Messages

If the radiator cap doesn't work then I understand the function of the header tank.
A pressurised header tank sits at the highest point in the cooling system to maintain
the coolant level and acts as an air bleed for the cooling system.
An expansion tank is connected to the filler neck vent tube. It's purpose is to contain
expanded hot coolant forced past the pressure cap whilst the engine is running. Upon
cooling down the coolant is drawn back into the radiator via the same route.

Hi Peter,

That looks like a header tank rather than an expansion tank. Can I ask why you're fitting one?

Regards, Luke.

Hello Nigel,

Heaters were certainly an option from quite early on but I don't have a date.
The car that I took the pattern from was an early 1957 car. I do still have a pair
of casting for the early vents. If you PM me your email I'll send you some photos.
As I said back in 2017 the vents are in three parts but I didn't reproduce the duct
to vent rubber section, so you'll have to fabricate something up there. It's an ideal
project for 3d printing in a suitable plastic.

The screen washer was also an option with the flat screen and a single central washer
with a double nozzle seems to have been the works normal fitment. The washer bottle and jet
was usually a period glass Lucas Screenjet unit.

Regards Luke.

They look very nice quality and close to the original style of hose.
Good find!

Hi Paul,

Billy Bellinger of https://jb-engineering.co.uk/ has made these in the past for his
rengineered AC Moss gearboxes. I don't know if they'll only work with his new internals though,
or even if he'll be prepared to sell them separately.

Regards Luke.

The differential filler plug has a dipstick but if you fill it according to the marks on this it will be over
the 3 pint capacity and will tend to blow oil out of the breather.
This is due to the ENV differential unit being a generic part normally fitted to a banjo style
axle casing. It does not take in to account that the design of the AC differential housing will
allow for a greater quantity of oil inside.

The DOT4 fluid is fine for both clutch  and braking systems.

I'm afraid that I'm unfamiliar with both the Motul and Valvoline oils but
they are both large oil companies that I'm sure produce quality oils.

Castrol Classic XL 20W50 is a perfectly good choice for the AC engine.
Also, the Castrol Classic 30W oil will be fine for the gearbox.

EP90 oil is correct for the differential but don't overfill it.
The handbook gives the capacity of 3 pints (1.7 liters).

For the cooling system an antifreeze/water mix of at least 30/70 percent will
work unless your planning a trip to Alaska this winter. ;D

Waterless coolants such as Evans Classic cool are also an option but the cooling
system will need to be completely drained of all water based coolant, before refilling
with waterless coolant. AEX 31 in Sweden has been running his car on Evans for the
last couple of years without any issues.

Regards, Luke.

The furflex seal that Martrim in the UK sell is approximately 14mm diameter, which is
the same size as the original 9/16" diameter seal. As the furflex is hollow it will relatively
easily compress to about half its diameter, to around 8mm thick.
https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/tack-on-furflex.php

The black seal on the door in the first photo is not original.
The red car with the grey interior and the green car are as original.
The seals on an Aceca are far from any modern car level of sealing,
especially on the rear hatch but then it would be a mistake to compare
most hand made cars from this era to any later production cars.

The doors don't have any piping in this position originally.
The Furflex door seal is fixed in the door aperture only, not on the door.

Regards, Luke.

I still have a couple of original alloy spare wheel nuts.
PM me if your interested.

Regards, Luke.

The free camber of the springs as given in the Ace/Aceca handbook, is measured from the center of the spring eye
to the bottom of the main leaf. This is shown as "C" in the MG diagram.

The springs should be re-arched when hot, quenched and then tempered during a second controlled heating.

Regards, Luke.

I've seen original "Copiglia" type bands (as in your photo) used as well as simple clamping bands,
with a screw and square nut but I haven't seen any with the wire clip. There's no reason not
to use them though.

The original Aceca heater ducts were made from a kind of rubberised canvas material.
The problem today is finding appropriate looking ducting in the correct diameter.
This type is available in the small and large sizes for the Aceca heater, it's just a pity
that the reinforcing thread isn't black.
[url]https://www.carbuilder.com/us/83mm-3-14-black-silicone-duct-hose/url]

That bracket is for the two part jack handle.