands, to keep the period look but with the reliability of a new unit.
   Surely someone on here may be good enough with a computer to model the original Smiths faces and print a few?
   
   Am I the only one who could not sleep with a "Made in UK" gauge instead of the original "Made in England"? ;)

quote:Originally posted by 59 Aceca
   
John,
   
   Here are the jpgs of the drawings you did on the brake adjuster and brake bleeder.
   
   

   
   Hello,
   
   Any chance to see again the drawing for the brake bleeder?
   It seems that the picture is no longer hosted on Photobucket.
   
   Thanks.

Hello,
   
   Thank you for the information. I heard of Wizard Cooling in the past but ignored they made a replacement radiator for the Greyhound.
   As I am in mainland Europe though I am not interested in ordering from the US at the moment as we get murdered with import taxes.
   Before anything it would be interesting to know the weight gain over the stock rad.

On a more modern car I experienced a 200 mile trek home driving with the spare wheel on the rear axle. With quite a lot of power on tap and the opposing tyre being more than twice as wide, arguing with snowy roundabouts took a certain amount of commitment to avoid any disaster.
   While this context was a bit extreme, I do not imagine anyone risking driving their MkIV in any spirited manner in the knowledge they have different sizes of tyres on the rear axle.
   
   What type of LSD does the MkIV typically use? Not a Torsen I would hope?

Hello,
   
   If the rear tyres on a MKIV are wider than the fronts and if both axles have the same width with the wheels removed, then CR may be higher than CF to give a resulting wider rear axle with wheels mounted.
   DR is most likely lower than DF with the purpose of avoiding excessive tangential load on the rear wheel bearings while allowing for a wider (outer) rim, thus a wider tyre.

Interesting pictures, thanks.
   
   Should the brake hoses be attached to the springs? Will have to check on mine where (if??) they are attached...

quote:Originally posted by rsk289
   
Austin Healeys (and no doubt some others) used this type of adjustable steering wheel (although with plastic rim and sprung spokes).  it might be worth checking if any parts can be cross-referenced as the Healey wheels are remanufactured, e.g. AH Spares.
   

   
   The nut available from AH Spares looks quite a bit different though, but it might be functional.
   
   
   
   https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/Steering/BOSS-adjcollar-type.aspx

Pleased to say the Uni-Syn did its due. The airflow at tickover is so low that the adjuster on the synchronizer needs to be almost completely close otherwise the floater in the gauge won't take off.
   
   Thanks again everyone for your helpful input.
   
   By the way, which engine speed at tickover is everyone looking at with their Bristol engine?
   Reason for asking is that mine reads "high" on the rev counter (about 1200 rpm), but the engine does not sound like it is running that high. I have not been able to read on a recommended idle speed in the owner's manual. I also wonder if the calibration of my rev counter could be slightly off.

Muffin, thank you very much for your help. I am not in the UK unfortunately otherwise I would have taken you up on your kind offer.
   
   I just ordered a new Edelbrock Uni-Syn synchronizer. It seems to be a copy of the original MotoMeter Synchro-Test a friend uses and originally recommended to me. I did not feel comfortable ordering a used Crypton Synchro Check as the ones that occasionnaly pop up on ebay seem to have had a life, understandably. Looking forward to using it on the Solex and on the SU carbs of my other vintage British car.

Hello Muffin,
   
   Yes, I duly took note that the spacer blocks could be drilled to receive proper vacuum ports fittings. However I feel a bit precious with the car and would feel better without drilling anything, unless it is absolutely needed.
   
   What carbs did you have on your Mini?

Here is a picture of my center carb. I blew inside the port with a small pipe but as the picture suggests it is definitely plugged. All three carbs are the same. Just thought I would share.